Club Car 94 Wiring Help.

jay24k

I had to replace my controller on my club car. I'm kind of confused because they had the A2 connection directly to the A2 on the controller. However, the A2 on the controller didn't go anywhere else. On the wiring diagrams it should of went to the F/R switch.

They also had the upper right leg of the F/R switch going to A1 on the motor. On the diagram it shows the M connection on the controller. Then the B+ connection on the controller to A1 on the motor.

This cart has never worked. The controller was completely fried when I got it so I cannot verify if this thing was rewired or wired wrong or what they did.

Should I rewire it according to the diagram? If so, Where on the F/R switch does the A2 connection go to? My new controller doesn't have it so I'm bypassing the controller and going directly to the motor which I read is common. The diagram shows a second leg on the F/R switch where A2 should go. But I don't see it on mine.

Here is a picture of my F/R switch and how they had it setup prior. I'm completely lost. I tried getting help on another forum but it doesn't seem to be very active. Friend mentioned this site so I'm hoping you guys are able to assist me.

Thank you. Here is a picture of my F/R switch. If you would like more, let me know and I'll snap some when I get home.

BGW

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scottyb

Welcome to BGW! Definitely go with the diagram wiring as apposed to what was on the burnt up unit.....
Would help us give accurate advice if we knew the year & voltage of the cart and the make and model of the controller.....

jay24k

Sorry. The cart is a 1994. It isn't a resistor cart but does have the controller. It is a 36V cart. I have no problem rewiring it correctly but I still don't understand where the A2 connection goes on the picture I posted of my forward/reverse switch. Any idea?

Thanks for the fast reply.

jay24k

Ok I've been researching this till my brain falls out :)

I read another thread here on a similiar issue.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...upgrade-3.html

He posted this picture which looks like my forward/reverse except I can't see the bottom lugs.


So I drew this up to show how it is connected and the changes(in blue) of what I planned. I noticed the battery is connected to the bottom two lugs on mine. I thought I read it allows reverse in full speed by jumping it? Is that going to cause an issue since essentially that makes the A2 connection direct to the battery? Should I remove the battery to the bottom lugs and go direct to the solenoid bypassing the lugs?

Any other info let me know. The serial was an A94xxxx on it I believe. I'm not at home but 94 was in it.

Proposed changes as seen from the other thread.

jay24k

Anyone have any additional ideas? Got the controller replacement in.

Wired up the M to the top right leg as in diagram.
S1 and S2 going to correct spots like diagram. Battery positive I have going to the solenoid. Otherside of solenoid I have going to B+ on controller. Also A1 on motor going to B+ on controller.

B- on controller going to negative side of battery packs.

Tested it all out. no movement. Jumped solenoid and nothing either although in reverse buzzer does sound when solenoid jumped but no movement.

Looked at the 1204 curtis manual (controller I put on it). It says to test B+ and B- on the controller with key off and should get 6V less then max voltage. I barely get 1 volt across it. If I tested it directly to one of the other batteries and not the controller itself (positive on controller, negative on a battery) I do get voltage across it.

I did test the motor before using the motor test. Just tested the motor again and it spins with no issues.

Anyone have any other ideas because I'm just about out. Willing to take pictures of do whatever testing necessary. Could it be the controller I got in is bad too? Or is it possible F/R switch?

I'm still leaning toward something in the wiring but I just don't know much about carts. As stated it is a A94 series motor with controller 1204 curtis.

Thanks.

Garys350

I have a 94 manual and just rewired my 36V cc A94xxxx serial number. the diagram says:

Battery neg #6bk cable to B- controller
Small yellow #18 from B- cont to solenoid
Battery pos #6 to solenoid, solenoid #6 Yel to B+controller
B+ #6green to A1 motor
M- controller #6 Blue to top side bar on FR switch (only wire on M-)
A2 controller #6 white to bottom side bar on fr switch
A2 controller#6 white to A2 Motor
S1 motor #6 orange to FR switch right side toggle bar(looking from back)
S2 motor #6 blue to fr swithc left side

control circuit
small spade connection on controller "A" gets wire from key and limit swtches (it is red coming from solenoid. It is "top of controller or opposite side from bolt mounting flange)
Small spade connection on controller "B" (center spade) gets black from v-glide or pot. This is the 0-5k speed signal.
small spade conn "C" (bottom next to bolt mounting flange gets small white wire from v-glide or pot.

Control circuit is simple. Takes pos power from positive bat cable at solenoid then goes to key switch, Acc pedal switch in vglide, fr micro switch then to controller A terminal

Next micro switch is buzzer. positive to buzzer to micro switch to neg at charger recpt.

Next micro switch which i dont see on your FR gives half speed in reverse. I puts a 5100 ohm resistor in parallel to the 0-5kohm vglide and limits the signal to 2500 ohm max in reverse.

Hope this helps. God speed.

Garys350

Yours looks a little different. some controllers don't have one of the big terminals which i think is used for plug braking. I think the wiring doesn't change much.

jay24k

Thanks. Yea That is how I hooked it up. Even when jumping the solenoid (pretty sure that is no good either), the cart doesn't move. Tested ohms on the lower two spades as documented and it appears fine as pedal is pressed. Tested the top connection and it does get full voltage if I jump the solenoid.

I'm kind of at a loss. I thought I would of gotten more suggestions on here. Guess I'm just going to drop it off at a shop this week. I'm willing to do any tests or anything else but I guess no one has any ideas.

Garys350

Only other thing i can think of is "are you getting control power to solenoid and to A terminal of controller. You said the solenoid is not working. That could be a key switch, pedal switch (internal to vglide), or the fr limit switch.

jay24k

Well if I test the side contacts of the solenoid, they do appear to work sending the signals to activate the solenoid. However the leg going to the controller B+ has no voltage so I'm fairly certain the solenoid is toast. So what I've done is tested while jumping the solenoid. I would think that by jumping it, it should send power to the controller and should cause the motor to kick off.

Could a bad F/R switch cause this too?

We bought it and they weren't sure why it wasn't working. The wiring was really odd on it and the controller had a huge hole blown in it. I got a feeling they tried to do something and possibly fried the controller and solenoid. Solenoids are pretty cheap so I guess I could just get a replacement one. I was just hoping there was a way to test to see if maybe there was something else.

I saw on an EZGO thread, they jump the M- and one of the B connections on the controller to test the controller but not sure if this is valid on these ones or even with club car carts.

Edit: By the way, I appreciate the help. Hopefully something triggers that maybe can pinpoint where it is failing.