Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

mdlott · 02-29-2012, 02:13 PM

WW, the hollow threaded rod is actually the drag link sleeve. I used a pair of Vise Grips on the sleeve, tightly, and loosened the nut toward the rack. This will allow you to remove the tie rod end with the sleeve attached. Then take it to the bench vise. Make sure you spray everything down w/ penetrating oil first. You could replace it w/ the one you linked, but you shouldn't need to. (Or the long tie rod sleeve in the rear). My lift was supposed to include a shorter length sleeve to allow for equal turning right to left, but they left the part out. I cut appx 1/2 to 3/4" off of mine and it worked fine. Remember, the nut closest to the rack is RH thread whereas the outside tie rod thread is LH. Same w/ the long tie rod sleeve in the rear. Pass side is LH thread, and Driv side is RH thread.

mdlott · 02-29-2012, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwford

Good advice, mdlott. Sharp whack with hammer was the best way to get the spindle off the tie rod ends. Look at the picture, all the tie rod ends look like junk, so I'm ordering new ones. Going to get a new tie rod too.

How in the world do you get the tie rod end off the little rod going into the steering bellows? Rusted in there pretty good, and the whole rod rotates pretty freely into the bellows when I do any experimental twisting. I don't want to mess up the unseen parts inside the bellows. I can't really grab the tie rod end, it doesn't have a good wrenchable surface. Is the rod that goes into the bellows a "Rack and Pinion Drag Link"? I can just order one of those too if that makes the job easier. What's involve in removing and replaces that part? I can't see what is under the bellows and I didn't want to mess it up.

The reason I wondered if that's a "Rack and Pinion Drag Link" is that the part doesn't really look like my part; my part has what looks like a nut on the tie rod end, and a nut-shaped ridge on the bellows side. Here is the part, and you can see mine in the attached photo:
https://www.everythingcarts.com/p-36...drag-link.aspx

Once I get this figured out, I'll be installing lift/brakes/extension plate at full steam.

The "nut shaped ridge" is actually the jam nut and is not attached to the drage link sleeve. Remember, when you order tie rod ends, you need (2 LH threads) and (1) RH thread. Ask me how I know........

Brushpup · 02-29-2012, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdlott

The "nut shaped ridge" is actually the jam nut and is not attached to the drage link sleeve. Remember, when you order tie rod ends, you need (2 LH threads) and (1) RH thread. Ask me how I know........

Hey md,

Did replacing all this stuff improve your steering/front end performance. If so how much? mine is pretty loosey goosey.

Brushpup · 02-29-2012, 03:13 PM

oops double post.

mdlott · 02-29-2012, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brushpup

Hey md,

Did replacing all this stuff improve your steering/front end performance. If so how much? mine is pretty loosey goosey.

Absolutely. No adjustment on rack. All tie rod ends made it much better. Roughly 17 bux each.

wwford · 02-29-2012, 09:21 PM

Tried again to get that link rod loose, but still can't get a serious enough grip on the rod to loosen the nut near the bellows. Shot it with more PB, will try again tomorrow.

Ordered some tie rod ends (2 LH, 1 RH!). A buddy dropped by with a grinder and ground off the bolts on the A-arms, that's Les P in the first picture. I drilled holes in the A-arms, flipped 'em over, and bolted on the supplied bracket. Bolted on the Jake's extension plate, and the A-arms, see picture.

scottyb · 02-29-2012, 09:31 PM

Looking good a little black spray paint would go a long way towards making those shocks and the delta tower look like new.

mdlott · 02-29-2012, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwford

Tried again to get that link rod loose, but still can't get a serious enough grip on the rod to loosen the nut near the bellows. Shot it with more PB, will try again tomorrow.

Ordered some tie rod ends (2 LH, 1 RH!). A buddy dropped by with a grinder and ground off the bolts on the A-arms, that's Les P in the first picture. I drilled holes in the A-arms, flipped 'em over, and bolted on the supplied bracket. Bolted on the Jake's extension plate, and the A-arms, see picture.

Try two 3/4 wrenches. One on each nut. Traditional loosen on rack side. LH thread on tie rod side. Opposing forces will break it loose.

wwford · 03-02-2012, 09:42 PM

Ouch, Scotty! Okay, I cleaned up the suspension, painted the A-arms. Today I got the tie rod end off the steering linkage. Mdlott, you were right; I bought a honking crescent wrench, and a 3/4" regular wrench. With once wrench pinned down on the shock tower, the other wrench just rolled the jam nut right off.

I installed the Jake's spindles on the modified A-arms (modified for the Extension Plate kit, required for 22" tires on my cart). That was all extremely easy; installing the front brake kit was a little more work. Nothing complicated, but crawling around under the cart to install the master brake cylinder to the body frame was cramped. I'm curious to ask other folks who've installed the Jake's Front Disc's: the brake pads just rattle around inside the calipers, is that how they are supposed to sit?

My LH x 2 and RH tie rods ends showed up too. Thanks Mdlott, you were right about re-using the old tie rod and linkage, they are perfectly fine after cleanup.

Brushpup · 03-03-2012, 05:44 AM

Can we see a pic of your MC mounting? Just curious how that turned out.

02-29-2012, 02:13 PM	#21
mdlott Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Newnan, Jawga Posts: 41	Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v WW, the hollow threaded rod is actually the drag link sleeve. I used a pair of Vise Grips on the sleeve, tightly, and loosened the nut toward the rack. This will allow you to remove the tie rod end with the sleeve attached. Then take it to the bench vise. Make sure you spray everything down w/ penetrating oil first. You could replace it w/ the one you linked, but you shouldn't need to. (Or the long tie rod sleeve in the rear). My lift was supposed to include a shorter length sleeve to allow for equal turning right to left, but they left the part out. I cut appx 1/2 to 3/4" off of mine and it worked fine. Remember, the nut closest to the rack is RH thread whereas the outside tie rod thread is LH. Same w/ the long tie rod sleeve in the rear. Pass side is LH thread, and Driv side is RH thread.

02-29-2012, 03:13 PM	#24
Brushpup Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: West Tx Posts: 282	Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v oops double post.

02-29-2012, 09:31 PM	#27
scottyb Carts Unlimited Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 46,382	Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v Looking good a little black spray paint would go a long way towards making those shocks and the delta tower look like new.

03-03-2012, 05:44 AM	#30
Brushpup Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: West Tx Posts: 282	Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v Can we see a pic of your MC mounting? Just curious how that turned out.

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