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Unread 03-01-2011, 11:14 AM   #1
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Default Voltage Reducer for 48v Club Car

I need information on installiing a 48volt to 12volt reducer on my 06 Precedent. I am looking to add a radio, maybe turn signals and horn. I already have headlights and tailights hooked up to the factory harness. Any recommendations on a volage reducer and minimum number of amps I should go with, 10, 20, or 30 amp?
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Unread 03-01-2011, 12:47 PM   #2
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Default Re: Voltage Reducer for 48v Club Car

I just finished this modification so I can speak from fresh experience. I added a Sony AM/FM/CD wMP3 input and a pair of Infinity speakers mounted in front of the battery tub. I chose a 20 amp peak inverter that uses studs to mount in the factory location on a plate between the front suspension. I also took the opportunity to wire in an inverter for holiday lighting and some additional led strip lights for additional 'flair'. The intent was to run the above, stock headlights and led tailights of the reducer/converter to balance load the battery pack.

3 issues I immediately came up against:

1. noise interference created by the drive system made the radio almost useless. I'm using a hidden style antenna with a 12 v lead. If I hooked up the 12v lead, I got only static.

2. The reducer/converter I chose is not up to the task. Using the radio at 'cruising speed' volume was fine until I turned on the headlights. The headlights caused a large enough draw to shut the radio off. Lower volumes were OK.

3. No real good solution to keep the radio memory. Some here say to keep the voltage reducer wired directly to the battery pack and hot at all times. If you choose to do so, keeping the radio memory is not a problem. I chose to have it come on with the key switch. I read/heard of examples where the converter/reducer shorted and caused catastrophic damage to the golf car. Granted, it was probably caused by improper installation and/or grounding to the frame, but I want to be on the safe side. As a result, I lose the radio memory every time I turn the radio off. Especially bothersome since the radio defaults to a 'demo mode' every time memory power is lost.

Based on the three items listed above, I changed my strategy and decided to run the radio off of a separate 12v battery. Right now, its running off my camper battery but I will soon replace that with a smaller size battery and add a trickle charger.

The results are much better. Obviously I can now retain the radio memory. Reception has improved greatly although I did add poor man's insulation (aluminum foil) to the antenna lead which seems to have helped. The antenna cable is threaded thru the front canopy support and the module is discreetly mounted to the underside of the roof. Reception is the worse with the GO pedal at about halfway but much better than before.

Now I have no worries about running the other 12v accessories and their impact to listening to my tunes. The downside is having to maintain another battery but that was a compromise I was willing to take. I'm also happy knowing that my 48v battery pack is now charging/discharging equally with the addition of the reducer/converter.

Hope this long winded experience helps you. There are many threads about this topic which gave me the courage to pursue this. I suggest you read 'em all and make up your own mind.

Pictures of the install are attached. I added a picture of the antenna module which is shown mounted above the steering column on the backside of the dash board for reference. It has since moved to the roof.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG-20110205-00001.jpg (184.0 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20110205-00002.jpg (187.8 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20110205-00003.jpg (184.2 KB, 103 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20110205-00004.jpg (181.4 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20110205-00005.jpg (178.1 KB, 90 views)
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Unread 03-01-2011, 03:22 PM   #3
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Default Re: Voltage Reducer for 48v Club Car

Just to add to CINROCK detailed explanation I solved my static problem like him by using a 12 volt handicap scooter battery ( small in size 7.5"X5.5"X7.5" ) that is made for long service and being sealed gave me the ability to mount in any position. Until I added my custom built body I threw it in the glove box? Then to improve recepetion even more I placed it over the top of my front suspension. This helped even more on reception as it was further away from all static creation parts. To solve charging I added a marine power ( higher amp rating ) outlet on dash and by converting my auto 12 volt charger to plug in ( like Lighter ) then its simple to plug in as needed. For my use the scooter battery only needs charging twice a month normaly.
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Unread 04-10-2011, 12:03 PM   #4
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Default Re: Voltage Reducer for 48v Club Car

Thanks for the tips!
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Unread 04-10-2011, 01:10 PM   #5
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Default Re: Voltage Reducer for 48v Club Car

Nice CINROCK
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