Frustrating Problem!! <follow-up>

Doc

Well, here it is nearly 8 months later & I'm still in the same boat..here's a brief overview:
Sometime in May/June '09 I jump into my '00 Carryall 48V cart. No Go.
Checked all batteries & connections & found the blue wire on the F/R switch is barely hanging on.
Cleaned it up & re-crimped it-tightened it down and looked good to go!
Still No Go.
Checked and tightened all other connections, treated them w/Noalox and replaced the controller on advise from an seasoned expert.
Still No Go.
Jumped out the solenoid (big lug to big lug) with a 4ga. wire.
Cart ran.
Replaced solenoid and the diode & resister with all new.
No Go.
Jumped the 48V motor w/a 12V source. Motor ran, albeit slowly (remember it was jumped with only 12 volts)
Tested all batteries-all read 8.2 to 8.4 volts.
I am at my wits end...I keep dumping $$ into this cart and still nothing.
Other than to keep replacing parts, (the OBC, Wiper switch and F/R switch have yet to be replaced) is ther any other advice? This is killing me!!
Doc

BGW

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pansser

try putting 12V to the "engage" wire on the solinoid ensure the other side is grounded. if you jumped the sol and it ran, that says its either the sol or power to the coil on the sol. if you are getting power to the coil try grounding the other side to neg on the batt pack. it has to be one or the other. since you already replaced the sol. it sounds like either no power to the solenoid coil (bad wire or key switch) or you lost grd to the other side of the coil.

pansser

lets look at the circuit: 12v from the batt pack or transformer, through a fuse to the key switch, turn on the key and it sends 12v to the coil on the solenoid to engage the sol and transfer power to the controller. the 12v must pass through the coil ( key on)and thence to ground(not the chassis) so start at the coil and check for 12v if there provide grd to the coil. if missing check for power to the key swt. if there bad swt or wire to coil if not check fuse if good check output from 12v source.