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Unread 11-25-2010, 01:28 AM   #1
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Default My '87 is on jackstands now

Nothing wrong with things here, just took the time to put it up in the air to check things out underneath etc. Checked/adjusted rear brakes(was not bad, but now i know their status and blew out(dunno if pad are asbestos or not, but had a respirator on anyway ),cleaned up stuff there,also lubed the front suspension. Removed unneeded/wanted stuff from prev owner (my cousin), CB and related stuff all the way to the antenna mounted on the rear bumper.removed/cleaned up all batt connections(at least i know i'm "good" on those , until i replace/upgrade-size them when i get back to work after my sick leave from spinal fusion surgery ends inna few weeks, I'm a industrial 'lectrician w/ "access" to the good stuff LOL )
Fixed the "touchy" F/R switch, (cleaned up contact when in reverse, sometimes it would not "make" well enuf to move backwards)

Also noticed the ends of the floor where it bends up to the cowl had cracks in it, so i'll get to practice my alum mig welding son alslo (and beef up the area while i'm at it since it was a wear n tear/age cause for the cracks)

The big "boredom" thing i started doing , was to polish up the aluminum brackets/trim on the ol '87.(Stuff tends to get a lil "dry" looking over the yrs). Started with just hand metal polishing stuff and was very impressed on how it came out, so i got the bench buffer i had stashed away and removed a rear top support bracket(the one that start out on the body, goes/meets the rear seat and bends back to the rear area) Lemme tell you it looks like CHROME now and took off the lil brackets on the windshield, on the cowl to the 'shield frame, just cuz it was a EZ job to polish up.Again, they came out FANTASTIC! Can't wait til i do the winter project i have in my to do list and take off the body for a lil bodywork and then paint it a new color, then i'll have all the other aluminum pieces off anyway and can get the rest of them all nice n shiny.

It's only a '87, but it'll be one clean looking one with metalwork prob looking better than when it was new.

I'm really getting into this lil mini resto i am going now, i 'm in the shop and lose all track of time and having a ball!

Then it'll be a lift and new wheels n tires,,, then i'll be afraid to use it around here as a sorta utility vehicle LOL.
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Unread 11-25-2010, 09:43 AM   #2
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

When you worked on brakes I hope you used more than a cheap face mask as it allows asbestos into your lungs ( mesophelioma- lung cancer ) and that it was done out side so dust didnt stay in your shop-garage area? I have lost so many friends with lung cancer ( even 2 of my own retired shop mechanics ) in last 20 years even though I was aware of asbestos and required my shop people to take all protection possible? I was taught to wet down brakes with water from hand sprayer and then "wipe down" and "seal rags" away "in bags" for garbage. This keeps any dust from laying around to sneek into your families lungs later on. By blowing down you have spread the dust around that can later get into your families lungs ( small children are most likely to get cancer by exposure according to studies ) than adults?
SORRY ABOUT THE SERMON but I have seen too many people die the slow horrible death of LUNG CANCER and its not some thing I would want for anyone?? I am spending time in VA hospital and have 10 or more vets in near by beds with lung cancer and you dont forget the sound of the battle for every labored breath that they take?
If you had brakes torn down I also hope you cleaned and lubed ( brake lub only ) the backing plates and looked for grooves where shoes rest and filed them smooth?
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Unread 11-25-2010, 01:42 PM   #3
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Yup, no problem/worries there I'm a industrial 'lectrician and have the proper respirators at my disposal here at home(when they issue new ones, they tell me to do whatever i want w/ the old,, pitch 'em/take them home whatever,,, i just make sure i use the new/updated/proper filter canisters here at home also.

