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Unread 03-07-2011, 03:00 PM   #1
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Default Terminology

I've been following the the "DS no power except lights" thread because I currently have the same problem; however, I quickly realized I need some very basic assistance with the terminology used before I go any further. Pardon my lack of knowledge, I am very, very new to this stuff.

I assume "pack voltage" is the combined voltage of all the batteries once properly connected together; is that correct? What do the terms "pack voltage from the frame" or "pack voltage at the frame" mean?

Based on the "Serial Number Guide" sticky, I have a 2002 CC Electric I.Q. Golf Car, 48 Volt Regen. My first plan is to remove all of the wiring from each battery (with the run/tow in the tow position - read that in another sticky) and test the volts of each battery before going any furhter. I have power to the lights and winch, but no drive. All I get is a clicking sound when I push the pedal and another clicking sound a few seconds later. The person I got the cart from said that last time that happended, he said it was a loose ground wire at the rear of the cart by the passenger tail light that fixed it. However, he went on to mention that a small handsaw worked its way under the seat and on top of two batteries and he thought maybe that did something to short something out. All that aside for now, I just want to check the voltage at each battery and go from there. Thanks for any assistance.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 03:50 PM   #2
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Default Re: Terminology

Pack Voltage is the voltage from the + Positive on Battery number #1
to the - Negative connector on the last battery.
Batteries are wired in series so that the voltage adds as U add more batteries.
Club Car uses a floating (or relative) ground not chassis or frame ground.
So if U have a voltage reading fro the Positive Post to the frame on the cart its not normal or good .

Measure each battery and the pack report measurements here

Pictures of the battery compartment are nice
And give us the model #
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Unread 03-07-2011, 04:20 PM   #3
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Default Re: Terminology

Thanks Gleemo, I understand that part at least now. When I saw those comments in the other thread, I thought maybe I was supposed to get a reading using the frame as a ground. I see now that is not the case for my cart. I guess the other cart was not a Club Car. I'll get a few pics of the battery compartment and post them when I get the various readings from each battery and the pack. I've attached a pic of the S/N label, I'm not sure if that helps regarding the model or not. I honestly don't know the model. Based on the S/N guide in the sticky, I assumed the model was an "Electric I.Q." versus a "DS Electric", but again, I'm clueless.
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File Type: jpg IMG00104-20110306-2013.jpg (85.8 KB, 2 views)
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Unread 03-07-2011, 04:28 PM   #4
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Default Re: Terminology

I read the guide again and I guess mine is considered a DS model since the S/N begins with an A.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #5
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Default Re: Terminology

to remove all of the wiring from each battery

Ram you need not disconnect the batteries to test each one.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 05:36 PM   #6
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Default Re: Terminology

Thanks dooms, I thought each one would need to be disconnected from the next as being connected to another one would interfere with the voltage reading of just one battery. Do I only need to disconnect the primary pos and neg?
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Unread 03-07-2011, 06:02 PM   #7
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Default Re: Terminology

NO - Not to test voltage

Do U have a digital volt meter ?
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Unread 03-07-2011, 06:09 PM   #8
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Default Re: Terminology

Gleemo - yes, I'm getting a read on each battery right now. I didn't disconnect anything just flipped the switch to tow.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 06:22 PM   #9
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Default Re: Terminology

That works , each battery is self contained , the electronics include, 1 +POS post and
1 -Neg Post ,
read from each battery with Volt meter set on DC Volts , Red lead of meter on +POS and Black lead on -NEG .
Then move to the next battery and repeat post results here
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Unread 03-08-2011, 11:55 AM   #10
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Default Re: Terminology

Update to my problem. First, thanks again GLEEMO for the call, I learned a lot in that short conversation!

I think I found my problem. After getting a read on all batteries and the pack, I climbed under the cart to just take a look (not that I knew what I was looking at) to see if anything looked out of place and sure enough, I found something - see attached pic of motor. The power wire has simply broke loose from the "terminal connector". My first reaction was to grap a wrench and take the connector off and re-crimp the wire, but after talking with GLEEMO, I realized that I could do some damage if not taken off properly.

The problem I am having now is that both nuts, as well as the threaded bolt coming out of the motor are rusted pretty bad and the entire thing wants to spin, which I hear is bad. Unfortunately, becuase of the "terminal connector" sandwiched between the two rusty nuts, it is very diffficult to get a wrench, vice grip, channel lock, etc. on that bottom nut to hold it still while I attempt to break loose the top nut. I shot it a couple times with WD-40, but again, the entire thing wants to spin. Any reccommendations on how to proceed from here?

The good news (at least I think) is that all batteries, as well as the pack, seemed to read ok; I got the following reads - pack = 50.2, batt 1 (the one with the primary positive) = 8.4, batt 2 = 8.4, batt 3 = 8.5, batt 4 = 8.3, batt 5 = 8.3 and batt 6 (the one with the primary neg) = 8.1. I attached pic of the battery compartment.

Thanks all!
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File Type: jpg IMG00112-20110307-1706.jpg (118.8 KB, 25 views)
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