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Unread 05-29-2011, 09:29 PM   #21
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastride View Post
I went back out to the cart and when i put the lever in reverse, i get 7 green blinks and then turns to solid green but if i push the pedal all the way down, it turns red. When i put the lever in forward, all i get is blinking red. The wheels still turn just a little bit when it is in reverse but it does not move at all when it is in forward. And one more thing, the potentiometer is the factory club car, i just have the cover off of it
1. When in reverse and you say the pedal is all the way down it turns, red, you mean it turns orange, look at it again, it should be an red and green indicating orange which means full throttle.

2. In forward, when you get the blinking red error lights is there a pattern to it, look up at the post by Scotty B see the number of blinks. If it just blinks off and on and no obvious pattern than that is 1...

3. Do you ever here the solenoid click when you press the pedal in either direction?

4. Do you have a the software and USB to serial cable to program it?

I did figure out that you have an early Club Car potentiometer that was only used on 1996 and 1997.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 11:23 PM   #22
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Sorry, it does turn orange not red. When i put it in forward, it just seems to be blinking red all the time. I dont hear the solenoid clicke in either direction.
I do not have the program or the usb cable, D&D motors said when i bought every thing that i would not have to program anything but now i am starting to wonder about that.
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Unread 05-30-2011, 10:14 AM   #23
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Thanks for that information.. Do you have a volt meter?

We need to do some testing. The blinking red light: on off on off on off.. Is an error code 1.
Which means the controller does not like the throttle input. The question is why it does not like it in only forward.

This is what error code is telling you:
Open throttle alarm
Check for a break in throttle wires or bad crimps
Replace throttle assembly

I have the schematic and am looking at it in comparison to your wiring.
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Unread 05-30-2011, 10:20 AM   #24
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

See picture.... Please confirm the wire that I am pointing to in with the red arrow is going to S2 on the motor.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_4386.jpg (133.6 KB, 11 views)
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Unread 05-30-2011, 10:23 AM   #25
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastride View Post
Sorry, it does turn orange not red. When i put it in forward, it just seems to be blinking red all the time. I dont hear the solenoid clicke in either direction.
I do not have the program or the usb cable, D&D motors said when i bought every thing that i would not have to program anything but now i am starting to wonder about that.
My opinion is D&D knows what they are doing so do not mess with controller programming. The solenoid not clicking is an activation circuit problem and the red flash is like a high peddle fault. I have found this is usually caused by the controller not powering up before the throttle input is starting to come into the control.

I hope this helps.
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Unread 05-30-2011, 10:40 AM   #26
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Still reviewing wiring but on/off is not wired right. The Blue and green lines should be seperated on the switch. Green is 48v hot, this wire and the orange/white wire should be on one the source post together. The blue wire then should be on the other spade. So when you turn it on, green supplies power to blue, blue supplies power to the down line micro switches at the throttle and then at the F/R switch.

Wiring at the motor and controller looks correct, just need to make sure that they one blue wire is indeed going from the S2 on the switch to S2 on the motor. Solenoid wiring looks correct as nearly as I can tell.

One other problem I see, maybe others know but this does not look right. The outer most micro switch on the F/R switch appears to only have two connectors. This does not look right. You should have three. I have a set of switches in my hand and the outer most has a black, green and a white. The schematic also shows this. It looks like in the picture you have the green and the white wire connected but not the black. This black wire which also looks like it's not connected in the picture IS coming from the throttle box.

So it looks like there are two wiring issues.

Attached are three things, the Alltrax document for the AXE, a Club Car Schematic, this schematic is for your cart, but it shows an MCOR versus the Throttle you have but the diagram and wiring is still functionally the same, and a picture of a heavy duty switch like what you have with the correct micro switch.

I think this is your problem because the black wire that shows not connected appears to be coming from the throttle, which if it's not connected it's not going to tell the controller to do what it needs, which indicates an open which ties to the error you are getting "open throttle".

The fact you don't hear a solenoid click is another issue, I think that is why the cart runs in reverse for only a second, as it's bleeding the capacitors. BUT let's get the two issues I pointed out sorted first.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg switch.jpg (54.6 KB, 4 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Doc120-053-A_TN013-AXE-NPX-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf (120.9 KB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf Series Club Car.pdf (143.9 KB, 2 views)
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Unread 05-30-2011, 01:09 PM   #27
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

I do very much appreciate you spending the time to help me on this!! As for the black and whit wire that goes to the forward and reverse switch, the one that i took off had 3 spade connections on that micro switch (this looked like a problem to me also). Do i need to take the micro off of my old one and replace it? Another concern of mine is that, the toggle switch that i am using for now, is that ok? I also have three wires that are coming off of the middle micro switch that are not hooked up to any thing. I was told that i do not need to hook them up since i am not using a reverse horn, is this true? I am going to have to look at the the green, blue and orange wire that you are talking about. I hope that i am not bothering you but you really sound like you know what you are talking about and would like to continue talking with you on solving my problem.
Thanks again
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Unread 05-30-2011, 01:37 PM   #28
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastride View Post
I do very much appreciate you spending the time to help me on this!! As for the black and whit wire that goes to the forward and reverse switch, the one that i took off had 3 spade connections on that micro switch (this looked like a problem to me also). Do i need to take the micro off of my old one and replace it? Another concern of mine is that, the toggle switch that i am using for now, is that ok? I also have three wires that are coming off of the middle micro switch that are not hooked up to any thing. I was told that i do not need to hook them up since i am not using a reverse horn, is this true? I am going to have to look at the the green, blue and orange wire that you are talking about. I hope that i am not bothering you but you really sound like you know what you are talking about and would like to continue talking with you on solving my problem.
Thanks again
1. Disconnect the main negative on the battery before doing anything so as to not cause a short.

2. The toggle switch is fine... all the key switch is simply an off an one, just like the toggle. BUT you need to fix the wiring like I told you on the toggle.

3. Yes, take off the micro switch from your old FNR switch and put it on this one. Connect all three wires green to green, white to white, black to black.

The middle micro switch only has two wires and it is simply for the reverse buzzer, right now it does not need to be hooked up.

4. Make sure you are you are doing this testing with the cart on jack stands so when you test the rear wheels are off the ground. Safety first.

Hook up the negative after making these changes and test again, post results and we will go from there.
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Unread 05-30-2011, 02:05 PM   #29
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

I just went to the shop and changed the wires on the switch and now it works fine, thanks. I took off the micro switch and replaced it with the one off of my old FNR and it still does the same thing. Could it be possible that i do not have the potentiometer adjustment screw adjusted right? I went by the book but it seems like i have a lot of travel on the pedal before it ever engages. I have a ohm meter but am not sure where i need to start.
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Unread 05-30-2011, 02:51 PM   #30
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Default Re: all new parts and still no go

Quote:
Originally Posted by fastride View Post
I just went to the shop and changed the wires on the switch and now it works fine, thanks. I took off the micro switch and replaced it with the one off of my old FNR and it still does the same thing. Could it be possible that i do not have the potentiometer adjustment screw adjusted right? I went by the book but it seems like i have a lot of travel on the pedal before it ever engages. I have a ohm meter but am not sure where i need to start.
Do you still have the red error light when in forward?

Set your meter to measure ohms - pull the yellow and green small wires with blade connectors wire off of the controller and connect to your meters probes to it. Record the ohms with the the throttle up, and then slowly push it to full throttle and record ohms at full throttle.

Nothing has to be powered one while you do this.
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