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Unread 05-10-2010, 12:46 PM   #21
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

If your electronics are all fine then i would look at mechanics maybe some drag some place or worn bearings,dragging brakes.what about the f/r switch are the bussbars in good shape?the 36v will definitely get you more performance,but if there is something in the chain that is weak now you won't gain maximum benefit of the swap.Goodluck
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Unread 05-10-2010, 12:50 PM   #22
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wilster734 View Post
If your electronics are all fine then i would look at mechanics maybe some drag some place or worn bearings,dragging brakes.what about the f/r switch are the bussbars in good shape?the 36v will definitely get you more performance,but if there is something in the chain that is weak now you won't gain maximum benefit of the swap.Goodluck
EXACTLY MY POINT! Thanks!
I don't seem to have any drags. The cart is very easy to push.
I don't have a clue about the f/r switch. I don't know a thing about it. What/how shall I check this? Is it a visual check or what?
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Unread 05-10-2010, 01:00 PM   #23
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

It is visual as far as i can tell you, open up the seat and look at the back side of the f/r switch find the two wires that swing back and forth when you move the handle. when one of the wires is at the top look at the other side and you should see the square or rectantangle contact point. Does it look burnt or corroded in any way? then do the same for the other side and if it has burnt areas or corrosion then you want to get a new one or try and fix the one you have. That is all i got on visual now maybe someone else might be able to tell you how to check electricals on it. Just trying to throw that out there cause i know it is important link in chain.
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Unread 05-10-2010, 01:54 PM   #24
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

Gotcha. Will check the ohm load on the throttle wires and the f/r switch this afternoon.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 02:14 PM   #25
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

Well I got my motor installed last night. Its a Plum Quick Bandit 48 volt. I also have a 400 amp controller. This along with 25 inch tires and brand new T-875 batteries gives me 20mph. I was expecting closer to 24-25mph but I'm not dis-satisfied, just would have liked more.

I still have to check throttle ohm loads, etc and need to set my toe and camber. I also still have the 3 long 6 gauge wires going from motor to f/r switch to change to 2 gauge but they are not getting hot but still plan to upgrade them. I wouldn't think any of these would hinder speed that much if at all unless I discover the throttle has an issue.

Other than what I have described the only way to really get any additional speed now would be to change motor or gears right?, neither of which would be practical to me at this point.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 02:30 PM   #26
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

You say batteries are new right.It takes several charge cycles to get them at 100percent capacity and i am not saying it is going to get you the 24-25mph range,but it will be a difference when they come up to snuff.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 03:58 PM   #27
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

That's what I like to here! I have charged twice now. First discharge was to 75%. I am ready to drain the second charge this evening. I have read that and I am going to do the break-in as per described. I hope to get a bit more.

I already blew the doors off the fastest neighborhood car. Its a gas cart and he even stopped to "turn it up" and burned his little finger doing so. I still outran him. Now there is a fast EZGO at the local course who has a "chip" and it is reported to go 19-20mph according to the GPS. Everyone is ranting and raving about how fast it is. I would like to get to 21-22 so I can be sure to outrun it too and then I can go on to the next project. LOL!!! Gotta love it!
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Unread 05-11-2010, 05:05 PM   #28
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

Read this




NEW BATTERY BREAK-IN PROCEDURE:
Following proper break-in procedure can increase the strength and the useful life span of your new batteries. New batteries are initially about 75% of their full strength. The following procedure will insure they reach their full potential.
The 1st 10 to 20 complete charge/discharge cycles are critical to insure they reach 100%. New batteries should be charged before use and thereafter as follows:
Plug the charger in and leave it alone until charger shuts off by itself. Then drive to discharge the batteries to 75% battery pack capacity (see chart) Plug the cart back in and repeat the charge cycle.......It is very important you let it charge until it is completely done. Repeat this for the first 10 - 20 cycles......by the 12th cycle you will notice a difference in power, speed, and run-time.........I have never had a customer say they have not noticed the increase.
Most importantly, NEVER run the battery pack down below 50% of capacity throughout their entire life. Never leave the batteries in a state of discharge for extended periods of time. Recharge the pack once a week if the cart is sitting idle or in storage. And when in doubt, recharge it.
During the break-in procedure, keep an eye on the water levels. T can take 12 hours or more for the 1st few Charging times. These extended charge cycles may evaporate some of the water. ( use distilled water only )
As the batteries break in you will notice the charge time gets shorter. Eventually going from 12 to 5-6 hours per recharge.
ONCE A MONTH:
Routine maintenance is the 2nd most important thing to insure you get the most use out of your new battery pack. It is critical that you get into a routine of spending 10 - 15 minutes a month to keep the cable connections clean and check the water levels. Proper water level is critical. Dry batteries die quickly.
Keep the Distilled Water level up to the bottom of the fill hole sleeve or a half inch above the lead plates. Do not fill to the top.
Use a hard nylon brush to remove any visible corrosion. Carefully check that all of the cable connections are tight. Loose connections cause arching which will melt the soft lead terminals. Spray-on Battery Terminal Protector is available from the auto parts store and greatly reduces corrosive build up.
I hope this helps you get the most use possible out of your battery investment.

