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Unread 08-14-2011, 05:40 PM   #1
Not Yet Wild
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Default 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

I have a 2000.5 Club car 48 Volt, Lifted, 22" tires, back seat. My daughter came in one day and said the cart wouldn't go...or she'd push the gas pedal and after a few seconds it would take off. I discovered that the White wire on the F&R switch had melted and parked it. Bought new F&R switch from local shop and now it won't move at all. Traced the white wire back to motor and dicovered it was very corroded and looked like it had gotten very hot(rusty). Upon trying to remove wire from motor, it broke the stud-insulator inside the motor. Seemed like a great time to upgrade...bought new "Plum Quick Bandit" motor. Mr. Steen at Plum Quick was very detailed on makeing sure he sent me the correct motor. Installed new motor and replace the bad(White) wire.....cart will still not move, just shakes and little aalmost vibrating. So, take the cart to local shop (Golf Cars of Arkansas) Club car certified technicians. They check all wiring to make sure I'd hooked everything up correctly, ran a diognostics check and didn't find anything wrong???? They thought it was going to be a bad controller. They said the cart would move across flat parking lot after being pushed, but if stopped it would not move on its on. After their quote for a replacement stock controller, I thought, another good time to upgrade right.... so, bought new GE 500 amp controller, new White Rogers HD solenoid, and all new 4 Gauge complete wire set. Just finished the install of all my new parts, cleaned all battery terminals, followed the wiring diagram to ensure I wired correctly, and .....Drum roll please.......... NOTHING!!!!! Cart still will not move on its on. I can push and jump on but it won't go far and its jerking as it tries to go anyway. Stopped at that point and pushed back into the garage. Didn't want to damage any new parts. Just in case this matters the new solenoid did not have any makings so I mounted it with the writing upright just like original and put positive batt. terminal on the side just like original. The other two post on top of new solenoid were posts like a batt. just smaller. This is where the 2 samll wires go(red and yellow). I had to change the wire ends to a post end style since the original wires accepted a spade style connection. Not knowing which post to connect the yellow or red wire to, I simply picked one and put other wire on the other post. My neighbor is a low voltage engineer and said that should be OK. To finish up here I'll say the solenoid clicks and sometimes to cart tries to move but won't or occasionally it will try to go backwards when in forward. It whines a little but I don't hold the pedal down but for a second or two....don't want to burn anything up. I'm at the end of my rope and over $1000 in.......Does anyone have a clue on whats wrong???? Thanks so much.
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Unread 08-14-2011, 05:49 PM   #2
The Last Moja Morani
 
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

1 question while you did all this and spent all that and took it to the pro,s did anyone check the batteries? did they load test them? what your decribing is either a dead battery pack or a bad battery dropping out under load.......get a voltage meter hook it up to the battery pack hit your pedal see how far it drops, it only takes one battery to drop underload to do that to your cart.......if it does drop under load than try and isolate which one it is or if its the whole set...............oh and welcome to BGW............................
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Unread 08-14-2011, 05:53 PM   #3
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

You could have the wrong motor for your drive system..... it's possible.

Check this diagram an tell me which drive system your cart is.....

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Unread 08-14-2011, 06:52 PM   #4
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowman View Post
1 question while you did all this and spent all that and took it to the pro,s did anyone check the batteries? did they load test them? what your decribing is either a dead battery pack or a bad battery dropping out under load.......get a voltage meter hook it up to the battery pack hit your pedal see how far it drops, it only takes one battery to drop underload to do that to your cart.......if it does drop under load than try and isolate which one it is or if its the whole set...............oh and welcome to BGW............................
Thanks for the welcome! The batteries are 2 yr? Trojans each registered 7 volts and 49 total. Under full pedal load it dropped to 40. Hope this helps?? Thanks again.
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Unread 08-14-2011, 06:56 PM   #5
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
You could have the wrong motor for your drive system..... it's possible.

Check this diagram an tell me which drive system your cart is.....


It's a series cart. Mr. Steen, the owner at Plum Quick motors asked me lots of questions to determine exactly what kind of cart I had so he'd be sure to get me the correct motor. Any other thoughts?? Thanks.
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Unread 08-14-2011, 07:00 PM   #6
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

What does the pack drop to when you try to go? 40? That is way too low, could be the whole problem?
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Unread 08-14-2011, 07:19 PM   #7
The Last Moja Morani
 
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

thats your problem, your batteries......if your only getting 7.0 volts thats no good thats a dead battery..........and dropping to 40 volts cart ain,t go...........you need batteries and your cart will be alive again............anytime you have issues with a cart you always start 1st with the most basic of things ( the batteries ) i just can,t beleive a shop didn,t start there 1st.............................
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Unread 08-14-2011, 08:02 PM   #8
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

It has been sitting for about six weeks while I ordered all the parts. It usually tested about 51 volts on a full charge. But I've never known to test nor what is a bad drop when a load is applied. What's the normal drop?? Also do I test for load in neutral, or in forward? I tested in forward when it dropped to 40 volts. Held pedal down for about 2-3 seconds. Didn't want to burn any new parts.
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Unread 08-14-2011, 08:08 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Copperhead View Post
It has been sitting for about six weeks while I ordered all the parts. It usually tested about 51 volts on a full charge. But I've never known to test nor what is a bad drop when a load is applied. What's the normal drop?? Also do I test for load in neutral, or in forward? I tested in forward when it dropped to 40 volts. Held pedal down for about 2-3 seconds. Didn't want to burn any new parts.
Hey guys, just retested again to make sure. Held pedal down a little longer 4-5 seconds and it dropped to 38. Weird thing is it's in forward but the cart tried to go backwards??? What gives??
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Unread 08-14-2011, 08:11 PM   #10
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Default Re: 2000.5 Club Car 48 Volt melted F/R switch???

yes you want it in gear when you put a load on it.............a good full battery pack after surface charge is gone should be approx 52 to 53 volts and will drop to aprrox 51 to 50 or even 49 but dropping to 40 isn,t any good..............check the water and add distilled water if needed to about 1/8 inch over lead plates then charge it and let it go until charger shuts off...........then check voltage and leave it sit 8 hours or so and check voltage again if you still have good voltage then load test...............when you put charger on you always have to let it charge until charger shuts off.......reason i mention this is you mentioned kids and i can just see them unplugging charger to ride cart.........and 4 or 5 hours charging isn,t gonna cut it...........................................
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