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Unread 10-19-2010, 01:31 PM   #11
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

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Originally Posted by gornoman View Post
the switch itself MAY NOT BE THE PROBLEM
I'm on the same thought process here. You're running a 500 amp controller, I'd say with the 6:1 gears you are overloading the motor and if you upgrade your switch, the motor will be the next to go.
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Unread 10-19-2010, 01:32 PM   #12
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

re-posting

Last edited by Extractor; 10-19-2010 at 01:52 PM.. Reason: dfgh
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Unread 10-19-2010, 01:37 PM   #13
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

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I'm on the same thought process here. You're only running a 500 amp controller.
ok, I'm not disagreeing. Obviously I was soldering-challenged when doing the cables but what was the process that melted the plastic? Intermittent voltage?
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Unread 10-19-2010, 03:01 PM   #14
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

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ok, I'm not disagreeing. Obviously I was soldering-challenged when doing the cables but what was the process that melted the plastic? Intermittent voltage?
From where I sit it looks like you have a "cold joint" on your cable lug. This causes poor conductivity which in turn increases the heat load, melting the plastic components of the switch.
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Unread 10-19-2010, 03:50 PM   #15
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

Thanks. Hey, it all lasted 1 1/2 years after this: soldering battery lugs

I'm lucky it lasted as long as it did!

...back to soldering
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Unread 10-19-2010, 04:13 PM   #16
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

Extractor I use the CC factory F&R rocker type switch and mounting box that replaces the R&R lever mount holes. Lasts much longer in damp climate as it has seal to help block out water. Dont ask me about Chineses built electrical parts as most of what I have tried were JUNK and dont last long and many times wont even work first time?
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Unread 10-19-2010, 04:34 PM   #17
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

The bolt hole in the cable looks like it's not much smaller than the head of the bolt. Might need to use washers? Just a guess.
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Unread 10-19-2010, 07:01 PM   #18
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

There are many ways to skin a cat! But very few right ways. Soldering is an art but can be done by anyone if they follow the rules. First NEVER solder anything without Crimping first!!! Same with soldering (sweating) copper pipe, tight fit is required. Second all parts must be clean, clean, clean! This is all most impossible with USED multi strand (welding) cable. The acid seeps in from the battery's, even 4 inches under the insulation. As scottyb said, dipping the cable in flux before crimping, then soldering is best. Third If solder joint turns dull the solder was moved while cooling, and must be reheated.

Last edited by BLakeside; 10-19-2010 at 07:02 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Unread 10-19-2010, 07:26 PM   #19
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

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Originally Posted by OLD MEC View Post
Extractor I use the CC factory F&R rocker type switch and mounting box that replaces the R&R lever mount holes. Lasts much longer in damp climate as it has seal to help block out water. Dont ask me about Chineses built electrical parts as most of what I have tried were JUNK and dont last long and many times wont even work first time?
I just remembered. Right after I washed it I took it for a spin (read beating). Let it sit a bit then it was melted.
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Unread 10-20-2010, 08:54 AM   #20
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Default Re: Melted my Heavy Duty F/R Switch

As far as soldering I always had my near by welding supply shop ( where I purchase cable and connections and after I cut to lengths needed ) crimp the welding cable connections ( hydraulic crimper ) and then he used a high temp brazing-solder made for copper water lines which is low or no lead content. To keep from burning cable insulation he submerge cable close to soldered end in water? This was some thing I had never seen done before but it really works? I used to use shrink wrap but found that still got corrosion ( much longer though ) so I gave up and now can see if starts corroding. I only once had to replace a connection and found that combination of crimp and braze-solder made one solid piece.
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