Club Car Electrical Trouble Shoot Help Needed

motox85

First cart, 1997 Club Car 36V. No power to motor. Ignition switch good, F & R micro switch also good. Have 36V power to one side of what appears to be a solenoid that applies power to the potentiometer. There also was initially 36V to the lower contacts at the base which I am assuming are the controlling side of the solenoid when the pedal was pressed but still no power to the outlet side of the solenoid which leads me to believe that the solenoid is bad.

Then while troubleshooting shorted the lead to the micro switch in the potentiometer and now no longer have power thru the mirco switch in the potentiometer so must have shorted it out.

So... it looks like both, the solenoid and the micro switch located inside the potentiometer need to be replaced. Where can I find these two parts?

How does this solenoid work, does it flow power thru after control voltage is applied or without?

How does power flow for reverse?

BGW

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GLEEMO

control voltage applied (U can hear the solinoid close)
Try jumping across the large leads on solinoud (cart on jack stands)
after U get the micro sw replaced !

Look at site sponsers for parts http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php

Fishing Dude

Micro can be gotten at Radio Shack.

motox85

I have the solenoid removed and when power applied nothing, no click, no power, nothing so I think it is safe to assume it is no good.

I have to locate a mirro today to test the rest.

GLEEMO

Good Job moto

motox85

OK, changed the solenoid and the micro switch and power is now going thru. When the peddle is pressed I have 27V in and about 14V out of the solenoid.

Checked the batteries and getting a reading of 24V even after charging twice to what the charger says is full ????? I will look into this more today.

Bought new Trojan batteries 8/08 and the cart has sat in the race trailer unused ever since with periodic charging maybe every 3 months or so. Ideas??

motox85

Ok, rechecked the batteries and they show 27.5 after going thru another charging cycle and the cart seems to want to move. Its still tied down in the race trailer and raining so later after it quits I'll try to see if it will actually run.

I'm concerned that the batteries may need to be shock or high charged (for lack of a better term) like I do every few months to our diesel pusher to rejuvenate the 6V house batteries in it.

That got me to thinking to substitute the the cart batteries into the Transporter and charge them with that charger/inverter thru a high charge cycle buts thats a lot of work to remove and replace batteries.

However, why can't I pull the golf cart along side the Transporter and either hook the 6V cart batteries up to the 6VTransporter batteries and charge them all as in 1 large bank of batteries or disconnect the 6V Transporter batteries, but leave them in the Transporter, and simply connect the Transporter charger/inverter directly to the 6V cart batteries and charge them thru a high charge cycle.

What do you guys think? What do I need to consider when doing this hook-up?

How can I tell how old the batteries in the cart are?

GLEEMO

Check Voltage across each battery to insure there is not just 1 bad battery.
charge 1 at a time as needed or 2 at a time in series with a 12 Volt car charger.
Make sure distilled water is 1/4" to 1/2" above plates .
check each hour to insure batteries are not getting 2 hot. If so rest them for 1 hour check again
and charge as needed.

Here is a battery charge chart http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-readings.html

If U cant get batteries up to between 90-100% time to buy new ones.

motox85

OK, I'll try that. I'll have to get or find a big 12V car charger as we do not have one in the trailer but do at the shop in Florida but will not be there for several months.

When checking V's with the batteries still connected in the cart, 2 batteries are around 5.8 and at several others are around 3.5 which seems odd being that the charger shows full charging and turns off.

That's why my thoughts were that the charger was not high charging but more trickle charging. What I think I need to do is high charge the batteries to see if they come to life.

I also thought that I could check the SG of the batteries as well today and see what that shows.

GLEEMO

OK so what this is telling U is the weaker ones will probably never come back .
I have a 12 Volt charger which has 2 amp trickle charge, 10 amp normal charge
and 25 amp boost which is used like a boost or jump to start truck immediately.
Use the lowest setting passable 2 amp if U have one this will de-sulfate the plates, and
heat the batteries and charger less.
After a few hours of charging turn charger off, wait 30min to 1 hr. check again.
If batteries show the same Voltage as when U started , it's fried.
U can confirm this with a hydrometer checking each cell !
Good luck !

PS U are not going to shock a led acid battery back to life.