09-01-2010, 10:24 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gainesville Tx
Posts: 12
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battery arcing
i have a 83' club car that daughter wrecked. battery was leaking and aquired a used battery and installed. then noticed the far passenger silinoid (5 of them) had a green wire that was torn away. tried to reattached wire and cracked silinoid. ordered and installed new silinoid. charged batteries for three hours went to push the pedal and the positive terminal of the used battery arced.
any suggestion why this would have happened. i used extreme care to put wiring back as i found it. |
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09-01-2010, 11:30 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: battery arcing
Make sure the battery nut is tightened down properly, That is the only reason I can think of for it to arc.
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09-02-2010, 07:36 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: battery arcing
Anytime you have an arc or heat its caused by poor connections. You need to clean all contact surfaces to shiney metal and then tighten down tight and add some kind of anti corrosion type spray or lub to exposed metal areas to seal from more corrosion.
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09-09-2010, 01:18 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gainesville Tx
Posts: 12
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Whip lash when pressing peddal
Thanks and now is not arcing......New Problem. the cart took the charge however when i press the pedal (forwards or reverse) i have alot of play (too much) until I get the peddal almost to the floor then it takes off like a bat out of hell. Good speed. But it gives me whip-lash when the pedal is pressed to the floor. Real jekey that my daughters cant drive it any more...help i need to be a good father and get it fixed for them
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09-09-2010, 08:16 AM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: battery arcing
You may have a problem with the rest of solenoids, or operation or micro's inside white or silver box with red ends under drivers seat mounted on top of frame rail between batterys? Jack up the differential and block solid as wheels will be turning and can be VERY VIOLANTE, block front wheels so cart canno't move in either dirrection while doing tests.
WARNING AT THIS POINT NEVER ALLOW MOTOR TO REV HIGH ( IF IT TURN ITS OK ) AS YOU CAN RUIN THE MOTOR AND POSSIBLY HAVE A CHANCE OF YOU GETTING HIT BY FLYING PIECES. NOW turn key on and put F&R switch in forward, confirm that brakes are off, and now you push pedal down slowly do you hear 4-5 separete clicks from solenoids? If not then all you have left is HIGH SPEED which is a real neck popper. The first solenoid on drivers side is power feed through flat buss bar for the rest of speed solenoids, confirm that its working and then check with volt meter whether you have voltage going to each of the other solenoid SMALL POSTS in sequence. Its not uncommon for solenoids on these carts to be bad because each time you step on pedal they close and open each time so wear is major factor in repairing. NOTE just because solenoids click does not mean its making internal contact so the next step is to test with volt meter across large solenoid posts to see if power then is going to each large coil resistor in sequence. |
09-09-2010, 11:54 AM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gainesville Tx
Posts: 12
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Re: battery arcing
i have no clicking as i depress the pedal....is it safe to say that just that first solenoid is bad or the remaining three bad too?
I do not have a volt meterjust getting into this stuff . i'll try to find a friend that has one. |
09-09-2010, 12:12 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: battery arcing
At this point dont assume anything? Once you get a volt meter then you can start testing step by step to solve problem. For a cheap one go to Harbor Freight and look for numbers 92020 best cheap one or 37772 I have used both and had good results with them and treated them very hard at times.
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09-09-2010, 12:15 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gainesville Tx
Posts: 12
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Re: battery arcing
will do thanks again!!!
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09-09-2010, 09:57 PM | #9 |
The Last Moja Morani
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: jumping from cart to cart
Posts: 8,975
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Re: battery arcing
if the cart is running than your #1 soleniod ( master ) is good thats the furthest left one without a coil on it going from left to right the 1 next to #1 is 1st speed than 2nd and so on til 4th speed last one on right.....good chance your 1st and 2nd arn,t working and thats quite common on that setup.............gives ya a good case of whiplash.....and since the cart moves you have at least 1 speed your best bet is to change them all at the same time just do 1 at a time save the old master and the one on the other end 4th for spares........jack it up and put in gear and slowly push pedal down while watcthing wheels everytime a soleniod clicks except for the master you should see your wheels turn i,ll bet they don,t start till your almost at the floor........so i would feel safe at least changing 1st and 2nd speed.........while your in there clean everything you can the cleaner the better it makes a difference....................................
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09-19-2010, 07:03 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gainesville Tx
Posts: 12
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Soleniod
silver box with red ends under drivers seat mounted on top of frame rail between batterys 1983 Club car.....there are about seven wires coming from the silver box. is there a digram i can get to show which colored wire goes to which soleniod...i have an extra orange wire dont no where it goes???????
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