Wired for sound - Precedent stereo questions

SaltLifeCC

Okay, I got my light kit installed. One of the tail lights appears to have a short in the LED circuit board. The light comes on but is dim but brightens up when I press on the upper part of the lens where the led's are mounted. Checked the pins and everything else already. Called the vendor and they are sending out a replacement.

So, now I am ready to start looking into options for some tunes on the cart.

Would there be any issues wiring a stereo to the same battery (#4) as the lights are wired?

Any suggestions on speakers or speaker locations? I don't want a subwoofer but would like some speakers big enough to carry a little bass.

Any suggestions on where to locate the stereo unit itself? Are there kits other than the ones that go on the underside of the roof?

BGW

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Kidder

They have kits on buggies unlimited. Im sure there are many more those are just the ones I have found.

SaltLifeCC

Yeh, all I see on there are the overhead things. I assume there is no room in the battery bay to install speakers down there? Anyone have any experience with the overhead kits? I don't want to wake the neighbors but I want something that sounds good and not like a tin can and I want to be able to plug an ipod into it as well.

scubabud

TahoeDawgZ71

Yep, a big issue. If the stereo you're installing has a yellow "memory" wire it'll cause major problems. It's going to have a constant draw, always pulling power, always unsynchronizing the batteries from each other and it'll eventually cause the whole pack to get ruined.

SaltLifeCC

Any other input folks? Do the dash kits sold for these carts have a cutout to install a head unit in? If so, where are some good places for speakers?

It's logical that a memory wire of some sort would draw on the batteries constantly. So, what do people do about that?

To be honest, I expect that whatever we use will just be used most of the time to play an ipod through anyway - so something without memory or without it hooked up would probably be fine. But I want to avoid electrical interference too.

Anyone using one of these prefabbed overhead units? Is there room in there for good strong sounding speakers or are they kind of crappy?

TahoeDawgZ71

Check with Scubabud for info on a dash installed unit, and check with Bamadozier for an overhead unit. We use the overhead unit at our dealership and everyone seems happy with it. It sounds nice. The memory wire drawing power isn't the problem. The memory wire drawing power from 25% of the battery pack (One Battery) is the problem. If you used a 48 to 12 volt converter and spread it across the entire pack it wouldn't matter that it had a draw. It's such a small draw you'd never notice it. But hooked up to one battery, you're doomed from the time you hook it up.

SaltLifeCC

Again, thanks TD. So, is there a particular converter unit that is good to use? Oldmec suggested I'd want something with a 20amp rating, especially if running lights and a stereo off of it. But I have no idea what I'm looking for, specifically, or how to install it. Are they fairly easy to install? I'd rather put some money into a converter than a new, separate battery and then have to figure out how to hide it and still be able to charge it up now and then.

It's just that I see carts by the dozens flying around these campgrounds that are pounding tunes and blazing lights and they don't seem to have any problems, so I know it can be done, I just need to know how to do it right.

TahoeDawgZ71

The only one I have experience with is the factory one. It's pretty pricey... I'd imagine you'd be able to get one from a site sponsor for cheaper and it should work just as good. Whichever one you get should come with installation instructions. It's not hard to install. The factory one has the typical two output wires, 12V+ and 12V-... It's got three 48V input wires, Blue (48+), Yellow(48-), and White (48+Switched-ON) When installing a stereo I combine the white wire with the blue one and hook them both directly to the battery pack, keeping the reducer live at all times, rather than switched with the key.... This allows the memory wire to have a constant draw... I then install a 48V relay behind the dash for the ACC leg of the stereo circuit. Wire the control leads of the relay to the Blue side of the keyswitch, and the main negative battery post... This will give you a "switched" 48V circuit to turn the relay on and off with the key. Splice into the 12V+ output wire and run it through the relay's power circuit and up to the red wire of the stereo. This will allow the stereo to turn on and off with the keyswitch, yet maintain memory power at all times through the memory wire... If you need any help with the wiring I'd be happy to draw a diagram. As for the cars at your campground... they may not have problems now, but they will.. eventually... It's all according to how they're wired. I've seen lots of people just use a switch on the memory cable and switch it on and off when they want to use the stereo. When it's off... no draw... But the down side to that is the fact that you'll lose all of your presets and graphic EQ settings every time you cut the switch off.

SaltLifeCC

TD, thanks. I have time to hunt around but what are the tech specs I should look for on a converter? Old Mec mentioned amperage and said some only push 10 amps and 20 is probably better.

I sort of follow you on the wiring but may have questions, when the time comes on specifics. I've installed my share of aftermarket radio's in my day but would definitely like to install it such that the draw stays on but the radio doesn't with the switch off.