Carryall I Brake Lights?

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Does anyone have the proper wiring diagram for a Carryall I? Or is the wiring for a Club Car from '99 the same?

I have a Carryall I with parking lights, turn signals, and brake lights. The turn signals work. One of my brake lights is out, even though it is the same wire and filament in the bulb as used by the turn signal. So it's a bit of a mystery.

Obviously there is some device somewhere that takes the single wire from the brake light and puts it to both turn signal wires (yellow and white), so my problem likely lies there. But I can't find that point in the harness!

Any thoughts?

These pictures from the parts microfiche seem to neglect the whole turn signal setup...

BGW

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shadowman

that might still be just a bad bulb....don,t ask me how the bulb works i don,t know but i have seen many many turn signal/brk light bulbs where either one on the other still worked ...........just change the bulb with the same type and it should be fine..........................

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Thanks, but nope, not the bulb. I used a meter and checked power on the yellow wire. I get strobing power when the turn signal is on, but not when the brake pedal is being pressed. Must be something deeper.

For the record, I tried multiple bulbs, proved they worked in the right side brake, won't work in the left side brake light....

shadowman

ok didn,t know you tried other bulbs.....you say no power in wire for brake light? best thing might be just to trace wire going backwards to see where your losing it......if other side works switch has to be good have you jabbed thur wire before socket to see if theres power to socket? if not try that it may be the socket thats bad......i have seen that before....................

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Socket is good. It's the same wire and the same terminal inside the socket that is used for both the brake and turn signal.

I refuse to jab thru the wire to find where I'm losing power, as I have found that method to be EXACTLY the way that I will lose power on that wire three years down the road!

I found my Factory Service Manual, and it's useless. Not even a wiring diagram in it, much less of the turn/brake light setup...

shadowman

something dosn,t sound right? is there anywhere to check for power between the switch and the socket??? somehow your gonna have to find a way to see if you have power back to the socket i don,t know of any other way other than testing the wire...........................

sonicj

no point in probing wires... if the turn signals use the same elements as the brake, both turn signals work but the one brake does not, the problem has to be in the turn signal. likely a bad/dirty contact is not completing the circuit to the one brake light when the switch is in the middle position.
-sj

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Sonicj, that's just what I've been figuring out for the past 2 hours!

I've been trying to find a device that splits the signal from the brake pedal to both turn signals; a relay or something.

Turns out, it's in the switch itself! I wondered why a simple turn signal would need two double-pole-double-throw (DPDT) switches, this is why.

If you look at my simple diagram, crossing between yellow and gray activates the left rear turn signal.

I found, on the bar toward the top of picture 2, a crack. You can just see it in the photo, if you look just to the right of the green wire. This prevented Gray/Black from contacting gray, activating the left rear brake light. But Yellow to gray was undisturbed, so you'd still have a working turn signal!

I simply soldered a small piece of wire across the crack, to complete the circuit to all terminals.








Oh, and pay no mind to the missing terminal in photo 1! That was my project from this morning, figuring out why the right turn signal wouldn't work! Seems the person soldering the contacts in did a pretty sad job. The terminal was there but no solder to make the contact! This little turn signal setup had a bunch of problems....

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Oh, and a final picture of the wire that jumps the break.

You can also see where I soldered a wire in (lower left) to join the missing terminal for the right rear flasher....

sonicj

werd! nice work detective!

not trying to be critical of your work, but the joint on the blue wire appears to be cold. personally, i would reflow it after a thorough cleaning with denatured alcohol and a toothbrush. but then again, im a little OCD about solder joints.

hard to tell for sure by the picture, but the corrosion on that bottom bar looks to be from residual flux not cleaned off by the original assembler. i hate when manufacturers skip this step! almost guarantees corrosion with most fluxes and makes rework VERY difficult.
-sj