2000 48V Club Car No go, no click

PatrickDame

Howdy, I'm new and appreciate any help.

I've been working on a 2000 Club Car 48v with the following symptoms:

1. Car is on blocks and will not turn wheels regardless of FNR switch position.
2. I have 48+ volts on the right post of the main solenoid.
3. Solenoid will not engage with completing the key circuit or depressing the accelerator.
4. FNR switch does have continuity.
5. Potentiometer does have continuity.
6. Run/Tow switch has continuity and is in the run position.
7. Solenoid will engage if control wires (blue and blue/white) are jumped from main terminals.
8. Upon jumping, both armature leads exiting the controller show 48v+.
9. No voltage appears on field leads before or after jumping regardless of FNR position or pressing accelerator.
10. Upon jumping, all control wires show 30v when FNR switch is in neutral.
11. Upon selecting either F or R, all control voltages drop to 10v.
12. The wheels will turn in either direction if I jump out the motor from main terminals.
13. There is 48V+ on the blue wire leaving the OBC to the controller.
14. I have replaced the controller and notice no changes.

This would lead me to believe I received a bad controller. I welcome any ideas. Thanks.

BGW

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GLEEMO

Have you tried jumping the solenoid since you replaced the controller ?

PatrickDame

Yes and I see the same readings I noticed before the replacing of the controller.

scottyb

10. Upon jumping, all control wires show 30v when FNR switch is in neutral.
11. Upon selecting either F or R, all control voltages drop to 10v.


This concerns me .......

davet

Rick is this a regen cart? 2 solenoids or 1,what kind of controller was the new one?did the instructions require to move any wire or make any mods at all ?Dave

PatrickDame

2 solenoids. From what I understand, the one on the side where the negative terminal enters the controller is part of the dynamic braking system. The controller was replaced with a GE unit of the same serial and model numbers. No special instructions (or any instructions at all for that matter) were included with the unit. I hooked it up in the same manner of the old unit.

I have not attempted to reboot the OBC since replacing the new controller, do you know if this should be necessary?