06-08-2010, 05:30 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 30
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Hard brakes
10-15mph I have to stand on the brakes for them to grab. Pedal is really hard. I know these are not hydro brakes, but they gotta be alittle easier.
I got new shoes and drums coming. Gonna clean and relube everything. Pedal comes back up fine. Just trying to stop, I literally have to stand on it. Wondering if you guys think if it's something else? TIA! |
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06-08-2010, 06:21 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central FL
Posts: 195
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Re: Hard brakes
If your pedal is up & not going to the floor, you may have a cable issue. Check your cables at the back side of the drums to see if they are pulling & releasing all the way
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06-08-2010, 08:32 AM | #3 |
revolutiongolfcars.com
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia
Posts: 10,224
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Re: Hard brakes
EC-Cartman is exactly right.... Unhook your cables and make sure they're working freely. Then when you're installing your new shoes, make sure the slide bar at the bottom of the brake cluster moves side to side by hand, in it's full range.
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06-08-2010, 08:38 AM | #4 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,406
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Re: Hard brakes
Sometimes people will mistakenly overtighten the brake cables in an attempt to improve braking. Glazed shoes can cause ineffective brakes. Check for signs that oil is seeping past the axle seal and contaminating the shoes. If so replace the seals and bearings before you put those new shoes on
What year cart is this? |
06-08-2010, 09:29 AM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: Hard brakes
Just remember one thing the brakes on any brand stock cart are made for golf courses and that means 10-12 MPH "MAX". Just like in my time when cars had mechanical brakes and even a few cheap ones ( FORD, Essex, Chevrolet ) had only rear brakes that were next to dragging your feet so to speak?
WARNING when working with brakes ALWAYS wear a surgical type face mask and ALWAYS wash them down FIRST WITH WATER ( I use large garbage bag wrapped around brake assembly after drum removal to retain water and material for safe disposal ) because of possible cheap linings having "ASBESTOS" While replacing brakes be sure and check drum condition and if in doubt replace them OR if available with only minor flaws have them turned. I always take fine metal sand paper and take any rust roughness or glaze across whole surface out. Also use a good brake lubricant on any moving or contact surfaces. At first after brake lining replacements the brakes wont be at their best until seated in so be careful. |
06-08-2010, 12:33 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 30
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Re: Hard brakes
It's a 2003 CC DS.
Thanks for the tips guys! Will use them! Here is the thread on my cart for additional info lol: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...-me-03-cc.html |
06-08-2010, 03:02 PM | #7 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,406
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Re: Hard brakes
Your 03 CC has self adjusting brakes..... If the cables are too tight the adjusters can not work. I have seen over-zealous adjusters too.... the replacements are cheap enough
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