Been around the mill long enuf to remember when we used asbestos "wrap" for the bigger wire cables, back in the early days. If we/them only knew then what we know now . As part of my time spent working at a coke plant (the coal type stuff , not the stuff inna bottle/can LOL) i still have to get regularly scheduled health check /screening= lung tests and chest x-rays, even tho i have been working in another different dept for the last 20+ yrs.Not a lot of long time workers from the Coke Plant @ our 25 yr service company picnic's table(I've got 32+ yrs service, so i've been a member of the 25 yr Club.for some 6-7 yrs) Luckily i only put in 6-7 yrs there, and was only on/near the coke batteries when a electrical call came in.

FYI/FWIW: i donned my respirator, turned the large man fans i have in the shop toward the open shop door, and did the blowout in that fashion(and assisted moving whatever was in the air outward toward the open shop door w/ my air blow gun.


And yes i did clean/lube contact points for the shoes too. (Something i learned back in my pre 'lectrician career ,when i was a GM trained dealership mechanic)

Shoes looked in good/great shape, not much wear IMO(not like they get the wear/use time like for a "real" car , and they appeared to be fairly new, so I'm thinking they had been replaced in recent times and prob/hopefully made of non asbestos material.

Tho I'm getting a late start in the shop playing around w/ my "new" toy, the plan is to take apart the brake pivot "bar"(prob just drop the lower half to get to the bushings) and lube them. (still have some GM lithium lube here , good stuff) and start cleaning up the wiring under the cart (non battery stuff), like the lights and related smaller gauge wire, since i removed all the unneeded rat's nest of stuff prev owners messily put under there, the other day. Plans are to get some of that split loom cover material(looks like a black millipede i guess) to contain/cover the wires underneath, if anything to neat'n things up down there. Not a LOT of wires, but still want a cleaner look when I'm all done. Other than some well placed wire ties right now, I'll do the split loom thing later one when i have the body off for bodywork/paint, along with resto'ing the remaining parts, like the frame/battery holding framework(plans are to do the DIY rhino lining stuff in that area, just cuz)

Don't worry about the "sermon' , my Father in law was a mason in the mill, and had a lung removed some 14-15 yrs ago (black spot/mass located), he recovered//did ok afterwords (tho the "idiot" STILL smoked after using his breathing/lung clearing machine, whatever it was called) He did contract mesothemiomia(sp?)from his time in the mill in contact with asbestos during his career as a mason,, and my wife/family still get compensatory checks to this day (He passed away @ 79 yrs, the last 15 yrs with one lung) So i know very well the dangers and results of dealing with that kind of stuff


Your post regarding the dangers and how to deal with them is a VERY good thing to add here, i hope everyone reads it and learns from it
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Unread 11-25-2010, 02:13 PM   #4
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Glad to hear that you know what to do around possible asbestos contamination. So many dont know until its way too late? Great idea to clean and replace wiring where others have done slop job and covering will help alot. I go one step further with wiring in batterys compartment and under cart where batterys acid cleaning could get into looms I use schedual 40 plastic rigid pipe and seal ends around wiring with electrical chalk.
Good luck and keep forum up to date on cart up dates.
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Unread 11-25-2010, 02:45 PM   #5
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Thanks for the tips on the wiring.
Plans for the new/upsized batt cables are to use a lil dieelectric paste prior to lugging, more to keep it from "greening " up" and use of shrink tubing where i can use it (I have a "good" stuff that has the adhesive on the inside )
and prob in time go over and replace all other of the smaller gauge wires/connections, just for my own piece of mind , knowing they are done well.

And speaking of electrical stuff , i have a Taylor Dunn analog state of charge meter on mine which did not work when i got it (found there was only ONE wire going to it, and yet have found any remnants of it's mate LOL) I removed the meter from it's place in the dash and jumpered it to the battery pack itself, to check it's condition. I've got a 36v setup on my cart, and it states that on the gauge sticker, so at least i know it's prob the original or at least correct one. when i connected it to the batteries (using the full 36 volts, correct?) the meter pegs full over to the 3 o'clock position.
i also connected it to just 12 volts of the batt set (I lifted connections to isolate the 12 volts) and it of course reads lower/less "full on " pegging to the right.

Am i stupid on what the meter should be connect to /across? or do i have a bad meter?

