Cart tries to move but can't

Fl_Gulfer · 01-03-2011, 03:25 PM

I've had no problem with my used cart for the past 2 years but this morning I went to go to the corner store and it acted like something was holding me back, it would only move about a inch in forward and reverse. It's fully charged and the yellow light on the dash won't go out either. It vibrates a little when it tries to move.
Any Ideas?

Electric
1997

Thanks

golfcarfixer · 01-03-2011, 03:26 PM

You have a bad battery or batteries.

OLD MEC · 01-03-2011, 04:02 PM

I know you are looking for fast solutions to your problem so it always helps if you include the model ( series F&R lever under right leg ) ( Regen Rocker type switch under right leg ) and battery pack voltage ( 36 or 48 volt ) and even serial number under passenger glove box on frame, when asking for help. 1997 had several different pedal controls ( V Glide under drivers seat ) ( 2 different black boxes under drivers floor connected to pedal assembly ) so really need more info please. This eliminates doing alot of guessing on forums members part.
If you have any battery test results they would be very helpful in diagnoses, so please post them if you still have them?

Fl_Gulfer · 01-03-2011, 04:18 PM

Sorry, Maybe this will help. I just went out and took these.

OLD MEC · 01-03-2011, 04:48 PM

Yes pictures always help alot, by the way a nice clean straight cart for that year. From pictures and serial number you should have a 48 volt series cart ( F&R lever )? The battery light that stays on after full charge indicates you have a battery problem ( low charge or bad batterys as thats its purpose )? I would first check all battery cable connections as even though they look good they can NOT have good connections? Then if you have a digital volt meter ( Harbor Freight $3-$6. ) I would check each battery and total pack voltage and record for forum comparison, or better yet a single float hydrometer with temparature correcting scale ( Auto parts store $5-7. ) ( NOT A ANITFREEZE MULTI FLOAT TESTER ) and take readings on each cell in each battery and again record for forums comparison. NOTE ALL TESTS SHOULD BE DONE AT LEAST ONE HOUR AFTER UNHOOKING CHARGER and BEFORE adding any DISTILLED WATER. Look close at 2 batterys under driver as for some reason they seem to go bad first?? Post results so you can get back on the road.

Fl_Gulfer · 01-03-2011, 05:03 PM

Do I need to disconnect the cables from the batteries to test them? I have a volt Meter but it dosen't apply a load.

GLEEMO · 01-03-2011, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OLD MEC

Yes pictures always help alot, by the way a nice clean straight cart for that year. From pictures and serial number you should have a 48 volt series cart ( F&R lever )? The battery light that stays on after full charge indicates you have a battery problem ( low charge or bad batterys as thats its purpose )? I would first check all battery cable connections as even though they look good they can NOT have good connections? Then if you have a digital volt meter ( Harbor Freight $3-$6. ) I would check each battery and total pack voltage and record for forum comparison, or better yet a single float hydrometer with temparature correcting scale ( Auto parts store $5-7. ) ( NOT A ANITFREEZE MULTI FLOAT TESTER ) and take readings on each cell in each battery and again record for forums comparison. NOTE ALL TESTS SHOULD BE DONE AT LEAST ONE HOUR AFTER UNHOOKING CHARGER and BEFORE adding any DISTILLED WATER. Look close at 2 batterys under driver as for some reason they seem to go bad first?? Post results so you can get back on the road.

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jlmurphy · 01-03-2011, 05:34 PM

No you do not need to disconnect to test with a volt meter. You can test each batterie by its self.

EZGO-MY-WALLET2 · 01-03-2011, 05:41 PM

not knowing much myself and not saying it is the problem or it may even be a prior issue/repair but is the terminal on the top right (in the battery pic) burned/loose ? Yhe one right below it looks a little bad too. Maybe it is just the pic ?

jlmurphy · 01-03-2011, 05:49 PM

Check and post the date stamp on the batteries.

01-03-2011, 03:25 PM	#1
Fl_Gulfer Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Fl. Gulf Posts: 6	Cart tries to move but can't I've had no problem with my used cart for the past 2 years but this morning I went to go to the corner store and it acted like something was holding me back, it would only move about a inch in forward and reverse. It's fully charged and the yellow light on the dash won't go out either. It vibrates a little when it tries to move. Any Ideas? Electric 1997 Thanks

01-03-2011, 03:26 PM	#2
golfcarfixer Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Forest City N.C. Posts: 2,660	Re: Cart tries to move but can't You have a bad battery or batteries.

01-03-2011, 04:02 PM	#3
OLD MEC Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,391	Re: Cart tries to move but can't I know you are looking for fast solutions to your problem so it always helps if you include the model ( series F&R lever under right leg ) ( Regen Rocker type switch under right leg ) and battery pack voltage ( 36 or 48 volt ) and even serial number under passenger glove box on frame, when asking for help. 1997 had several different pedal controls ( V Glide under drivers seat ) ( 2 different black boxes under drivers floor connected to pedal assembly ) so really need more info please. This eliminates doing alot of guessing on forums members part. If you have any battery test results they would be very helpful in diagnoses, so please post them if you still have them?

01-03-2011, 04:18 PM	#4
Fl_Gulfer Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Fl. Gulf Posts: 6	Re: Cart tries to move but can't Sorry, Maybe this will help. I just went out and took these.

01-03-2011, 04:48 PM	#5
OLD MEC Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,391	Re: Cart tries to move but can't Yes pictures always help alot, by the way a nice clean straight cart for that year. From pictures and serial number you should have a 48 volt series cart ( F&R lever )? The battery light that stays on after full charge indicates you have a battery problem ( low charge or bad batterys as thats its purpose )? I would first check all battery cable connections as even though they look good they can NOT have good connections? Then if you have a digital volt meter ( Harbor Freight $3-$6. ) I would check each battery and total pack voltage and record for forum comparison, or better yet a single float hydrometer with temparature correcting scale ( Auto parts store $5-7. ) ( NOT A ANITFREEZE MULTI FLOAT TESTER ) and take readings on each cell in each battery and again record for forums comparison. NOTE ALL TESTS SHOULD BE DONE AT LEAST ONE HOUR AFTER UNHOOKING CHARGER and BEFORE adding any DISTILLED WATER. Look close at 2 batterys under driver as for some reason they seem to go bad first?? Post results so you can get back on the road.

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01-03-2011, 05:03 PM	#6
Fl_Gulfer Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Fl. Gulf Posts: 6	Re: Cart tries to move but can't Do I need to disconnect the cables from the batteries to test them? I have a volt Meter but it dosen't apply a load.

01-03-2011, 05:34 PM	#8
jlmurphy Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: East to Southeast,Texas Posts: 187	Re: Cart tries to move but can't No you do not need to disconnect to test with a volt meter. You can test each batterie by its self.

01-03-2011, 05:41 PM	#9
EZGO-MY-WALLET2 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2010 Location: Upstate, S.C. Posts: 208	Re: Cart tries to move but can't not knowing much myself and not saying it is the problem or it may even be a prior issue/repair but is the terminal on the top right (in the battery pic) burned/loose ? Yhe one right below it looks a little bad too. Maybe it is just the pic ?

01-03-2011, 05:49 PM	#10
jlmurphy Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: East to Southeast,Texas Posts: 187	Re: Cart tries to move but can't Check and post the date stamp on the batteries.

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