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Old 03-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #1
Not Yet Wild
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Default (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

I'm new at changing brakes on my club car. I did it a few weeks ago and all seems to be working well. I did a lot of reading on this forum and searching the internet to try and learn how to do it on my own. What follows is my documentation for the next time I have to do it in case I forget. I'm posting them here for the next new guy, and to get feedback on what I may have done wrong or the hard way.

A caution to fellow first-time do-it-yourselfers... I knocked the cart of the jack and it smacked me in the head- I was very lucky to not crush a hand or arm or worse. So take seriously the safety warnings and if anybody has comments on how to do it more safely I'm all ears.

(prodecures following)
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #2
Not Yet Wild
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

Changing Self adjusting Club Car Brakes v1.0
Documented using a CC 2003 I.Q. 48V Regen


Pre Purchase:
1) Replacement brake shoes (4 shoes - two 17L and two 17T)
2) A small packet of brake grease (auto store)
3) A can of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner (auto store)

Tools:
Bucket for cleaning parts / catching carburetor cleaner
worklight
jack
lug wrench
chocks/blocks
small sloted screwsdriver
Assorted wide tip slotted screwdriver (including one that is very short)
hammer
pliers or small vise grips
??? inch wrench


Step 1 - Secure Cart
1) Release parking brake and loosen lugs on the side you've choosen to work on. Normally you'd have the brakes on, but in this case, you need the brakes off to assist removing the brake hubs.
2) Jack up the cart - Once raised, place chocks under both sides of wheels opposite the jack
3) Jack the cart up on one side.
3) Place a spare tire under the raised side in case the cart slips off the jack it will land on the tire.
4) Place something solid and heavy, like another tire (see step 2) under the rear suspension spring or rear bumper to further prevent the cart falling on you.

Step 2 - Remove tire
Fully remove lug nuts and place the tire under the rear suspension spring (or if you don't have a spare place it under the middle of the lifted side - this is another safety measure to prevent the cart from falling complete to the floor should it be knocked off the jack.

Step 3 - disconnect brake cable.
Around the back side of the brake assembly find the brake cable that is attached to a metal arm by a pin and cotter pin.
1) Remove the cotter pin.
2) Remove the pin holding the cable to the arm.
3) Remove the rubber boot located over the arm
4) loosen but do not remove the nut that keeps the arm assembly in tension.


Step 4 - Remove the brake hub.
The brake hub is only held in place by the lug nuts. You will not need to remove any other bolts/nuts/screws to get the hub off. Do not try and remove the 4 screws on the rear of the brake housing (you can't and they have nothing to do with the hub).

Best case scenario the hub will just lift off at this point. The hub should at least wiggle. Worst case -the hub will not move at all or only spin. This is usually caused by the brake pads being self adjusted to the maximum outward position which can be a slightly larger circumfrence than the inside lip of the hub.

If the hub does not slip off, you'll need a plan of action to remove it:

Plan A: you'll need to use a short flat-head screw driver and hammer to drive it off using a series of whacks on opposite sides of the hub. (usually the 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions)
1) give a few good whacks around the hub to free up anything that may be stuck.
2) Put the screwdriver in the groove created by the brake hub and the housing. Hammer several times. Have an assistant Keep tension on the hub whenever possible so that it does not slip back into resting position. Early on you might be able to make headway by twisting a large flat head screwdriver in the seam and shift the hub forward a bit.
3) Hammer / driver on the opposite side of the hub.
4) Repeat until the hub comes off. Progress is usually in 1/16 or 1/32 increments on each side until the hub is knocked off.
5) dump the brake dust out of the hub and set it aside.

Plan B: Some forum members have recommend heating the hub to expand it
Plan C: Some forum posts suggest use a hub-puller.

Step 5 - Remove lower brake spring
1) With pliers or vise-grips pull the long end of the smaller (lower) spring out of the rear hole of the brake pad.
2) Work the spring free from the hole in the front brake pad and set the spring asside.

Step 6 - Remove 2 brake clips
Each brake has a single clip holding it in place. The clips are at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions and look like a frito bent into a u shape. The outward edge of the clip has a slot cut into it and a pair of parallel ridges on either side of the slot. Note the flat head pin that passes throught the back of the clip and whose flat head rests in the ridges.

1) Place a small flat-head screwdriver into one of the ridges and push straight into the clip. This will release tension on the pin so that it can spin.
2) The head of the pin is accessible from behind the brake housing. With the clip properly compressed, you should able to spin it 90 degrees so that the clip can pass over the flat-head of the pin.
3) Release pressure on the clip and allow the clip to rise past the head of the pin. This frees the brake pad from is location it may want to pop forward so watch your fingers.
4) The clip and pin can be removed and set aside for now.
5) Remove the other clip holding in the second brake shoe.

Step 7 - Remove the brake pads
Even with the large spring left holding the pads together you can lift them out together. You want to make careful note of how the brake pads come out. on the Club Car 2003 the front and rear pads are different sizes and each pad has its own special orientation. Set them aside in the position they came out in

Be careful, the bottom of the forward brake pad sets into the tensioning screw. One the pad is removed, the self tensioning screw (and washer) can fall out. You don't want to lose either.

Step 8 - Collapse self-tension screw and ratchet gear
Over the life of a brake pad the self tensioning screw slowly backs out of the ratchet gear keeping the brake pad in near proximity to the hub for optimal braking. When you reassemble the brakes you want the screw fully screwed back into the ratchet gear (not tight - just loose). Set the screw/ratchet gear aside.

