98 Club Car not running, but power to motor

Sgt_Slacker

howdy all!! super new here but have been reading ALOT of posts.

here is my problem:

ive got a 98 club car 48v with a lift kit and off road tires monday and it will not move. it was sitting for i dont know how long (the guy i got it from was a drunken fool lol)

the batts charged to 51 but will hold at 47, i took all cables off the cleaned everything. cleaned the f/r switch.

when the key is turned on and the petal pressed the solenoid kicks on and that is it. i jumped the solenoid like in other threads and it didnt work, everything is getting power. the motor is get power. the f/r switch buzzes in reverse.

the battery light on the dash comes on for a few and then off. i reset the OBC per instructions on here

what to do now???????

thank you all in advance!
Richie

BGW

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scottyb

Welcome to bgw

It does sound like you have been doing some reading here

THe main thing against you now is the poor condition of the battery pack. Attached is the SOC chart showing that 48v is what we consider empty or 50% drained. The charger should be bringing the pack up to 58-63v. Looks like you need bats?

Jack the rear up and try to run it... can the wheels turn while off the ground? Don't over rev it! If it moves ~ good enough for this test.

Attached Images

State of charge for print.PNG (170.2 KB, 28 views)

Sgt_Slacker

thank you!! this site is AMAZING!!

***, about the batts!! know of any place to buy reasonable priced batteries and could it be wired for take 4 12v deep cycles??

yea thats what i for got to post, i jacked it up (per one of the threads ) and pushed the pedal down, nothing.

the motor will not even turn if its 47-48ish????

Sgt_Slacker

!!!SAD UPDATE!!!

i just went out and bought a set of new batteries, they are reading 52v BUT still noting!!!! does the same thing, just hear the solenoid kick on and thats it.

the motor is getting power, im about to cry!

scottyb

Solenoid clicks does 48v go in and out of it on the bog post when it clicks.? Black test lead to battery main neg... red to solenoid = one large terminal hot all the time & other large terminal hot when it CLICKS... if yes proceed to controller output test...
Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M- terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage.
I probably should mention controller test is done with at least one rear wheel jacked off the floor and key on, directional selector in forward. ~ test leads on B+ and M- should read 0v then push the gas and watch the voltage rise to full pack voltage?

Sgt_Slacker

just did the testes and everything is getting power. the f/r is getting power. im gonna try a motor test, even tho i took it down and apart and cleanned it and did a continuity test.

scottyb

Leave the motor in the cart just use 2 batteries in series for 16v.

Attached Images

Series motor test.jpg (18.5 KB, 32 views)

Sgt_Slacker

that looks different than my motor, i dont have the two posts marked LR1 & LR2. does it make a difference when testing??

Sgt_Slacker

ok, just tested the motor and it works!!! but still not running :(

gaminde

here