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Unread 09-05-2010, 05:03 PM   #1
Not Yet Wild
 
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Default 88 Club Car Solenoid Problems

Hello All,

My 89 year old father in-laws 88 Club Car had some solenoids go out and only the high speed one was working. So his problem became my problem. The cart has one year old battery packs. I replaced all the solenoids one by one so that I didn't mix up the wires. I also repalced the buss bar as it looked old. After I replaced everything, now all I get are the micro switches clicking and no motor. I tried putting it in reverse and forward with no luck. I've looked for a troubleshooting guide and haven't found one. I jacked up the back and put a voltage meter on the negative battery terminal and pressed the pedal one click and get 30 volts across all of the small solenoid posts. Can this be right? What is the sequence of operations when the pedal is pressed. I need to get this fixed as the old guy just worries about it. We live one hour from the nearest dealer and don't have a trailer. Plus, he's 100% Polish and doesn't like to spend money, but my time is free as far as he's concerned!! It's got to be something minor as it worked before the new solenoids where installed.

Thanks,

Gadgetman
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Unread 09-06-2010, 09:54 AM   #2
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Default Re: 88 Club Car Solenoid Problems

From your post I would look at batterys first as this is the POWER that runs everything. Since you have a volt meter I would do the following after looking at STICKIES for post of "State Of Charge Readings" this shows you what PROPER total pack and each individual batterys % of charge condition should be, VOLTAGE, AND SPECIFIC GRAVITY FOR EACH CELL.
#1 check across the whole battery pack for pack voltage ( should be over 36 volts ), look at chart for % of charge for whole pack, NOW DONT STOP THERE GO TO STEP #2
#2 check each battery ( NO NEED TO UNHOOK ANYTHING ) just go from positive to negative on EACH battery and again refer to chart for % of charge and save to send to us if needed.
Once you have done that and IF batterys are in good fully charged condition the next step is to remove and clean ALL battery 6 guage cable connections to bright and tight condition.
QUESTION I am wondering about what control setup you have as the 1988 Club Car had two types of speed control and MOST came with a V Glide unit ( pie shaped black box under drivers seat on top of frame rail ) and only ( one ) solenoid? Does FIL's 1988 CC have a white or silver box with red ends mounted under drivers seat on top of frame rail and between batterys? If so inside are 5 micro switches that feed power to each solenoid in order to control speed. ( ARE THESE THE MICRO'S YOU TALK ABOUT CLICKING OR IS IT THE SOLENOIDS THAT ARE CLICKING?? ) confirm.
Check with voltage meter from pack GROUND to FIRST solenoid small posts ( DRIVERS SIDE ) "while having key on and F&R is in forward" as this solenoid feeds power through buss bar to rest of solenoids when activated.
If you have results on battery condition POST them and if problem has been solved so far OR if not then I will take you through more of the testing processs.
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Unread 09-06-2010, 10:07 AM   #3
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Default Re: 88 Club Car Solenoid Problems

Are you familiar with the basic solenoid activation?

A quick overview of the solenoid is :
The solenoid is a HD on/off switch or Contactor
the connection is made /broken between the 2 large terminals. The 2 small terminals are the activation circuit. typically one terminal will have a constant negative connection to the pack. When Positive power is applied to the second terminal the contact is drawn up against the spring to make contact. When power from either side of the activation circuit is removed then contact is released and the spring pushes it away interrupting the circuit ...It doesn't matter which terminal is negative or positive.


There is a micro switch on the F&R switch. Check that. and There are 5 micro switches in the little silver box at the end of the gas peddle linkage.... however,
UNless one is intermittent I doubt your problem is there as it worked before the solenoid change out.
It may help you to know that the solenoid closest to the driver's side of the cart is the master. It must fire first to open the pack voltage path to the other solenoids.

Hope this helps
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Unread 09-06-2010, 11:14 AM   #4
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Default Re: 88 Club Car Solenoid Problems

GREAT INFO SCOTTYB I forget that some people dont understand solenoid functions and so should be given background to understand what should happen.
HAY SCOTTYB what are you doing up so early on a holiday? Hung over or like me in too much pain to sleep any longer?
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Unread 09-06-2010, 01:08 PM   #5
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Default Re: 88 Club Car Solenoid Problems

No Pain No Barf,-gonna be a good day.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 09:14 PM   #6
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Default Re: 88 Club Car Solenoid Problems

Hello Old Mec,

I'm finally getting around to getting the golf cart fixed! My father inlaw will be 91 in a month and has been very patient with me as it's been a busy two years and I now have some free time. The clicking noises I hear are the micro switches on the accelerator pedal. The relays are not clicking. I do get 37 volts when I test the batteries. When I move the switch to forward and test the voltage from the negative battery pack to the small post on the first soleniod, I get zero voltage. When I push the accelerator pedal down until I hear the first click, then I get 37 volts. What funny, is when I test all of the solenoid small posts, I get the same voltage at all the posts when I push the pedal down to the first click. This can't be normal can it? I had a repair shop tell me to measure the voltage between the two small posts and I get none. Any help would be appreciated as I really want to get this running. Is there a sequence of operations for the motor circuit that I can go check?
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