New motor, cart won't move

mustangless

I got a pq motor installed, but the cart won't move. I turn it on, put it in reverse, push the go pedal. It buzzes, clicks, and the battery light comes on.

It has been sitting about a week, and before that had 1 hour on a full charge.

I had a post here
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-problems.html

quote from the thread
Is my controller fried, or could it be something else?

BGW

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OLD MEC

Did you install motor or have some one else do installation, not sure from your post if you only hooked up wiring or did whole motor installation and wiring? If some one else and its a cart shop or dealer take it back for needed possibly costly repairs.
If you installed motor yourself, I see you had key off and run-tow switch in tow THATS GREAT.
BUT when you first turn key off and put in tow position DID YOU THEN BEFORE DOING ANYTHING TO WIRING OR MOTOR, DID YOU FIRST unhook the ( pack ground cable ) and then SECOND remove the ( pack positive cable ) and wrap both loose lug ends with electrical tape to keep from shorting?
Without having done that your pack was still hot and any shorting-sparking ( could possibly ) destroy or do damage to MCOR, OBC, Controller, and even damage Motor Windings-Armature? Another caution is did you use ( Two "2" Wrenches with electrical tape wrapped around handle and end to keep from shorting out against anything ? ) one holding cable stud lock nut in place while tightening cable nut with other wrench?
Just trying to narrow down what may be needed to test for damage.

GLEEMO

Before U get too excited , measure the voltage on each battery and entire pack and post the results here (never assUme).

mustangless

I did not know until after, that I was supposed to unhook both battery cables. Before I knew, I had already disconnected the the motor (only the one the wire was melted on). That is when I threw sparks hooking the new cable to controller (if that is the black box). I did all that damage last week.

Then, when I took the motor out, I only disconnected the negative cable. Shortly after doing that I read I was supposed to disconnect the positive too (think there is a sticky up top about it).

So, after doing it wrong 2 times, I think I got it right the 3rd time, when I installed the motor. Cart had been sitting for days off, on tow, with negative disconnected. Took off the positive and then installed the motor. Hooked positive, negative, switched to run, key on and it does not move. Like I said above, it clicks and buzzes in reverse. The battery light comes on too.

Have not checked the voltage, but I thought about the batteries being dead. They are not that old (maybe 2 years), but maybe I will be lucky.

Ran out of time today, but should bet the readings tomorrow.

cheapjeep2

From experience, this sounds like a blown controller.

OLD MEC

CHEAPJEEP2 Yes you are correct it very well could be controller but trying to narrow down what one item or possibly group of HIGH DOLLAR ITEMS ( Controller about $670. and or OBC about $240. ) he damaged by shorting pack voltage is what I hate the most, RECOMMENDING OWNER BEING A PARTS CHANGER? This where I HATE to try and carry through with controller testing with a owner doing tests?

cheapjeep2

Absolutely true, although both parts can be had much cheaper.

OLD MEC

I just based on CC prices, and yes they can be gotten cheaper ( ALLTRAX Controller is my choice and non programable as well ), but on OBC I have had so much trouble with after market junk? that I'm sticking with CC parts OBC's.

GLEEMO

K , lets get those Voltage readings first, .
Its just a dead pack, I noticed back in the http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-problems.html
The battery voltage was never posted

cheapjeep2

I am referring to actual OBCs, my local Club Car dealer sells so many of them they are normally under $200.00 The non-precedent models typically run $175 and the Precedent is right around that.