head/tail lights stopped working

jcow

A few months ago I installed aftermarket (Chris Products) headlights and taillights. Everything worked great. They now have stopped working completely. Have checked all connection and the voltage coming into the relay all checks out. I THINK that leaves me with just a bad relay?? Does that sound right and if so, any ideas what would have caused the relay to go bad so soon? Thanks for any help.

BGW

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scottyb

jcow, do you have a fuse on the supply side? If not I would put in a small amperage fuse to protect your relay.

OLD MEC

If you installed a 12 volt system ( lights etc ) and hooked up wrong to power sourse you could have burned something out? You didnt say if you have 6 8volt batterys or are using a voltage reducer or how system is hooked up?
A good light kit should have fuse protection so look back at instructions for proper installation.

jcow

Thanks for the replies guys. There is an inline fuse with the kit. No issue with it. This is a 36v cart and a 12v light kit. It is wired into the first 2 batteries of the series of 6 and the kit included the power relay to reduce the voltage. I am wired from the ignition (both positive and ground) and from the pos and neg on each of the two batteries. Those all run into the relay. This all matches up to the schematic that came with the kit. Everything worked perfect for over 6 months, now nothing.

jcow

I should have restated on my last post.........I am showing voltage coming into the relay from both the battery side (12v)and the ignition side (36v) but obviously dont have anything coming out of the relay to the lights. I am pretty sure I have a relay problem but surprised it would go on me so soon.

sonicj

is your relay spec'd to handle a 36v trigger input?
-sj

OLD MEC

I think SONICJ has hit problem on the head? The activation coil ( the leads from ignition 36 volt switch ) may be only 12 volt so it would burn up light coil wiring internally very fast. On outside of relay it should show both switching voltage ( should be 12 volts ) and also coil input voltage should show 36 volts?
The other reason could be another cheap Chinese solenoid-relay that so often wont last very long to start with? If your lucky the relay will show place of manufacture but most now dont?

jcow

The only markings on the rely are "12v 30amp power relay" no brand or country of mfg given on it. I have seen replacements that look identical on line for $3 so cheap would probably be a good description Old Mec. It was provided in the light kit which states for 36v system and again, I am wired per the schematic. The voltage readings outside the relay are all ok. Just no voltage readings at all coming out of the relay. Tried to attach a picture of the relay but couldnt get it to take. Thanks again for all the help.

jcow

[IMG]http://http://justgolfcarts.com/lightkitrelay.html This site has an image of what appears to be the exact same relay I have if you are interested in looking. In no way promoting this site. Just happened to be the first one that came up on my search.

OLD MEC

I am guessing but from what you say about markings that you have 12 volt pull in coil that has burned up because of 36 volt input? You could by pass relay one time to confirm that otherwise lighting is working correctly and then ask supplier for replacement relay, and at same time I would go over how you have wired kit and if its possible that wrong relay was sent?
So often lights on carts are wired from a voltage reducer ( 36 or 48 volts down to 12 volts ) that they may have ASSUMED that this is how you are rigging your lights?? Or in the case of many parts from China, etc by the time installation instructions are translated to english info is all wrong?
Any time I have problems I contact sourse of parts and have them explain repairs and ask for replacement parts at their expense. Have installation info in front of you to refer to while talking with supplier.