At this time my computer is "stupid " and i can't read/open/save anything PDF-wise and can't really make out connection good enough with the thumbnails provided here at this time (I just gotta kind my CD of Powerpoint or whatever i got b4 when i had this problem w/ PDF stuff)

Even tho i read my batt. set after each use i give it w/ a Fluke meter(and charge accordingly), i still want to be able to see something on my dash to give some sort of idea as to where i'm with the batt's charge.

Thanks
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Unread 11-25-2010, 04:18 PM   #6
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Most often use for battery, motor and F&R cables are electric welding multi strand cables in 4-1 guage, stock was 6 guage. We find that covering ends has its good and bad points? Covered if corrosion starts will damage before seen?
Not being that familiar with quality like Taylor Dunn analog meters I would think that it should be adjustable? Connected to fully charged "pack voltage at 38.22" your meter may be at very top of readings? After a little load it should start to drop below 36 volts? You are correct in hookup directly across complete pack, I'm sure you will add a 5 amp fuse and most cart people dont bother to add switch to isolate as draw is not worth worrying about. Most cheap anaolog meters used on carts only show red-yellow, green or some thing similiar? With your knowledge of electricity I think you will add one of the digital read out meters before long? Of course you are aware that when getting to speed both anolog and digital meters will be all over the scale when your pulling from 50-200 plus amps.
With your knowledge I think you will be throwing away the old style micro and resistor speed controlling system for a modern battery sipping solid state system very soon to extend battery life and range, and maybe even up grade to 48 volts for a real ride?
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Unread 11-26-2010, 12:12 AM   #7
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Quote:
Originally Posted by OLD MEC View Post
Most often use for battery, motor and F&R cables are electric welding multi strand cables in 4-1 guage, stock was 6 guage. We find that covering ends has its good and bad points? Covered if corrosion starts will damage before seen?
Not being that familiar with quality like Taylor Dunn analog meters I would think that it should be adjustable? Connected to fully charged "pack voltage at 38.22" your meter may be at very top of readings? After a little load it should start to drop below 36 volts? You are correct in hookup directly across complete pack, I'm sure you will add a 5 amp fuse and most cart people dont bother to add switch to isolate as draw is not worth worrying about. Most cheap anaolog meters used on carts only show red-yellow, green or some thing similiar? With your knowledge of electricity I think you will add one of the digital read out meters before long? Of course you are aware that when getting to speed both anolog and digital meters will be all over the scale when your pulling from 50-200 plus amps.
With your knowledge I think you will be throwing away the old style micro and resistor speed controlling system for a modern battery sipping solid state system very soon to extend battery life and range, and maybe even up grade to 48 volts for a real ride?
Yup, plan is to use #2 welding cable
And on the meter, it does have the "red/yellow /green" on the scale face. thing is on what i'm assuming is full charge toward the right end of the scale, with (i recall, not 100% sure since i'm not looking at it at this time)where it says "charge"or chg let say the way end of it is at the one o clock position of the dial face, when i power it up across the 36 volts of the pack(fully charged as per my Fluke reads 38v's and some change(again not 100% of the exacts at this writing) the meter pointer will "boing" ,as in full on swing FAST as if it has no dampening to the meter movement(not sure if this kind of meter does have anything like dampening built into it) and go to what i would call the 3 o'clock position. Even tho it reads 36volts on the meter sticker, IMO it almost acts like it's something like a 24 volt meter that is getting "over powered" and maxing out past it's range,,if that makes any sense.
I might re-install and hook it back up(and run the "missing" 2nd wire i have never found LOL) to see how it reads/acts during cart usage, and back readings up with my Fluke like i have been going to base my charging on.

And YES hopes and plans are for upgrading to solid state and losing the wire wound resistor speed control mentality, along with going to 48 volts when these batteries have given up the ghost.But that'll be after body/paint and lift w/wheels-tires. I test drove a 48v '08 CC at my new nearby CC shop(Was a Pontiac dealer prior, so they went to being a CC shop, lucky for me LOL) and i sure could tell the BIG difference 'tween my 36v and a 48 v.

