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Unread 11-13-2009, 10:55 AM   #1
Not Yet Wild
Taylor-Dunn
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Default Motor Wiring burning problems

Hi Everyone,
Working on a CC Carryall VI 48V with the MCOR accelerator package.
Complaint was the cart is not working. Checking out the cart has the white #4 cable, motor to the F/R switch burned off. I took off the F/R and the lower terminal post and nut are black, copper bar overheated and bakelite below is melted.

Ok I can install a new F/R, make new connections. BUT also at the F/R the blue and the black cables have all been extended to compensate for previous over heating problems. These cables go to the motor so it makes me think that there are hidden motor problems. Further the battery pack has 2 melted/replaced terminals from previous over heating problems.

I don't want to do a simple replacement and have the whole thing go poof when I turn it on the first time.
How do I test the motor, what should the ohms be for this system?
None of the motor cable connection bolts look like they have been hot.

With the old GE motors in Taylor Dunns, I would use compressed air and blow out the motor, removing carbon and dirt. These newer CC motors are closed, do they ever need a similar cleaning?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Phil
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Unread 11-14-2009, 03:12 AM   #2
nimda
Club Car
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,912
Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

They shouldn't need cleaning but it doesn't hurt to blow out the brush dust. You could unbolt the motor and blow most of the dust out but I doubt brush dust is the problem. Take a volt meter and check for continuity between the posts and motor housing. There shouldn't be any....(I have seen brush dust cause minute ohms between terminal and housing but thats not to big a problem)

99% of the time a cable or terminal overheating is going to be caused from a bad connection somewhere. Make sure they are all good, clean and tight.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 08:48 AM   #3
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Location: Southern California
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Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

A CarryallVI has a v. big bed on the rear. It is quite possible that someone has been toting some v. heavy loads with the cart. I think you need to replace all of the battery cables with #4 ga. welding cable to help eliminate the cable heating problem after you test all the batteries and confirm that the power supply is not low..... Motors are almost bullet proof. Anything short of perfect will produce heat.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 08:56 AM   #4
nimda
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Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

He has 4 gauge cables scot, curiously though they are white cables. Not welding cables. I've never seen white cable except for some kinda home wiring....
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Unread 11-14-2009, 10:30 AM   #5
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Taylor-Dunn
 
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Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

This Carryall VI has colored 4g cables from the motor to the F/R. White, Blue, Black or so it appears. I have traced the White through it's path. The blue and black seem to follow the same path, but I am not looking at the wiring diagram.
I remember a green cable that I fixed before. So 5 or 6 burned, overheated, melted terminals seem to me to be odd. I picked up the F/R and will ck ohms motor terminals to case before I do anything else.

Lets discuss poor cable connections, please.
Can one bad connection cause over heating in another location in the system?
Typically I see the connections at the battery pack are the worst due to acid mist, overfilled batts and replaced cables. This cart has ugly connections (old crimped only) at the battery pack. Typically the owners just want to get the cart back in service and not to fix the problems. So in a month or so I get called back. When I service a battery pack, I put in all new battery to battery cables, terminals, tinned pressed and soldered, heat shrink sealed and wirebrush the batt terminals, lock washers, new nuts, proper torque. then I replace the pack + & - terminals. This has reduced call backs, but when a cable has gotten hot enough to melt off a connection is the cable still usable when the end 3 or so inches is removed and a new connector is pressed and soldered?

Phil
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Unread 11-14-2009, 07:30 PM   #6
nimda
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Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

I have seen a bad connection in one area cause problems in another. Its not very common but it does happen. If you cut the burnt part of the cable off you can re-use it. I'd definately get a diagram and make sure they are right.
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Unread 11-16-2009, 11:49 PM   #7
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Taylor-Dunn
 
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Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

Hi Everybody,
The Club Car Carryall VI, has colored #4 cables, from motor to F/R and elsewhere, S1 looks pink??, S2 Blue, A1 green, A2 white.
Ohms
S1 to S2 00.6 ohms
S1 or S2 to ground - Motor Case or Cart Frame no conductivity.
A1 to A2 00.7 ohms
A1 or A2 to ground - Motor Case or Cart Frame no conductivity.

Plan is to clean the battery case tops, extend the cables, using tinned cable couplers and #4 cables, crimped and soldered together, sealed with heatshrink tubing. Attach to new F/R and move the microswitch wires to the new microswitches.
Then remove all the battery pack cables, wire brush the battery post contact bases, replace with new connectors and #4 cables, tinned, crimped, soldered, heat shrink ends, attach with new nuts and lock washers, torque the nuts, spray seal battery terminals.

Phil
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Unread 11-21-2009, 09:56 AM   #8
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Taylor-Dunn
 
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Location: Southern California
Posts: 13
Default Re: Motor Wiring burning problems

Hi Everyone,
To answer a previous question Battery Pack voltage 50.7V after a week off the charger.

Update on repair status, Completed, Finished. It works.
The Club Car Carryall VI (48 volt system) had over time, burnt and someone extended 3 of the 4 connecting cables close to the F/R switch, and 3 of the batteries needed posts replaced. All of the battery to battery cables were crimp cables. One was ok, four were junk. Taking off the nuts was difficult, they were very tight. Two posts were slightly melted and I abandoned my attempt to loosen the nuts and just replaced the posts. The third previously replaced post unthreaded from the lead, but there was corrosion and a poor connection there which I cleaned up.
The big question is why or what is the cause of the problem?

So a battery pack has 12 Cable connections, The motor 4, the F/R 4, the Solenoid 2, The speed control 2 or more so 24 or more cable connections. Each connection adds its resistance to the circuit and as the connections deteriorate over time, with exposure to acid misting at the batteries, moisture at the motor, dirt, dust, operation heating under the seat at the F/R, solenoid, and speed control, the connections with the most resistance get hot and fail. So probably after a few years ALL the cable connections need to be looked at and possibly replaced.

How do you ohm these circuits to do a practical test of resistance for the whole system? Can it be done with a volt ohm meter or does one need a Meggher?

Looking at the motor connections, the outer nuts are rusty is that just another possibly high resistance connection that needs to be cleaned up?
Phil
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