Step 9 - Check the slide of the arm assembly in the brake housing. BE CAREFUL when sliding the assembly - you dont' want to knock the cart off the jack.
If the arm assebly does not easy slide from the front to rear of the cart you may need to remove the parts, clean (carburator cleanrer) and regrease it. As you remove it pay very close attention to how it comes apart so that it can be properly reassembled. Here are the steps:

1) fully remove the nut (this was the tension nut loosened in Step 3-3)
2) From the rear you can now remove the "rear slide" (roughly 1/8 to 3/16 thick and symetrical top to bottom but not front to back) and the rear "rear plate" (very thin metal shield/slide)
3) From the outward side of the brake assembly you can now pull out the ratchet and arm (careful, this can fall into several pieces) - the two pieces of note are the thin metal "inner plate" held into position by four studs on the inside of the brake housing and the "inner slide" (roughly 1/8 to 3/16 thick - akin but not identical (not symetrical front to back or top to bottom) to the "rear slide"
4) Clean the housing that is normally sandwhiched between "rear plate" and "inner plate" with carburator cleaner.
5) Clean the "rear plate" and "inner plate" with carburator cleaner.
6) Clean the "rear slide" and "inner slide" with carburator cleaner.
7) Lubricate the friction surfaces of the "rear plate", "inner plate", "rear slide" and "inner slide" with grease.
8 ) Reassemble and fasten in place with the nut removed in step 9-1. Assembly should slide freely forward and backwards.

Step 10 - Reassembly with new brake shoes
1) insert the ratchet/ with screw turned all the way in (finger tight) with washer into the arm assembly. Be sure to orient ratchet screw slot so that it can receive the new brake shoe
2) Use the large spring to hook the two new shoes together. Use positioning of old brake shoes for positioning of new brake shoes. (Verify but I belive the markings 17L and 17T are the top (one set of letters faces in while the other faces out).
3) insert the new shoes making sure top points and bottom points are resting where they should.
4) install the brake clips (reverse of step 6)
5) Install the small spring. The short hook spring clips onto the forward shoe. Use vice grips or pliers to stretch the spring and hook the long hook end into the rear show.
6) Verify the pads will shift with the forward and backward slide action of the arm.
7) This is a good spot to check for any left over or missed parts and correct
8 ) place the hub over the lug studs and slide it completely into place
9) Adjust the rear tension nut if necessary
10) re-install the rubber boot if removed
11) Insert the pin that connects the brake cable to the arm
12) Insert the cotter pin to secure the pin that connects the brake cable to the arm
13) place the wheel back on the lug studs and secure the wheel with lug nuts

Step 11 - Set the brakes
1) work the brakes 4-5 times (you should hear a ratcheting sound as the self tensioner begins to engage)
2) when no brake applied, made sure tire will spin
3) when brake applied tire should eventually become harder and harder to spin. If you can spin it, repeat steps. If you can no longer spin tire by hand, brakes are nearly tensioned.
4) work the brake 4-5 more times.
5) Remove any tires or solid items you've placed under the cart to prevent it from falling and lower the cart using the jack.
6) fully tighten lug nuts with lug wrench
7) remove the jack stand.

NOTE: There are brake cables that can also be adjusted. Further research is need to document how to do this correctly.

Step 12
1) Repeat the brake changing process for the other side. (repeat Steps 1 - 11 on the other side of the cart)

Step 13 - Test drive
1) If you've not done so yet, jack the cart down.
2) remove all tire chocks
3) test drive cart and braking ability on a level surface at LOW speeds.
4) if braking at low speeds and flat ground works, proceed to more rigorous speeds and inclines.
5) if you hear rubbing or scrapping noises, you have have reassembled something wrong or your brake slides were not cleaned well enough.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:33 PM   #3
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

interesting read but you forgot to say to lube the brake shoe backing plate boss's and the ends of each shoe.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:35 PM   #4
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

......can you give me the short version ?
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

yeah can you BRAKE it down man
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:51 PM   #6
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

You took a lot of time to put this draft together and I think it has merit! One thing that came up on another thread was exactly where the L or T brake shoe went for each side since the L stands for lead and the T stands for trailing yet they are actually in reverse of what one might think if they were familiar with doing automobile brakes. Their exact position and location per left and right backing plate as well as stipulating in your draft to only do ONE SIDE at a time for reference would go a long way!

Since I am assuming that this is or will be used by those that have never done CC brakes before I would bring up the points above and try and use a bit more of the KISS system.

By the way, ScottyB has done so many of these he can do them in his sleep and wilster734 has just completed a brake job himself... so don't take offense to their jabs… it’s all in good fun… I think!!!
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:50 PM   #7
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

yeah i am glad to see someone do all the typing i honestly wish i had something like this to read when i did my brakes. the folks here on the forum were very helpful and having fun with their postings too. i for one applaud you for posting this. and do take some of the advise and revise some of it to make it complete and informative to others who may need help.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:34 PM   #8
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

I knew the length would be poked fun at (heck, I thought it was long!) I don't mind the jabs, I expected it, is all good But the length and content was exactly what I was looking for prior to doing my first brake cart job.

I'll monitor this for awhile and then take a cut at a rewrite once a fair amount of feed back is accumulated.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:44 PM   #9
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by wilster734 View Post
...lube the brake shoe backing plate boss's and the ends of each shoe.
"Brake shoe backing plate boss" - is that the two "seats" that the tops ends of the shoes set in or something differnt altogether?

"Ends of each shoe" - the bits that go into the sets on the top and the bits that go into the ratchet screw (leading) and another seat (trailing)?
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:48 PM   #10
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Default Re: (Draft) Procedure for changing Club Car Self-Tensioning Brakes

it's all good.like i said nice read
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