But for now i'm wondering if my current meter is toast and need to get a new analog one, ,tho getting a nice digital one for 36 volts(a lil more $$) seems like a sorta waste of cash if plans are to upgrade to 48v by next summer if my plans go on schedule.

And BTW: Thanks for all the help /info so far, it's been a great help!

and one more thing, since i'm currently off work on sickleave for spinal fusion surgery, and plans are to get back to work mid Dec, I remember we have some digital panel type volt meters @ work, w/ dip sw/adjustable ranges, so i might be "borrowing" one to use for my CC here.
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Unread 11-26-2010, 02:06 AM   #8
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Don't mean to threadjack, but regarding the asbestos thing, does anyone know if a 2004 EZGO PDS will have asbestos in the brake compartment? I have to do a little work on the brakes and I can do it outside with fans but all I have are those cheapy little 3M paper respirators like painters sometimes use.
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Unread 11-26-2010, 09:43 AM   #9
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Junkzoo--Before I forget about it when you do your upgrade to 48 volts retain your 36 volt motor as you are very lucky to have a good 36 volt motor, which is hard to find as many cart owners are looking for them as replacement higher performing motors and it does not hurt a good condition motor. I do always recommend rebuilding motor to peak condition which costs a whole lot less than any motor updates available, which I'm sure you would do anyway.
The meter is another issue as you said the meter had tag showed 36 volts?? I would think that meter would ruin itself ( break or bend needle or burn up? ) very fast hitting stop that hard? It might be that you could use one of the voltage adjustable digital meters that I see on Ebay, etc that are probably dip switch adjustable? I have never installed one so cant give any info on brand or suppliers. Or go with a 48 volt analog meter for now and be ready for up grade? Golf cart parts suppliers have cheap analog meter for less than $25. so your investment is minimal? I'm sure you know way way more than I do about meters, availabliity and functions to give you what you want, as I only know about dc meters? Now as to borrowing???????
EZGOKID-- Yes you should start your own thread, but to answer your question when I work on any brakes-clutches etc its as if they ARE ALWAYS ASBESTOS so I can feel safe that no body is going to be in danger. The surgical mask is next to nothing in this case and I would not EVER use one around brake dust. You need at MINIMUM a mask like commercial auto painters and high risk chemical exposure people use to be safe? They have pre-filter pads and chemical replaceable cannisters for double protection that I replace after each use ( expensive yes life saving worth every penny spent ) and always put them on face as per instructions ( NOTE NO FACIAL HAIR ALLOWED )? Even at that when I asked HAZ-MAT people when removing asbestos from my fathers old home and was told that even the paint mask is NOT ENOUGH as they use a special asbestos mask and full covering clothing taped closed at all joints, along with water wash down and wet material removal in sealed plastic bags that goes to a HAZARDUS WASTE approved site only, along with mask and all clothing and surgical shoe covers, and yes even the water sprayed on brakes? When I work on brakes I place a plastic bag around whole assembly and then through small opening on bag use a small spray bottle to wet whole area down before touching anything ( NOTE be careful when removing drum to not allow dust to get into air if possible again cover with plastic bag if possible ) and when off wet down inside bag as above. Alway wipe down with RAGS as they absorb better and retain asbestos better than paper towel etc. I DO NOT use brake cleaner sprays after cleaning proccess above because of possible bits of asbestos getting into air by drying and pressure effect.
All the above is not to keep you from doing your own work but to try and give you the best possible safety for you and every one around you ( Wife, Kids, Pets ) as well.
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Unread 11-26-2010, 09:51 AM   #10
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Default Re: My '87 is on jackstands now

Thanks MEC, 'preciate the info. I am going to go to home depot to see if they have one of those masks. And I will use a hose and wet it down all outside. Again sorry to threadjack.
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