Questions on DS F/R Micro switches and mocor

ATV-RVr · 03-30-2011, 04:10 PM

Im slowly building/converting an 05 CC regen to a DS cart. I have a DS wiring harness, Im using the regen mocor(the DS wiring harnes plugged in correctly) and a F/R switch that also has the 3 micro switches bolted to the back. And of course I have switched out the motor, OBC and the controller. My questions are...
1. Does anybody have the wiring diagram that shows the switch logic? The diagram I have (from the thumnails) doesnt show the terminals at NC or NO when F/R is in neutral position.
So this is what I've come up with so far...
Switch 1 (closest to the front of the cart) this is a 2 contact switch;
contact on top has white/black wire
contact on the bottom has white/green wire
this switch is NO (normally open) when the F/R is in neutral and NC (normally closed) when the F/R is in forward or reverse. This switch has a switch inside the mocor and the key switch in it's loop and looks like it puts power to the controller #1 stakon when the key is on and the throttle is pushed and the F/R is in forward or reverse. Is this correct?

Switch 2 (middle switch) this is a 3 way switch with 3 wires coming out
Top wire Black is the common and is connected to the red/white wire going to controller B-
center wire Blue is the NO contact when the F/R switch is in Neutral and in Forward but NC when the F/S is in Reverse (this wire isn't used per my diagram)
bottom wire red is the NC contact when the F/R switch is in Neutral and Forward and NO when the F/R switch is in Reverse, and is connected to the orange wire (from the reverse buzzer) the buzzer stays on while in Neutral and Forward
I belive the orange wire from the buzzer should go to the blue wire is this correct?

Switch 3 (farthest to the rear) this is also a 3 way switch with 3 wires coming out
top wire green is the common and is connected to the green wire that goes to the controller #2 stakon (for the mocor resistance)
center wire black is the NO contact when F/R is in Neutral and Forward and NC when in Reverse and is connected to the black wire from the mocor
bottom wire white is the NC contact when the F/R is in Neutral and Forward and is NO when in F/R is in Reverse this wire connects to the white wire from the mocor.

On switch 3, does this allow the mocor resistance to work when the switch is in all positions (Forward/Neutral/Reverse)?

My Mocor resistance readings are...
F/R in Neutral or Forward and the trottle isnt pushed = 8490 ohms
when trottle is pushed all the way down = 2100 ohms
this is a 6k diff is this ok? I thought they were 5k pots. Is there some adjustments I need to make to the linkage?
F/R in Reverse and the throttle isnt pushed = 13520 ohms
when the trottle is pushed all the way = 7190
Is this normal?

Sorry about the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible to get the few questions answered.
Thanks

GLEEMO · 03-30-2011, 07:47 PM

what year DS are U shooting for

ATV-RVr · 03-30-2011, 08:29 PM

Thanks Gleemo, that is the diagram I needed. As far as the year model I'm shooting for would be an 05. What does the resistor and diode on the soleniod do? Thats the only thing I dont have yet...

GLEEMO · 03-31-2011, 09:42 AM

One is a load resistor, to keep sparks from flying each time the large terminals close.
The diode (I believe) is for isolation on the small cables to keep a reverse spike from
feeding back-wards into your electronics

rose88 · 03-31-2011, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLEEMO

One is a load resistor, to keep sparks from flying each time the large terminals close.
The diode (I believe) is for isolation on the small cables to keep a reverse spike from
feeding back-wards into your electronics

Yep Diode only lets source go 1 way if you install it backwards, Guess What?

Be sure and look close.

GLEEMO · 03-31-2011, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rose88

Yep Diode only lets source go 1 way if you install it backwards, Guess What?

Be sure and look close.

At the stripe on , only 1 end

hbondurant · 03-31-2011, 02:01 PM

The resistor is actually used to precharge the large capacitors inside the controller. The previous post about arcing is correct, but resistor also makes sure a surge does not hit the controller. I have seen new controllers ruined because 1. the switch was not in tow 2. switch key was on.and 3. Unit was either in forward or reverse. happens worst on E-Z-GO carts but will also mess up G-16 Yamaha and Club cars..

ATV-RVr · 04-05-2011, 09:49 AM

Thanks for the replies everybody, I installed the resistor and found out that the new 48 volt soleniod I purchased had the diode already...very small but soldered in the small connections. The electrical part of this cart is now running great. I have another question but will start a new thread.

