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Unread 11-02-2010, 10:43 PM   #141
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

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Originally Posted by Farmbuggy View Post
Its been working great! I dint know that but it convinces me to do a plexi glass type thing under and around the battry compartment to aid in keepin any splashing from gettin the electronics.
Protecting the PB-6 is good but don't seal up the battery compartment to tight, they need air and venting.
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Unread 11-02-2010, 10:57 PM   #142
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

10-4 on that thought about extra venting to
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Unread 03-30-2011, 09:33 PM   #143
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

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Originally Posted by impalass88 View Post
Club Car also has a lawsuit against Trojan for problems caused by their batteries.
I keep hearing that, or see people posting that, but can't find it in a google search.

Have you got any details? How about a link to a story about it?
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Unread 03-31-2011, 02:52 PM   #144
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

trojan makes 12 volt batteries and they use 4 of them in newer club carts. You save 150 pounds, have more room for goodies, etc. I used the extra space to mount a 2500 watt APC backup ac supply- great for running a blender, etc. On the other side I mounted two 2ft long 6 inch plastic pipe I use for my air horn tank. Mounted a 4 foot long Kenworth horn on roof and use a 12 volt air valve. By GOD I am heard when a car pulls out. Also mounted a cheap 12 volt compressor to keep up air supply. Just add a pump relay from a junk compressor to turn compressor on and off.
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Unread 04-05-2011, 08:36 PM   #145
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

If your rod isnt pulling the pb6 all of the way back it could still be ok. Check it with a dvm and see what ohm you hit. I have messed with a couple and most of them hit 5k ohms at about 3/4 to 7/8 throttle.
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Unread 05-09-2017, 02:42 PM   #146
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

Quick question. My 1989 36v cushman titan uses a 12v solenoid, driven at 18v as the main contractor. Can I use this solenoid when I upgrade to 48v or should I find a heavy duty 12v solenoid? Everyone talks about upgrading to a 48v solenoid but that means the solenoid is switched on with 48v, correct? I don't want to run 48v thru my micro switches if I don't have to.
Thanks for any help!
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Unread 05-09-2017, 03:12 PM   #147
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

I used the 48v 400 Amp Super Duty Solenoid from Scotty B at Carts Unlimited when I converted my cart to 48v five years ago. Has run perfectly.

You aren't running the 48v through your microswitches; someone correct me if I'm wrong, but all the lower voltage input wires hook up to the small terminals on the solenoid. They act as a on/off gate for the fatty high amp / high voltage cables hooked to the big terminals on the solenoid.

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/solenoids.html
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Unread 05-09-2017, 05:32 PM   #148
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

That's what I thought, but the document you linked to says 48v on the small terminals- I'm guessing 48 v but low amperage on the small terminals and 48v but high amperage on the big terminals. That's also what the guy at golfcartparts said. My original OEM solenoid is 12 volts but handles 36v from the battery pack. I guess that's how they used to do it?
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Unread 05-25-2017, 08:48 PM   #149
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Default Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

Let's start with some basics. A 48-volt system should use ALL 48-volt components. Motor, Solenoid, 4 each 12-volt batteries wired in series or 6 each 8-volt batteries wired in series, and Controller. You must use a 48-volt controller which matches the throttle input you are going to use. BEWARE>> some throttle outputs are 0-5k, 5k-0, or in the case of newer EZ-GO carts an induction output. Wiring one up wrong can cause serious damage and injury. ALWAYS keep the rear wheels off the ground on jack stands. Anything else is dangerous...

The 8-volt batteries are the same physical size as 6-volt batteries. If room and weight are not an issue, go with the 8-volt batteries as they will supply amps for a longer period. The standard output of an 8-volt battery is 56 amps for 127 minutes. 12-volt battery specs are for 57 amps, but for a shorter time period. Use Trojan spec sheets for exact numbers. To further complicate the issue, there are different model Trojan of the same voltage and size. More amps and time equal more cost.

The amperage drawn by the solenoid control wiring to the small posts is very small and in no way can harm micro switches. Think of a solenoid as a BIG switch. The small terminals turn on a coil (magnet) which connects the the 2 big terminals with a copper busbar inside. Next, you should address reading the motor speed and foot pedal to determine ReGen properties. Most high-speed motors do not offer ReGen.

How about High pedal disable in case someone turns the switch on with the pedal all the way down. Sounds crazy, but I have installed new fronts and steering because this happened.

If you go the 8-volt battery route, how will you power the lights. The best method for either 8 or 12-volt batteries is to use a voltage reducer which lowers the 48 volts to a usable 12 volts. Using 2 each 8-volt batteries will burn up bulbs. A 10% increase over 13.6 volts will cut the bulb life in half. Just trust me on this, I am a Certified Reliability Engineer and have studied bulb life in hundreds of applications.

Be safe, have fun, and good luck with your build.

Last edited by hbondurant; 05-25-2017 at 08:54 PM.. Reason: addition, clarification
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Unread 05-26-2017, 12:31 AM   #150
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Red face Re: getting ready to start 36v to 48v conv????

Thanks for the info! Definitely good to know it's ok running 48v thru the micro switches.

I'm new to carts and to make it worse I have an '89 cushman titan, which seems to have broken all the rules! I use it for BurningMan and parades, but it isn't a normal golf cart.

While it's 36v, it uses a tap off the 3rd 6v battery supplying 18v to all the 12v lites and a 12v solenoid (i know, but it's OEM and the way it was made.). The only upgrade was a previous owner replaced the resistor controller with an old electronic controller.

While its a tank (think moving planes) all my wire connectors are corroded.
Since my motor and controller are rated 36/48v I'm upgrading it to 48v. Outside of upgrading the solenoid to 48v and running a 48v wire to the solenoid control terminal, I need to split all my wiring for lights to a separate 12v circuit using a 48-12v converter. To make it crazier the existing wiring is all daisy chained from one component to the next so I need to split it all out!

Any advice is welcome, but I'm gradually being forced to be an expert on antique carts!
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