1985 DS- Resistors are getting extremely hot.

hot_rod93

I have a 1985 DS (the 5 solenoid set-up) that is Lifted and Has 20" off-road tires. Everytime I drive it for a few minutes last resistor gets so hot that it literally glows red. I have replaced all of the microswitches in the speed switch assembly and have also replace all of the solenoids and resistors. I also tried using the larger gauge resistors to see if that made any difference and it didn't. Today, it actually caused one of the battery terminals to break. Any ideas what the problem could be?

BGW

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OLD MEC

THE heat build up is normal ( especially at "slow speeds" and the "extra loads" that you added LIFT and LARGER DIAMETER TIRES ). Your system is the old fashion way of controlling and changing speeds, and unless you got correct resistance factor in different coils you could possibly have made things worse?. Question what end of cable broke, at battery or where connected to resistors? Burning contacts is also normal with this antiquated system. You need to update to solid state controls to solve your problem. Very cheap in the long run over what you now have.

GLEEMO

Bump

redriderno22

you can help it by doubleing up the last resistor. but this is a temporary fix

that setup with the tall wheels puts alot of current through those resistors

unless you go back to 18" tires

the best fix is to go with solid state

arcitech

Shouldn't the last resistor be bypassed by the high speed solenoid? At full throttle none of the resistors should be getting too hot (although I wouldn't dare touch them). If the last solenoid isn't energizing, then the last resistor will get really hot on a full power run. Jack up the rear end and measure the voltage across the large posts on the last solenoid, if it reads anything other than 0VDC then the power is getting routed through the resistor instead of the solenoid. Fix is to get another solenoid or determine if the charge circuit is faulty from the pedal.

OLD MEC

I took the "Last Resistor Glowing" as being the last one ( passenger side ) that is coil nearest to full speed, and yes ARCITECH full speed should bypassing all resistors. I have seen this same effect ( glowing hot passenger coil ) lasting for several minutes after cart was run at full speed and stopped and checked. The first time I saw this I thought that #4 solenoid might be stuck shut or the speed switch micro's or slide assembly or even linkage was out of adjustment in older carts BUT I have seen this on V glides in newer carts that might have some kind of bridging effect, and or linkage out of adjustment? I have found a few old style resistor setups with solenoid stuck, and 2 cases of V Glide brush bridging and one linkage out of adjustment but still see same long term heat built up?
REDRIDERNO22 Yes it would help some by doubling resistors but each one should only have 1/2 of total resistance factor of stock one or you would be slowing cart down?, and so this gets you back to high temp on 2 coils rather than one, If I correctly remember my radio shop training at school??
Solid state is the way to go in my opinion.

hot_rod93

Thanks for your help guys. What is needed to convert it to solid state?

scottyb

A potentiometer, a controller and some wires I have converted a few of these late 80s CC to solid state and it is a night and day type of improvement in performance and runtime. Of course most of them went up in voltage eventually ~ that really made a difference. But the conversion is fairly simple. Ask Dukgtr.

OLD MEC

To convert to solid state on your 1985 CC requires following
Different throttle speed control like "Curtis PB-6" adapted connection to existing throttle linkage, solid state controller Example ALLTRAX Model NPX 4844 ( 400 amps ) , depending on model of existing unit a different F&R control with micros, or addition of one to two more micros for 1/2 speed reverse and reverse alarm, a complete set of 6 guage MINIMUM ( better yet 4 guage ) cables to replace existing ( different routing and lengths needed ), one good existing solenoid, the addition to solenoid of Diode ( solenoid rated 70-100 amps 1N4004 1 amp, or solenoid 200 amp and above 1N5408 3 amp ) and Pre Charged resistor ( 250 Ohm 10 Watt for 24-36 volts.
If you would want to really get with it at the same time the addition of two more batterys to equal 48 volts, this along with existing motor will be like supercharged comapred with what you now have? ( minor changes being different solenoid and big ticket item the charger ) to handle 48 volts.

scottyb

Lots of guys make the solid state conversion first at 36v then within the year go up in voltage. The controllers are 36-48v. I have some very specific potentiometers and controllers I suggest if you want to do this.