GLEEMO · 04-05-2011, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATV-RVr

Thanks for the replies everybody, I installed the resistor and found out that the new 48 volt soleniod I purchased had the diode already...very small but soldered in the small connections. The electrical part of this cart is now running great. I have another question but will start a new thread.

Thanks for keeping us informed

03-30-2011, 04:10 PM	#1
ATV-RVr Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 34	Questions on DS F/R Micro switches and mocor Im slowly building/converting an 05 CC regen to a DS cart. I have a DS wiring harness, Im using the regen mocor(the DS wiring harnes plugged in correctly) and a F/R switch that also has the 3 micro switches bolted to the back. And of course I have switched out the motor, OBC and the controller. My questions are... 1. Does anybody have the wiring diagram that shows the switch logic? The diagram I have (from the thumnails) doesnt show the terminals at NC or NO when F/R is in neutral position. So this is what I've come up with so far... Switch 1 (closest to the front of the cart) this is a 2 contact switch; contact on top has white/black wire contact on the bottom has white/green wire this switch is NO (normally open) when the F/R is in neutral and NC (normally closed) when the F/R is in forward or reverse. This switch has a switch inside the mocor and the key switch in it's loop and looks like it puts power to the controller #1 stakon when the key is on and the throttle is pushed and the F/R is in forward or reverse. Is this correct? Switch 2 (middle switch) this is a 3 way switch with 3 wires coming out Top wire Black is the common and is connected to the red/white wire going to controller B- center wire Blue is the NO contact when the F/R switch is in Neutral and in Forward but NC when the F/S is in Reverse (this wire isn't used per my diagram) bottom wire red is the NC contact when the F/R switch is in Neutral and Forward and NO when the F/R switch is in Reverse, and is connected to the orange wire (from the reverse buzzer) the buzzer stays on while in Neutral and Forward I belive the orange wire from the buzzer should go to the blue wire is this correct? Switch 3 (farthest to the rear) this is also a 3 way switch with 3 wires coming out top wire green is the common and is connected to the green wire that goes to the controller #2 stakon (for the mocor resistance) center wire black is the NO contact when F/R is in Neutral and Forward and NC when in Reverse and is connected to the black wire from the mocor bottom wire white is the NC contact when the F/R is in Neutral and Forward and is NO when in F/R is in Reverse this wire connects to the white wire from the mocor. On switch 3, does this allow the mocor resistance to work when the switch is in all positions (Forward/Neutral/Reverse)? My Mocor resistance readings are... F/R in Neutral or Forward and the trottle isnt pushed = 8490 ohms when trottle is pushed all the way down = 2100 ohms this is a 6k diff is this ok? I thought they were 5k pots. Is there some adjustments I need to make to the linkage? F/R in Reverse and the throttle isnt pushed = 13520 ohms when the trottle is pushed all the way = 7190 Is this normal? Sorry about the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible to get the few questions answered. Thanks
ATV-RVr Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 34

03-30-2011, 08:29 PM	#3
ATV-RVr Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 34	Re: Questions on DS F/R Micro switches and mocor Thanks Gleemo, that is the diagram I needed. As far as the year model I'm shooting for would be an 05. What does the resistor and diode on the soleniod do? Thats the only thing I dont have yet...
ATV-RVr Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 34

03-31-2011, 09:42 AM	#4
GLEEMO just leave me alone Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 5,643	Re: Questions on DS F/R Micro switches and mocor One is a load resistor, to keep sparks from flying each time the large terminals close. The diode (I believe) is for isolation on the small cables to keep a reverse spike from feeding back-wards into your electronics

03-31-2011, 02:01 PM	#7
hbondurant Not Yet Wild Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 29	Re: Questions on DS F/R Micro switches and mocor The resistor is actually used to precharge the large capacitors inside the controller. The previous post about arcing is correct, but resistor also makes sure a surge does not hit the controller. I have seen new controllers ruined because 1. the switch was not in tow 2. switch key was on.and 3. Unit was either in forward or reverse. happens worst on E-Z-GO carts but will also mess up G-16 Yamaha and Club cars..
hbondurant Not Yet Wild Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 29

04-05-2011, 09:49 AM	#8
ATV-RVr Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 34	Re: Questions on DS F/R Micro switches and mocor Thanks for the replies everybody, I installed the resistor and found out that the new 48 volt soleniod I purchased had the diode already...very small but soldered in the small connections. The electrical part of this cart is now running great. I have another question but will start a new thread.
ATV-RVr Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 34

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