Transaxel noise, bearings

pjshane

My cart has developed a rear end noise especially upon deceleration. The sound is sort of raspy and reminds of a dry, high speed bearing. (I did check the transaxel oil level.) I fear that I may have hurt the input shaft bearings when I replaced my stock motor with a D & D power head. My best guess is that I damaged the bearings with all the pounding and prying needed to get the old motor off the seized shaft.

The cart has served me well for a year since the modifications, but the strange noises, lurchings and hesitations now have me worried.

I am considering dismantling the transaxel myself to take a look. I've successfully overhauled gas and Diesel engines in the past and so have some mechanical ability.

Do any of you have any thoughts regarding my problem? Does anyone sell rebuilt rear end assemblies?

Thanks/pjs

BGW

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OLD MEC

When you installed new motor did you replace the Drive Unit Bumper Part# 102235201 and use Moly Teflon Lub Part# 102243403 as some times you get strange sounds if not replaced and lubed at installation? I have seen some differential housings damaged ( like yours when motor was stuck ) enough to miss align motor enough to cause motor or differential bearing abnormal wear, or at the very least put motor and input shaft in bind that could possibly cause sound? You might try draining the existing oil from axle and check for metal flecks, then if not too bad ( will find some small flecks in most differentials ) try adding 80-90 gear oil and see if that helps? I have quieted down minor noise in this manner.

lockman1

I think Old Mec is on the right track... before you tear into the transaxle,
you might want to check the ring/bumper

here's a couple threads that may help!

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ing-sound.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ng-bumper.html

pjshane

I like the thought of trying easy things first and subbed real gear oil yesterday, but while it might have helped a little, the main problem is still there. I found no filings in the old oil or even stuck to the drain plug magnet.

I don't remember anything about Drive Unit Bumper Part# 102235201 and so it probably it is not installed. I did grease the shaft before sliding the motor on, but did not use the Moly Teflon Lub Part# 102243403.

My next step will be to remove the motor and see if there is any play in the input shaft. If I find no play, I'll certainly install the bumper and lub when I put the motor back on.

Additional advice is most welcome.

tnx/pjs

OLD MEC

Hopefully the lack of metal of filings when you drained means that its not internal metal damage of any kind? The only other thought would be ( mis-alignment ) because of housing damage? The part numbers I gave you was for your stock 2003 IQ shown below your post but there are several different setups covering alot of years and motors and so with a motor change I would contact D&D ( always helpful ) to confirm what is needed. I always like to take the easy way and am not afraid to call suppliers for confirmation or help with a problem. "If they dont want to help I will think twice about using their parts again" With summer here we dont want to be ( under ) our carts but ( in ) them having fun. NOTE--I find that the special lub which is the correct amount to use works better than after market Moly lubs I have tried before, and allows motor removal alot easier? Removed one almost 5 years later and was as clean as when I installed it and no sign of rust on shaft.
Good luck and I hope this will solve your problem?

pjshane

I have the D&D motor uninstalled and completely disassembled. I see nothing wrong with the motor or the cart's transaxel. I now know a lot more about the motor than I wanted.

Although I cannot see or feel anything wrong with the motor bearing at the brush end of the armature shaft, I'll replace it before reassembly. The offending noise sounded like a high speed, dry bearing. The bearing is cheap at under $10, and is widely available and also used in snowmobiles, clothes washers, lawn mowers, etc. The bearing is stamped with 6205-2RS. I'll order it from D&D tomorrow.

While exploring the motor, I took off the black plastic end cap with the pigtail wires and accidentally broke the circle magnet attached to the armature shaft end. I think it is part of a speed sensor, but is that even needed considering I'm using an Alltrax controller? I wonder if it was supplied for compatibility with a stock Curtis controller? I don't want my speed controlled.

I'll be talking with Alltrax and D&D tomorrow, but any comments from y'all are welcome.

pjshane

There is no mention of a rubber bumper insert at http://www.golfcartpartsdirect.com/e...tshow/269.html

A local tech said he installed it "sometimes."

What do you think?

OLD MEC

The drive bumper part number I gave you came from Golf Cart Parts Direct Catalog and was for the DS 2003 IQ Club Car, which is listed below your avatar so I assumed that was what you are having problems with? IF cart is different I am sorry as your post doesn't show what you are working on?
"Re:Transaxel noise, bearings?"

pjshane

On Friday, I sent the motor back to D&D for refurbishing. After the bearing pressing did not go right and I accidentally broke the brushes holder, I could see I was beyond my skill level. I'll be getting back essentially a new motor for under $200 including shipping.

Looking back, there may not have been anything wrong with the motor in the first place. I have a way of getting myself into trouble.

pjshane

My motor is back after overhaul. As per D&D recommendation, I slurped plenty of anti-seize compound onto the splined male transaxel shaft and the female motor shaft before mounting the motor. I did not use a rubber bumper D&D said was needed by older GE motors due to poor machining tolerances.

The setup seemed "lurchy" and top speed a little less than before, but is improving with usage as new brushes wear in. I played golf yesterday without cart problems and had fun passing other carts on the way to and from the course.

The rear end noise is gone and only a light motor whine is heard. I still blame a dry motor bearing for the original problem. Time will tell.

Aside from a lot of sweat in a hot South Carolina home garage, the refurbish cost was $95 plus about $60 in round trip shipping.

Case closed, I hope.