Carryall I - No go, no click

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I've got a Carryall 1 from possibly 1999, I've owned it 10 years. Forgive the dirty condition, the machine just showed up looking like this...



It's been great up until recently. It's been on loan to my In-Laws for the past 2 years, and it suddenly didn't want to go anymore. No click from the solenoid.

Father-in-law talked to a local golf cart repair shop, they said change the OBC. He did, and it didn't fix the problem. But while he was sitting there, with his foot on the pedal, it suddenly started to go! About 6 hours of use later, it was dead again.



He got the shop to give him another OBC, and he dropped it off with me. I installed the OBC, and, of course, nothing has changed, still dead.

Now, I noticed while checking, that this component got "Really" hot in the 2 minutes I had the batteries hooked up. Resistor or Diode? Why is it hot?



Voltage across the bank is 49.1v, I know that's low but I don't dare charge it for fear something is going to catch fire. I jacked it up, and no motion whatsoever from the rear wheels, definitely dead, not just low batteries.

Does this little device confirm that this is indeed a resistor cart?



The machine's serial number is F9914-755168. In addition to help with the problem I'm having, can anyone tell me anything about this machine from this number? 1999 model year? Series, Resistor? DS?

BGW

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shadowman

no thats a controller cart....it could be as simple as a bad soleniod you have posted in one of the pic,s the other devive was the V-glide......jack the rear up and get a 6 gage jumper wire and jump the large post on the soleniod turn key on put in gear and press pedal if cart works than you have either a bad soleniod or the micro in the activation circuit........if thats the case try and get your money back from the dealer after all they told you to change the OBC .......make sure to get a new resistor and diode to go with it IF it turns out to be soleniod. oh and welcome......................

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Hi Tom,

thanks for the welcome. I've actually been on here for a few years, yet the "Join Date" shows Feb 2011? I've never posted, just lurked and done some reading.

I can't seem to find my Service Manual right now, but I also have the Parts Fiche on CD, and it appears that the smoky bit on my cart is the resistor, item # 26? That's what jumps from Large Red to Large Yellow. The Diode, item #28, seems to jump from small red to small yellow.

As I don't have a schematic right now, can someone explain how the solenoid works? For example, does +12v on small yellow close the solenoid, and allow power to go from large red to large yellow, powering the motor?

Therefore, testing for power on small yellow when the pedal is depressed would definitely confirm bad solenoid?

Why is that resistor getting so darned hot? Or is that normal? I wouldn't think so....

What's the purpose of that resistor anyways? I'm a little leery about even hooking up the battery cable to jump the solenoid, for fear of doing any damage, until I understand why the resistor is getting so hot.

Michael

shadowman

the soleniod is just a big on/off switch......there are times when i use my meter and times when i don,t i don,t trust it 100% as there were times when according to meter readings part was good only to find out it wasn,t thats why i say just jump the soleniod it will either work or not.....you can take the resistor and the diode off the soleniod and you won,t have any problems as far as testing goes.....they are just a few extra little safety devices thrown in but in reality you don,t need them.....so remove them and hook your power up......when you do plug your charger in and post if it works......try jumping that soleniod............................

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Hooked up the battery cable, checked from B- terminal on motor controller to solenoid, 49v. Other side of solenoid, also 49v. With key in off, brake on, F-N-R lever in neutral. That can't be good!

Jumped the solenoid using my trusty 1/2" wrench, big spark and spinning wheels.

Now how do I determine if it's the solenoid, or if it's whatever controls the solenoid?

sonicj

sounds like you need a better meter


put 48v across the small terminals on the solenoid. if solenoid latches, its good. (its just like a big relay) careful with that wrench! these batteries can supply enough current to weld!

my guess is something failing in the interlock circuit. ie: microswitch, key, wire fatigue, etc.
-sj

shadowman

no i don,t need a new meter fact is sometimes they just arn,t right and that includes my 290 dollar fluke .......ok so it works with soleniod jumped that means you can take the OBC back.......you have the wiring diagarm backstep the wiring from the soleniod it should go to one of the micros in the F&R if that micro is good replace the soleniod and resistor, and diode.....make sure you put the diode on in the right direction...silver band towards positive..........the place where you got the OBC tell them to bring you a soleniod and pick up the OBC and you,ll have enough left over to take me to dinner....................lol..................

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Sonic, can you give me better directions on how to jump power into the small leads of the solenoid, to confirm it is indeed the solenoid and not the microswitch? Should I jump from the large red wire to the small red wire, and see if it clicks? I'd like to confirm before I buy yet more parts here!

My local shop is telling me that seeing 48v on both sides of the solenoid, whether on or off, is normal. Is that due to the resistor?

What should the resistor read, by the way? My local shop couldn't tell me! Mine measures 130 ohms.

sonicj

here ya go... (see photo) you can grab + power at the large solenoid input. grab - at the neg battery. make sure the rear end is on stands, etc.

130Ω sounds a little low... i would replace with a 250Ω 5w.
-sj

Attached Images

SOL-1010.jpg (175.0 KB, 6 views)

sonicj

can you give a specific example? which model fluke do you have? a $290 fluke shouldn't miss anything in a first line golf cart troubleshooting scenario!
-sj