lifted club cars - lifted ezgo
Home FAQDonate Who's Online
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Electric Club Car
Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars



Post New Thread  Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
Unread 08-19-2010, 10:38 PM   #1
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Default 36V Club Car died on the road

Hello. I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction. My CC just stopped working. It showed only one early warning and that was that I had to switch from forward to reverse once to get it going. The next time I tried it, it did not move. There was no sound, no smoke. I had to push it home.

I had this happen once before and I replaced the micro switch under the accelerator glide and the solenoid and it worked fine. Not this time.

I replaced the solenoid and the diode. Still nothing.

I followed the wiring diagrams to be sure the wires blue, yellow, green and black wires are all in place. Seems fine.

I checked the charge on all batteries (6v) and the complete circuit (36V).

I checked the voltage on each side of the solenoid (18V) on both in gear. 18V on the battery side only when in neutral.

I checked the FnR microswitch (18v) passes thru when not in neutral.


So, what am I missing? I am curious as to why I only have 18V on the accelerator side of the solenoid. Is that correct?

I can tell you that when I removed the cables from the solenoid, I touched them together for a second and hit the accelerator and the confirmed the accelerator and the motor work with a direct connection. I wonder now if that fried something else.

If anyone can review this list of info and make any suggestions I would appreciate the help.

Thanks

Greg
glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Alt Today
BGW

Golf car forum Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum
   
Unread 08-19-2010, 10:50 PM   #2
Cartsunlimited.net
 
scottyb's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 64,093
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

U are missing another 18v
You should have 36v when in forward and 18v in reverse .....


I assume we are talking about a 80s CC? Year and drive system would help us help...... CC made a 36v Cart for 30 years?
scottyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-19-2010, 11:07 PM   #3
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

Thanks Scotty.

I looked up the serial number A9702-XXXXXXXXXXXX and confirmed that it is a 97 DS. I was surprised to see that it was this new.

Thanks.
glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-19-2010, 11:18 PM   #4
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

Okay...Scotty. I had to recheck that voltage reading and I may have some better information to diagnose this problem.

First it is important to know how I am checking the voltage. I was initially using the frame to ground my voltage meter. That was probably not a good idea and it generated the false numbers posted above.

Now I am using the (-) terminal of the last battery in the series as the ground. It makes a big difference.

I just identified that when I have it in Fwd, there is 36v on the battery side of the solenoid and 0v on the accelerator side of the solenoid.

When I put it in reverse, I have 0v on the battery side, and 18v on the accelerator side of the solenoid. Looking at the mechanics of the FnR lever, reverse seems to bypasses the solenoid. I could be wrong, but that is what it looks like.

Also, both of the little terminals that hold the diode, have 36v on them when in R and F, but zero while in neutral.

Thanks again for any thoughts.

GW
glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-19-2010, 11:56 PM   #5
Cartsunlimited.net
 
scottyb's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 64,093
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

You might have an intermittent micro switch on the F&R
scottyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2010, 03:26 PM   #6
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

Okay. I have confirmed that the FnR microswitch works fine. I have replaced othe old one with a new one and it has changed nothing.

I have done the same with the accelerator microswitch again, and confirmed that the this switch is working too.

Understanding that this is a 97 with the type of solenoid that has two large terminals on top and two little terminals with a diode on the bottom, I want to point out a couple of things that may help diagnose this.

1. With the key on, both of the small terminals have 36V. This is true even if I take the green wire (from the accelerator microswitch and the diode off of the second terminal. This does not make sense to me. Shouldn't the green wire from the accelerator microswitch be the source of the juice for the terminal?

If I understand this solenoid, the two little terminals complete charge the spring to launch the connection between the two big terminals, sending 36V to the accelerator swipe arm. This is generally accompanied by a loud click that you can feel as the solenoid makes the connection.

2. Could there be a serious grounding problem that is causing the problem. Right now, my frame has 21V running through it. No matter where you touch the frame (including under the solenoid), there is 21V reading on the meeter, when grounded to the last (-) in the the battery series.

I am wondering if this is the root of the problem, through off the electrical function of the solenoid.

