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Unread 09-20-2011, 12:03 PM   #1
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Default Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

Hey guys,

When I look at the pics of the heavy duty beefed up F&R switch I don't see any big difference compared to my stock one except that the 2ea plates on the back that tie the 4ea bolt together are thicker and copper. Mine are alum and about 1/16th thick. Whey can't I make my own? See pic of the heavy duty.

Thanks,

Steve
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Unread 09-20-2011, 12:17 PM   #2
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

no reason you couldn't make your own....

tips:
if you use copper that is too thick, you will run into problems. you may need to cut out some plastic and/or find thinner nuts to accommodate the added thickness.
-sj
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Unread 09-20-2011, 12:32 PM   #3
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

sj,

Thanks for your pic.. I saw your post on this sometime back. It all makes sense now, I've never seen the back of the switch until a couple of days ago.

Thanks,
Steve
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Unread 09-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #4
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R switch for 03 Series Cart

So I guess copper is more conductive? also I guess the thicker the better? it can carry more current? I'm assuming this is the only difference between a stock switch and a HD?
Steve
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Unread 09-20-2011, 01:22 PM   #5
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R switch for 03 Series Cart

Quote:
Originally Posted by caokgafamily View Post
Thanks for your pic.. I saw your post on this sometime back. It all makes sense now, I've never seen the back of the switch until a couple of days ago.
np!

Quote:
Originally Posted by caokgafamily View Post
So I guess copper is more conductive? also I guess the thicker the better? it can carry more current? I'm assuming this is the only difference between a stock switch and a HD?
Steve
yes. the thicker the better as far as current carrying capability. i just measured the bar stock i used, its roughly 3/16" thick. the stock piece is 1/16. if i were to do it again, i would probably use 1/8". i had BIG cables going into mine though, so it might not be such a problem with say 4awg or 2 awg.

my guess would be yes. i don't imagine the cams in the "HD" switch are any larger. now is a good time to break down the switch, clean everything and re-assemble. the faces of the cams can be refreshed with 400 grit or so sandpaper.
-sj
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Unread 09-20-2011, 02:12 PM   #6
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

SJ,

Thanks for the replys. I have spent sometime trying to find a post on DIY cables? I plan on redoing everything with 2 Guage, Do you know of any good post? I'm just about ready to buy my controller and I'm short on extra $.

THKS
Steve
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Unread 09-20-2011, 03:05 PM   #7
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

my opinion on cable construction differs from most on this board. personally, im in favor of crimping with a hydraulic crimper over soldering. i would check with your local battery specialty shop to see if they have a crimper you can rent for a day. i've read that West Marine stores often have a crimper available for customer use, but their materials are waaay expensive. anywho, thats my 2.

skycraft seems to have a good price on #2 link

genuinedealz has great prices on lugs link and heat shrink
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Unread 09-20-2011, 07:52 PM   #8
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

SJ,

Where did you find the copper stock?
Thks,
Steve
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Unread 09-20-2011, 08:57 PM   #9
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

i cut like 7" off a ground bus i found in my stash.

check here

your local electrical supply house probably has some.
-sj

*edit* - one more
link link
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Unread 09-20-2011, 09:17 PM   #10
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Default Re: Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

I went through the same process. The F/R switch can be upgraded easily and inexpensively. The parts breakdown information does not have details of the parts where the switch is. But it is easy to disassemble. Just remove the "C" clip on the shaft and the switch comes apart. Since the switch is not enclosed from the atsmophere the contact do need periodic cleaning by lapping. There will be scratches and corrosion on the contacts. Fortunately, the contacts are of heavy construction so the lapping down to mirror finish will be okay. Then, replacing the bars is essential. The aluminum original ones are inadequate. Copper bus bars are necessary to carry the necessary current for any upgrade.
I had C110 copper bus bars of .094 thickness made and they fit nicely. I figure they will carry about 4 times the current of the stock aluminum ones. I had some extra ones made in order to reduce the per item cost. If anyone is interested in buying a pair, let me know. donhow@msn.com
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