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Unread 05-16-2011, 03:38 PM   #11
Not Yet Wild
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

You've made a believer out of me with the diode and resistor question.
1)When you say jump from (+/-) do you mean put one (+) jumper cable on #1 battery and the other on one small post and (-) on battery #6 and other post with no other wires connected? Just want to make sure I do it correclty and don't fry anything.

2) Are the volts that are supposed to be going to one of the small terminals coming from wires on the battery side or the controller side? May be a stupid question but I am new to this.

Thanks a ton DBlom
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Unread 05-16-2011, 03:50 PM   #12
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

That's OK, there are no stupid questions. I would first try, with everything connected properly, putting a volt meter across the solenoid small terminals (solenoid should only have four terms, two large and two small), reading volts, with + lead on red wire, - lead on yellow wire (across the coil of the solenoid) - with key on and no throttle, should read zero volts, and when you press throttle pedal, should then get full pack voltage across coil (and reading on meter) - if you have polarity wrong, you'll either read a negative voltage (digital meter) or try to drive your meter needle negative (analog meter) - no big deal. Point is, you should get solenoid engagement voltage then. Oh, by the way, within the F/R switch (one of the three microswitches you said you replaced) is an interlock switch that demands that the F/R switch be in either F or R (not in the middle) to get solenoid coil voltage.
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Unread 05-16-2011, 03:54 PM   #13
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

Sorry, I didn't answer your question #2 - the small wires connetced to the solenoid coil come from a harness and are not immediately identifyable as coming from the battery side or controller side - but on my cart, the red wire is on the battery side and is the positive supply, switched by keyswitch/foot pedal switch/FR interlock switch all in series. Yellow wire is on controller side and attaches (test continuity) to the controller B- terminal. Hope that helps.
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Unread 05-16-2011, 04:02 PM   #14
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

awesome.. im on it..
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Unread 05-16-2011, 06:43 PM   #15
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

So I tested power going into the solenoid from the small black and white wire coming from the f&r switch. Got power when pedal pressed... Did a test per the manual to see if the OBC crapped out. Put one end of a jumper to the small term on the solenoid with the yellow wire. The other end on negative term on number 6 battery. Pressed pedal, solenoid clicked, and cart ran... Per test the obc needs to be replaced. The problem I'm having with this conclusion is that this used obc that I installed a week ago actually made my charger work again... Is it possible that only part of the obc is out? Can I permanently jump to the negative term? Seems like the obc has only lost a ground on the yellow 18guage wire...
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Unread 05-16-2011, 06:50 PM   #16
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

if you can identify the negative side of the activation circuit you can disconnect it from the solenoid and test it. If you get 0neg volts then that function of the obc has failed. I would think you could bypass it with a lead to the battery pack main neg.
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Unread 05-16-2011, 06:59 PM   #17
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

I just took the yellow wire off the small term of the sol that goes directly to the obc.. Put pos tester on it and negative on #6 (-) and got no reading with or without pedal being pushed... Will I fry the cart and myself if I jump a negative lead to bypass the yellow wire on the obc?
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Unread 05-16-2011, 08:29 PM   #18
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

yes its possible for the OBC to be bad in a way the cart won,t run but will charge or will charge but won,t run and a hundred ways inbetween.......if it runs with the jumper and charges you can leave it that way but its not recommended cause charger will not shut off and a high chance of overcharging batteries...................................
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Unread 05-16-2011, 09:03 PM   #19
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

Thanks shadow..... Im the same guy with thread 1995 48v cc won't run... The original obc was bypassed for charging purposes when I bought the cart... Just didn't know it at the time. My charger never went through the diagnostic phase when plugged in... With the new "used" obc it goes through the diagnostic phase perfectly and slowly drops to less than 5amps as charge cycle completes... Will leave it on charge tonight to see if it auto shuts off... If so I should be ok on the charging side of the obc. As for the running part, I just don't know enough about the obc wires to be fully confident that I'm not going to set the cart on fire. I'm pretty sure that the little yellow wire on the solenoid is a ground running into the obc. What I don't know is if that ground function is just for the solenoid or for something else too... It seems to run ok on the jump and I'm using a heavy guage wire....... Will gladly accept all good jobs and don't do its from everyone... Just need some confidence either way...
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Unread 05-17-2011, 07:40 AM   #20
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Default Re: Problem with resistor, diode, or both?

i don,t know of anyone who burnt there cart up other than me and it was an E-Z go.......but that was all my fault, you don,t have to disconnect the yellow wire just put the alligator clip on that post.................like i said only problem is charger not shutting off.......still much safer to just replace OBC and be done with it................
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