I would be interested in any thoughts anyone has on this.

Thanks.

GW
glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-21-2010, 06:44 PM   #7
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

Well, not much feed back from the experts out there, but I will give you the update if it helps you think of anything.

1. I totally cleaned the frame and eliminated the positive charge. The frame now throws off a solid zero when tested out to the last ground in the series.

2. I have reinstalled all the batteries, which are extremely clean at this point.

3. With the key on, in Forward, I have 36v on the two small solenoid terminals with the diode, and 36V on the battery side (going to the FNR switch) terminal of the solenoid.

4. I have nothing on the other solenoid terminal which is cable to the accelerator.

5. Pushing down the accelerator gives me nothing on the solenoid.


Removing the green wire from the solenoid as mentioned above, and the diode from the same small terminal, I was surprised to see that both terminals still carried 36V. This does not make any sense to me. Wouldn't it make more sense to see that the small terminal that gets the green wire from the accelerator microswitch would only have 36V when the accelerator is pushed down?

Also, just to be clear, the diode is not carrying the 36V. Connected to the remaining terminal where their is 36V, I get no reading at the end of the diode.

I am concluding that I must have a bad solenoid, which I purchased in an effort to replace a bad solenoid. Anyone else got a better idea before I go buy another solenoid? At $36 with a no return policy I hate to buy another one only to find out that I was wrong again.

Please help if you can, or tell me where I might have missed something.

Thanks.

GW
glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-22-2010, 07:50 AM   #8
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

Wow.....all these facts I have given and all anyone can offer is an intermittent FnR switch? I appreciate the help and the very quick response Scott. Clearly that idea was chased down and eliminated.

So, no one else is up for the challenge? There is an answer here somewhere. What additional facts do you need to have to solve the puzzle? Or is there already enough within the last updates I have provided?

glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-22-2010, 10:58 AM   #9
Cartsunlimited.net
 
scottyb's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 64,093
Default Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

It does sound like you have a bad solenoid. It happens .....
scottyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-22-2010, 11:34 AM   #10
Not Yet Wild
Club Car
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 11
Thumbs up Re: 36V Club Car died on the road

Thanks Scottyb. The answer was with the solenoid. But, it was not a bad one.

I took it off and tested it using a direct connection to the positive of the first in the series and the negative of the last in the series and found it to be working perfectly. A very nice solid clicking sound. So I knew something else had to be wrong.

So here is the rest of the story for those of you still pondering the problem.

When I was replacing the accelerator microswitch, somewhere along the way (maybe when I was removing a battery) I pulled out the black wire that runs to the microswitch and did not know where it belonged. Looking at the wiring diagrams, and confirming with a friends cart, it seemed to me that the black wire should have been connected to one of the terminals beneath the FnR. These are hot terminals, and that made sense to me in thinking that the accelerator switch sends a (+) current to the solenoid. But, in this instance I learned that was not the case.

Guilty party: In my cart, for some reason the key switch is also throwing a hot current to the FnR microswitch. So with the accelerator (+) and the FNR (+), I was getting no (-) to the small circuit of the solenoid.

By the way, I checked my friends cart and learned that his key switch wired as a ground, so his advice to hook the black wire from the accelerator microswitch to the hot terminal below the FNR was right in the diagram and for his cart, but not for mine.

Solution: So, to solve my problem I rewired the accelerator microswitch to the (-) on the last battery in the series and everything works perfectly.

Cause and effect: The primary problem, the day it died was the old solenoid giving up the ghost. As I pulled out the batteries, I created the secondary problem by attaching the wire to the hot terminal.

If you see anything wrong with this logic, please let me know. It is charging right now and everything appears to be back in working order.

I appreciate your time and insight.

GW
glwilliams58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Electric Club Car


Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Forum
'85 Club Car Died Electric Club Car
A8620 Died Electric Club Car
just died on me. Gas EZGO
Cart Died after going down bumpy road Gas EZGO
Electric Club Car Died - HELP Electric Club Car


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:08 AM.


Club Car Electric | EZGO Electric | Lifted Golf Carts | Gas EZGO | Used Golf Carts and Parts

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.