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Unread 08-01-2011, 02:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

As far as "hookup"...need some help. I bought an isolated 48 to 12 reducer, 25 amp, and am only looking to hookup my stereo (already have 16 to 12 volt reducer running headlights, tail lights).
Do run to pos and neg batteries, positive and negative to radio? Do I ground to frame?
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Unread 08-02-2011, 07:44 AM   #12
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsteines View Post
As far as "hookup"...need some help. I bought an isolated 48 to 12 reducer, 25 amp, and am only looking to hookup my stereo (already have 16 to 12 volt reducer running headlights, tail lights).
Do run to pos and neg batteries, positive and negative to radio? Do I ground to frame?
Do not ground to frame . . . all grounds go to battery . .
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Unread 08-02-2011, 03:19 PM   #13
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Sorry to keep asking...but the "sleeve" or chassis from the radio will be at 12V...and the Cart frame won't be grounded, thus causing a "difference".
I get a shock if I touch the sleeve, which wont be an issue once it's installed, but when I plug in my ipod, then tough the metal frame, won't I get shocked?
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Unread 08-02-2011, 03:23 PM   #14
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Can you tell me how you hooked up? I have a 48 volt CC and bought a reducer to 12. I assume I hook pos to batt and neg to batter, then 12V's to pos and neg on the stereo. I don't think I'm supposed to "ground" to frame, but then radio "sleeve" or chassis...is 12V...and will get shocked if I touch this.
Confused, please help. thanks,
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Unread 08-02-2011, 04:06 PM   #15
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

in a nutshell, don't "ground" anything to the frame. the isolation of the frame is a key element in avoiding shock/mishaps.

no you won't get shocked. as is it now, you would have to touch 2 exposed leads/terminals to complete a circuit and receive a shock. keeping the frame isolated significantly reduces the risk of completing a circuit with you in the middle!

DO make sure you place a properly sized fuse as close to the battery as possible.
-sj
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Unread 08-02-2011, 05:31 PM   #16
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsteines View Post
Can you tell me how you hooked up? I have a 48 volt CC and bought a reducer to 12. I assume I hook pos to batt and neg to batter, then 12V's to pos and neg on the stereo. I don't think I'm supposed to "ground" to frame, but then radio "sleeve" or chassis...is 12V...and will get shocked if I touch this.
Confused, please help. thanks,
Didn't it come with directions?
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Unread 08-02-2011, 06:10 PM   #17
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

The new 48 to 12V reducer is coming in the mail today, from PowerStream, so assume directions will be in there.
I have already a small 16 to 12v one, running the headlights/tail lights installed on the I-Beam behind the driver side batteries, but many posts said this one is insufficient for a radio. Plus, didn't want the radio only pulling from 2 batteries. I didn't want to go with a separate battery, for convenience of charging. I did hook it up last weekend, but again, got "shocked" when I touched the sleeve of the stereo and another metal part of the frame. I don't want to plug in the ipod, then grab the rail and get shocked. My dad, who's and EE keeps telling me to ground to frame the isolated output of the reducer...so the frame and the stereo are both in sync (at 12V)...advice?
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Unread 08-02-2011, 07:07 PM   #18
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsteines View Post
My dad, who's and EE keeps telling me to ground to frame the isolated output of the reducer...so the frame and the stereo are both in sync (at 12V)...advice?
is the output of the reducer isolated from the input? you can do it this way safely if it is isolated. is the frame fully isolated from the traction pack or is there some leakage?

again, i would opt for fully isolating anything connected to the traction pack from the frame.
-sj
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Unread 08-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #19
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsteines View Post
The new 48 to 12V reducer is coming in the mail today, from PowerStream, so assume directions will be in there.
I have already a small 16 to 12v one, running the headlights/tail lights installed on the I-Beam behind the driver side batteries, but many posts said this one is insufficient for a radio. Plus, didn't want the radio only pulling from 2 batteries. I didn't want to go with a separate battery, for convenience of charging. I did hook it up last weekend, but again, got "shocked" when I touched the sleeve of the stereo and another metal part of the frame. I don't want to plug in the ipod, then grab the rail and get shocked. My dad, who's and EE keeps telling me to ground to frame the isolated output of the reducer...so the frame and the stereo are both in sync (at 12V)...advice?
This is not a Car!

Club Car never grounds anything to the frame!

Club Car runs separate + and - leads for all it's accessories.

Did someone ground the current reducer to the frame by mistake?

Your reducer should show that you'll connect to the main +48volt and main -48volt of your battery pack, then running from your reducer will be a separate +12v and -12volt lead to use for your accessories.
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Unread 08-02-2011, 07:42 PM   #20
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Default Re: Most Popular Voltage Reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsteines View Post
Sorry to keep asking...but the "sleeve" or chassis from the radio will be at 12V...and the Cart frame won't be grounded, thus causing a "difference".
I get a shock if I touch the sleeve, which wont be an issue once it's installed, but when I plug in my ipod, then tough the metal frame, won't I get shocked?
You should keep the sleeve of the radio separate from any metal of the chassis of your cart.
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