Read more about new battery break-in procedures here:




NEW BATTERIES?
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/electric-club-car/17096-battery-breakin-break-procedure-procedures.html?highlight=Battery+Breakin
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Unread 05-11-2010, 06:20 PM   #29
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rib33024 View Post
Read this




NEW BATTERY BREAK-IN PROCEDURE:
Following proper break-in procedure can increase the strength and the useful life span of your new batteries. New batteries are initially about 75% of their full strength. The following procedure will insure they reach their full potential.
The 1st 10 to 20 complete charge/discharge cycles are critical to insure they reach 100%. New batteries should be charged before use and thereafter as follows:
Plug the charger in and leave it alone until charger shuts off by itself. Then drive to discharge the batteries to 75% battery pack capacity (see chart) Plug the cart back in and repeat the charge cycle.......It is very important you let it charge until it is completely done. Repeat this for the first 10 - 20 cycles......by the 12th cycle you will notice a difference in power, speed, and run-time.........I have never had a customer say they have not noticed the increase.
Most importantly, NEVER run the battery pack down below 50% of capacity throughout their entire life. Never leave the batteries in a state of discharge for extended periods of time. Recharge the pack once a week if the cart is sitting idle or in storage. And when in doubt, recharge it.
During the break-in procedure, keep an eye on the water levels. T can take 12 hours or more for the 1st few Charging times. These extended charge cycles may evaporate some of the water. ( use distilled water only )
As the batteries break in you will notice the charge time gets shorter. Eventually going from 12 to 5-6 hours per recharge.
ONCE A MONTH:
Routine maintenance is the 2nd most important thing to insure you get the most use out of your new battery pack. It is critical that you get into a routine of spending 10 - 15 minutes a month to keep the cable connections clean and check the water levels. Proper water level is critical. Dry batteries die quickly.
Keep the Distilled Water level up to the bottom of the fill hole sleeve or a half inch above the lead plates. Do not fill to the top.
Use a hard nylon brush to remove any visible corrosion. Carefully check that all of the cable connections are tight. Loose connections cause arching which will melt the soft lead terminals. Spray-on Battery Terminal Protector is available from the auto parts store and greatly reduces corrosive build up.
I hope this helps you get the most use possible out of your battery investment.

Read more about new battery break-in procedures here:




NEW BATTERIES?
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/electric-club-car/17096-battery-breakin-break-procedure-procedures.html?highlight=Battery+Breakin
Yep. Those are to procedures I was refering to. I plan to follow them. Thats why I only went to 75% on first discharge. Thanks!
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Unread 05-13-2010, 01:38 AM   #30
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Default Re: Why didn't my cart get faster with larger tires?

Well I checked the ohm load of my yellow wire and my green wire before going into the controller spade( approx 16 gauge) and am getting really odd readings.

I have what is called in the club car manual "multi-step potentiometer." It is located under the driver's side attahced to the frame. Its a black box/pot that have several wires coming out of it. It has a blue going to the ignition. It has a yellow that goes straight to the controller. It has a black that goes to a multi-switch and then turns green before going to the controller. It has a purple that goes to one of the large terminals on the controller.

From what I have read I should have 5k-0. I unplugged the wires at the controller and am getting the following:

Ohm load between yellow and green with no accelerator - 6.35k ohms
Ohm load between yellow and green with accelerator to the floor - all over the place from 7-22K. Never does get stabilized to a common number.

am I checking this value at the wrong conditions? Batteries unhooked and f/r switch in forward. Key switch in the on position?
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