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Unread 11-08-2009, 09:48 AM   #11
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

Correction, I get 12.6V and 11.1V at the two terminals with or without the key on.
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Unread 11-08-2009, 09:51 AM   #12
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

are U putting the 2 test leads on the solenoid? Cuz that is not the way to test it..... You simply want to see if 38v is coming to 1 side and then when activated power is coming out. Like a simple continuity test
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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:03 AM   #13
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

Boy, sometimes I wonder about myself.

I have 38.1 and 36.5 at both large terminals. (was not using nbr 6 bat ground on previous check)

Really appreciate your time and assistance.
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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:08 AM   #14
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
are U putting the 2 test leads on the solenoid? Cuz that is not the way to test it..... You simply want to see if 38v is coming to 1 side and then when activated power is coming out. Like a simple continuity test
What I did, red lead to the incoming side of the solenoid and the black lead to the nbr 6 bat neg, then the red lead to the yellow side of the solenoid. I did not turn the key on or press the go pedal. There is 38V to the solenoid and 36 from.
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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:11 AM   #15
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

Sometimes we assume too much also so you have 36+v to the controller? I assume the solenoid is clicking? I suspect an intermittent connection at the F&R . Put the cart rear up on jacks and slam that f&r a few times and wiggle it while in gear...any movement?
If solenoid is not clicking it is the acvtivation circuit....
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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:13 AM   #16
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

HIt refresh and re- read my last edited post
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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:29 AM   #17
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

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HIt refresh and re- read my last edited post
The solenoid is not clicking.
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Unread 11-08-2009, 11:11 AM   #18
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

I did as suggested, banged the F/R switch numerous times, still nothing, like it was dead.

I just checked all of the large leads to the F/R switch, Red,
Blue (2) and white with the key switch jumped, all show 36 to 38V
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Unread 11-08-2009, 12:13 PM   #19
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

The small terminals on the solenoid are for the activation circut. It needs one positive and one negitive 36v at the small posts to activate. then it will click. then you will have power going to the controller etc. This could be as simple as a bad microswitch at the F&R
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Unread 11-08-2009, 02:12 PM   #20
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Default Re: Problems changing Solenoid

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Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
The small terminals on the solenoid are for the activation circut. It needs one positive and one negitive 36v at the small posts to activate. then it will click. then you will have power going to the controller etc. This could be as simple as a bad microswitch at the F&R
Scotty, I am baffled, the two small terminals I will call 1 and 2..
1. has a small red wire and a small white with black stripe
2. has a small yellow wire


Key off, Red lead to Positive Battery black lead to nbr 1 terminal I read 38.2V
Same thing for nbr 2, 38.2V

The large terminals read 38.2V on the one side and 36.1 on the other.

The solenoid does not click.

When I bang on the F/R switch with the key on, the reverse buzzer sounds. It has not been working for some time but I had not realized or missed it.

Help
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