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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:08 AM   #1
Not Yet Wild
 
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Default early 80's 36v club car

dont know year because serial tag is gone,trying to help an amputee guy at camp that uses his cart to get around,looks similar to mine with wiring (i have an 87)only difference i see is the f/r switch has spacers that keeps it away from the cart body and my 87 sits against the body,

the cart will go at times but then when u shut the key off it wont run for awhile then all of a sudden it will go,i only get 4 clicks not 5, clicks are louder when key is on ,faint when key is off, put a new master solenoid in and no difference,all connections are tight the f/r switch is pretty rusty i cleaned the best i could,could that have anything to do with it? i bought 5 new micro switches and was thinking of changing those also, any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated,

thanks
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:29 AM   #2
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

also ive been reading about jumping the large posts ,if it runs after jumping does that mean the solenoid is good or bad? thanks
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:34 AM   #3
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

if the cart won,t run and than you jump post on soleniod and it does run then yes its either the soleniod or the activation micro switch for that soleniod.......the F&R i would want to get all the rust off of it.....rust=sparks=fire.........take it off mark all wire locations and take it apart and clean it real good.......you should always have 5 soleniod clicks.......1= furthest left drivers side is master and the other 4 are speeds......................
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:35 AM   #4
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

I think jumping posts is a test conceived for somebody without a meter.

If a non running cart runs with the a jumper between the large solenoid posts then one of several things are wrong.
1. solenoid is bad
2. solenoid activation circuit has failed
2a. key switch is bad
2b. one of the control micro switches is bad
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:37 AM   #5
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

You could be struggling with an intermittent micro switch ..... also jack the cart up and see (or feel) which solenoid is not clicking and replace it with the working master you removed...
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:45 AM   #6
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

i tried jacking up and turning key on and listening/feeling for clicks but cant differentate which ones are clicking, how do i test with a voltmeter? i looked around the forum and couldnt find anything,thanks again
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:55 AM   #7
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
I think jumping posts is a test conceived for somebody without a meter.

If a non running cart runs with the a jumper between the large solenoid posts then one of several things are wrong.
1. solenoid is bad
2. solenoid activation circuit has failed
2a. key switch is bad
2b. one of the control micro switches is bad
scotty.............lol..............crap i own several meters and still do it that way.................try and teach an old dog new tricks ...............
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:55 AM   #8
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

also i assume the key switch is working because the 4 clicks get louder when i turn the key on so i guess they are activating the solenoids,thats y i assumed it was the master because it wouldnt move
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Unread 07-09-2011, 10:00 AM   #9
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

The difference in click sounds is with key off you hear the micros click (this does not guaranty they are working but,95% they are)... then with key on the solenoids click louder and drown out the slight micro click sound.
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Unread 07-09-2011, 10:04 AM   #10
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Default Re: early 80's 36v club car

ok so sounds like i have a bad micro switch if i am only hearing 4 clicks correct thanks again
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