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Unread 08-03-2010, 11:20 AM   #11
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

and in a sepex the field is completely seperate from the armature

at least thats how they are controlled, but it will work wired like a series motor just not for very long.
if you already have the motor out test the continuity on the a1/a2 terminals while spinning the armature very slowly to see if there are any bad loops in the core
those motors are bad for that in my experience
everything looks ok but you find a little burnt mark on the core of the armature
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Unread 08-03-2010, 04:57 PM   #12
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

Alright the motor is good, put another stock shunt motor in and tested and does the same as mine.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 05:44 PM   #13
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

Controller is bad, got the stock motor wired up and it's doing the exact same thing. So RMA time.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 12:20 AM   #14
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapjeep2 View Post
No but essentially what Rabbit referred to is the same thing I already did but that was for a series motor, for the shunt motor the fields are in parallel so trying to do a test that way won't work. I have to tie A1 and S1 together and A2 and S2 together and then apply voltage to the A1/S1 combo and the A2/S2 combo since their in parallel not series.
Nice Picture. I have posted the proper testing method for doing a Shunt wound motor before, but I'm too lazy to go looking for the post right now.

you are correct in how you are going to test the motor. I reccommend a minimum of 12 volts and a maximum of 18v when doing this test. and it is VERY important that power be applied to both the A1 and S1 posts at the same time to prevent grenading of the motor so I am glad to see you are going to tie the 2 together with a jumper wire. When I do this test, I use a #6 battery wire between the A1/S1 and the A2/S2. I tried it once using #10 wire for the jumpers and almost burnt my hand from the heat generated.....
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Unread 09-28-2010, 06:38 PM   #15
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapjeep2 View Post
No but essentially what Rabbit referred to is the same thing I already did but that was for a series motor, for the shunt motor the fields are in parallel so trying to do a test that way won't work. I have to tie A1 and S1 together and A2 and S2 together and then apply voltage to the A1/S1 combo and the A2/S2 combo since their in parallel not series.
Is there a similar bench test for a D & D 170-502-0001 SepEx motor?
I would like to be able to do a bench test for forward and reverse before mounting the new motor ...
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Unread 09-28-2010, 08:30 PM   #16
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

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Originally Posted by DavidP View Post
Is there a similar bench test for a D & D 170-502-0001 SepEx motor?
I would like to be able to do a bench test for forward and reverse before mounting the new motor ...
Sepex motors all use the same test but you can't test it without installing it anyway so why bother. Just wire it up and go.
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Unread 09-28-2010, 08:48 PM   #17
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

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Originally Posted by dougmcp View Post
Sepex motors all use the same test but you can't test it without installing it anyway so why bother. Just wire it up and go.
Hi Doug:

Its just really nice information to know if your buying a used motor from someone ... whether it works or not ...

I was hoping there was a simple way to do a quick test on a used motor using a 12V source to run a quick test on it ...

I suppose I could just believe a seller when he says that its OK ...
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Unread 09-28-2010, 09:44 PM   #18
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidP View Post
Hi Doug:

Its just really nice information to know if your buying a used motor from someone ... whether it works or not ...

I was hoping there was a simple way to do a quick test on a used motor using a 12V source to run a quick test on it ...

I suppose I could just believe a seller when he says that its OK ...
The problem with trying to check a motor not in the cart is it only has 1 bearing and needs to be installed to turn.
You can always use a continuity/ohms test on the posts to give you a partial idea.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 05:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougmcp View Post
The problem with trying to check a motor not in the cart is it only has 1 bearing and needs to be installed to turn.
You can always use a continuity/ohms test on the posts to give you a partial idea.
Hi Doug:
The bearings are not the problem!
It has 3 bearings now, as intended when used with a conventional golf cart ...
I had to bit the bullet and ordered the 19 spline output shaft for the motor ... and both bearings on the output shaft will be fully supported as it should be ... as well as the origional one within the motor ...

My problem ... was a simple bench test of a SepEx motor ... with all necessary bearings in place!

I notice this question has been asked a few times before ... how to do a simple bench test ... but it has been usually left unanswered ... at least the basic question that was being asked ...
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Unread 09-30-2010, 11:06 AM   #20
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Default Re: My Turn.... now mine won't run.

For anyone else that may be looking for a simple bench test for a used electric motor, or for troubleshooting ...

For a Low Voltage Motor Check for Shunt, Separately Excited, REGEN, DCS, PDS, IQ Type Cars ...

http://www.empinc.biz/tech_support.p...ntroller_shunt

For a Low Voltage Motor Check for series wound motor

http://www.empinc.biz/tech_support.p...troller_series

I had to search around for myself for what I thought was a very simple question, but I'm sure if there's anything wrong with the information above, everyone will let me know ...
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