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Unread 03-19-2012, 11:32 AM   #61
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Scotty, I've accumulated some wiring questions:

1.) I have some stainless bolts w/nylon lock nuts I'm planning on using to hold cables to controller, is that okay?

2.) What gauge wire do you recommend from solenoid small terminals to controller and pot microswitch?

3.) Does it matter which key switch wire goes to solenoid and which goes to pot microswitch?

4.) Is an inline fuse recommended on wire from charger receptacle to battery pack? If so, on the negative battery pack wire or the positive?

5.) Bonus question: I want to put in a hidden kill switch to disable motor but not power to the fuse box. Can I put a switch on the line from the key switch to the solenoid? Something like this marine on/off rocker switch:

http://www.iboats.com/Standard-Non-I...view_id.168250
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Unread 03-19-2012, 12:18 PM   #62
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Quote:
Originally Posted by wwford View Post
Scotty, I've accumulated some wiring questions:

1.) I have some stainless bolts w/nylon lock nuts I'm planning on using to hold cables to controller, is that okay?
NO, nylon lockers will melt if they get hot.
2.) What gauge wire do you recommend from solenoid small terminals to controller and pot microswitch?
14g
3.) Does it matter which key switch wire goes to solenoid and which goes to pot microswitch?
The key switch has no polarity, no.
4.) Is an inline fuse recommended on wire from charger receptacle to battery pack? If so, on the negative battery pack wire or the positive?
good idea CC used a 30amp fuse you can find one in the autoparts house and put it at the battery, although you should already have one on your stock charge receptacle?
5.) Bonus question: I want to put in a hidden kill switch to disable motor but not power to the fuse box. Can I put a switch on the line from the key switch to the solenoid? Something like this marine on/off rocker switch:
Yes you can interrupt power to the potentiometer micro switch
http://www.iboats.com/Standard-Non-I...view_id.168250
hope this helps
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Unread 03-20-2012, 09:43 PM   #63
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

I'm anxious to start wiring, but I'm worried about the wires and heat-shrink terminal ends I bought at Lowe's and Autozone. Anyone have any experience with such? I don't want to have to re-do terminal ends in four months, or have any performance issues. I've gotten the recommended gauges on the wires (10 ga, 14 ga, 16 ga), but they look less beefy than the stock stuff.

I've stocked up on electrolytic grease to use in the terminal ends, per Scotty's suggestion.

I still have all the receipts, should I return the stuff and get marine stuff, or is it all the same? By the way, these aren't for the main cables, I ordered a complete set of 2 gauge wires from Scotty for that.
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Unread 03-20-2012, 11:41 PM   #64
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Those stay-cons and wire will work just fine. Just be sure to protect exposed terminal ends as you already know. The wiring on the cart may look beefer but that is probablydo to the jacket (plastic/rubber) around the wire being thicker.
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Unread 03-21-2012, 08:58 AM   #65
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

not sure if you guys have ever used this but when i make a connection with wire to wire or a new ring terminal a great way to make it last if you don,t have that tubing you apply heat to and shrink fit it ...........i use liquid electrical tape it comes in several colors and makes a moisture proof seal.....you can do the same thing with liquid rubber in a can, they offer more colors but if you take your time and do it right it looks factory and last forever.............................
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Unread 03-22-2012, 04:58 PM   #66
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Just cut holes for the new headlights and taillights. The body is going to the painter this weekend, so I wanted to get the holes cut. I set the body back on the frame for photos and to make sure everything that I'd installed so far still fit. I know it's dirty! I've been busy. I took off the old no-step fender guards and will have the painter fill in the holes.

I searched the Internets all over, looking for the headlight/taillight kit I liked best. I want to be street legal, but since I'm in MS, I don't even know if there is such thing. Finally I decided to get a set that came pre-wired ready for the addition of turn signals and brake pedal switch later. This set came from site sponsor Trademark Carts, and was a decent price, $89 with free shipping. The on/off switch is little underwhelming, but I'll just get a new one. The rest of the parts feel nice and solid, and the wiring harness is awesome. I really like the way it looks installed.

http://trademarkcarts.com/product/15...l-light-ccbblk

I'm also going to cut some speaker holes before getting the body painted, even though my marine sound system kit is back ordered. Hope I cut the right size! After reading a bunch of posts, I decided to put the holes on the top of the rear fenders, right behind the seat facing up.
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File Type: jpg newHeadlights.jpg (62.3 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg newTaillights.jpg (76.4 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 03-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #67
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Looks good . . coming along nice . .
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Unread 03-23-2012, 06:25 AM   #68
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Quote:
Originally Posted by wwford View Post
I'm anxious to start wiring, but I'm worried about the wires and heat-shrink terminal ends I bought at Lowe's and Autozone. Anyone have any experience with such? I don't want to have to re-do terminal ends in four months, or have any performance issues. I've gotten the recommended gauges on the wires (10 ga, 14 ga, 16 ga), but they look less beefy than the stock stuff.

I've stocked up on electrolytic grease to use in the terminal ends, per Scotty's suggestion.

I still have all the receipts, should I return the stuff and get marine stuff, or is it all the same? By the way, these aren't for the main cables, I ordered a complete set of 2 gauge wires from Scotty for that.
Looking great Man!!

I really like the shrink wrap terminal ends. They are expensive, but work really well if you ask me. Not sure about your wire, but it looks like building wire....? Not that it wont work but if that's what it is, it is really stiff stuff. I don't know what others will say, but for the smaller stuff, I've redone a few of mine with 14 and 16 Ga primary wire. Auto parts stores have it, but not in as many colors as my Ace Hardware where you can buy it by the foot. It is made for wiring cars/trucks, and trailers....very flexible and easier to work with. Your inline charginf fuse should be on your charge receptical already.

Love the lights.
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Unread 03-23-2012, 06:35 AM   #69
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brushpup View Post
Looking great Man!!

I really like the shrink wrap terminal ends. They are expensive, but work really well if you ask me. Not sure about your wire, but it looks like building wire....? Not that it wont work but if that's what it is, it is really stiff stuff. I don't know what others will say, but for the smaller stuff, I've redone a few of mine with 14 and 16 Ga primary wire. Auto parts stores have it, but not in as many colors as my Ace Hardware where you can buy it by the foot. It is made for wiring cars/trucks, and trailers....very flexible and easier to work with. Your inline charginf fuse should be on your charge receptical already.

Love the lights.
The difference in wire being "stiff" or "flexible" is not because its building wire. It has to do if the wire is solid or stranded. (Solid is without the insulation 1 wire where Stranded uses multiple stands to equal the same rating for the wire) So, solid wire is stiff compared to is counter part stranded wire.
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Unread 03-23-2012, 09:29 AM   #70
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Default Re: Upgrading a 1999 Club Car DS to 48v

All the wire in the cart needs to be automotive type wire. Household wire is high voltage/low amperage stuff. The wire requirements for DC is different than AC because of the high amperage/low voltage.
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