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Unread 06-22-2011, 07:28 PM   #51
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

Start with the big wires (cables) Check one against the diagram from end to end. Check where it lands at both ends. When you are absolutely certain it is in the correct location, not damaged, and touched by exposed wires or metal, put a piece of masking tape on it and move to the next one. In this way you can put the cabling out of the equation and move on the the small wires.
It's tedious but effective. You can have a beer while you do it but not so many you get cavalier about your inspection.
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:06 PM   #52
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

batteries are putting out 10.6 and a total 60.5
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:13 PM   #53
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

Plenty of juice, looks like you need to return that crappy meter I sent you ~ lol
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:15 PM   #54
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

i have my buddy here now. all the components in the back seem fine as far as power. checking wiring now.
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:20 PM   #55
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

2 heads are better than one ~ LOL
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:30 PM   #56
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

I'm not a betting man, but if I was, I'd bet you a million bucks that the On-Board computer is fried. It provides a ground to the controller, which provides a ground to the solenoid. It's Providing it enough to make it attempt to run, hence the reverse buzzer sound (Also controller by the controller) My assumption is that you've got a bad internal connection on the ground side of the on-board computer and it's not allowing a strong enough ground signal to get to the controller. I've seen this plenty of times. Does the solenoid click at all? Often times with this problem, the solenoid will click upon releasing the accel pedal, but disengage when it's depressed. Backwards...... Let me know. By the way, if ScottyB sent you a Regen2 controller you've definitely got the right controller. The Regen1 was not available in 99. Also, the elimination/non-elimination of the Regen braking by PQ is irrelevant. The cart has got to get up to speed before this even plays a part in the whole scheme of things.
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Unread 06-22-2011, 08:44 PM   #57
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

dawg, thanks for joining in we can sure use the help...............why is the reagan coil heating up that fast? any idea.......................
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Unread 06-22-2011, 09:10 PM   #58
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

the solenoid wont even click. i put the factory solenoid back in and it doesnt click either.
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Unread 06-22-2011, 10:35 PM   #59
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowman View Post
dawg, thanks for joining in we can sure use the help...............why is the reagan coil heating up that fast? any idea.......................
This happens when it's stuck in the open position. That's why I always recommend removing it when this happens. It's unnecessary anyway... When it's stuck open the current cant pass through the contactors, instead it passes through the resistor coil. That's why it gets so hot. Because the controller is trying to power the motor through the coil. Not good. That coil is supposed to only play a part in the system when the secondary solenoid is closed. It's designed to take any excess heat out of the system while the car is using the motor braking. It turned out, there wasn't enough excess heat to worry about. That's why the later Regen2 and ALL IQ cars don't have the secondary (Dynamic Braking) solenoid.
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Unread 06-22-2011, 10:37 PM   #60
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Default Re: Foward in reverse and reverse in forward

Quote:
Originally Posted by gabulldawg83 View Post
the solenoid wont even click. i put the factory solenoid back in and it doesnt click either.
I understand, It's not clicking for one of two reasons...

A. Bad Solenoid

B. No power going to solenoid to tell it to click

I'm gonna go with B. Since the solenoid is new, it's probably just fine. If the computer is shorted and doesn't provide a good solid ground to the controller, the controller can't provide a ground to the solenoid. Therefore, it won't click. I'm a little rusty with this system since I hardly ever see it anymore but I'll check out a service manual tomorrow at work and get back with you. We'll get this baby running soon I assure you.
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