Electric Club Car wont Go-2

banjoman

I'm having a similar problem as Tee2green 2003. I have a 1999 club car that stopped running. I tugged around on the wires and it started going again but acted like it was "cutting in and out" like shorting. I made it back home( I use this on a farm) but now it won't go.
Batteries read over 50 volts, I have checked and cleaned all connections and the back up buzzer is strong. It clicks twice when I engage the pedal. The first one is louder than the second and then after I release the pedal it clicks again.
Thanks for your help

Larry

BGW

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scottyb

Just because a solenoid 'clicks' does not mean it is good. It can still be not making contact....some guys test them with a voltmeter and some test them by using a jumper wire to bypass the solenoid by connecting the 2 large terminals.

roady89

Welcome to BGW!

Did you fix these connections? Fix these connections and your problem may go away.

P.S. Please don't hyjack someone eles thread. Start a new topic.

rusty

Welcome to the forum banjoman.....................

banjoman

I just tested the solenoid for continuity(across the big terminals). As soon as the pedal was pressed it showed continunity and my light on my checker went off as soon as the pedal was released. So I assume I don't have a bad solenoid. Do you think I still might have a bad connection even though the batteries read over 50 volts. Or it could be in the controller?

Thanks for all your help
Larry

rusty

Pull all of the battery connections and clean them. The slightest bit of continuity will show 50 volts on your battery pack..... But..... it will not measure the current needed as in heavy amps. The only way to test for heavy current usage is to clean connections and jumper the 2 big terminals on the solenoid with an extra battery cable (a large wire) and make it run.

Only One dirty connection can cause your problem.

Also, a test light will not properly test a solenoid. (unless you can make it draw 30 or more amps.)

banjoman

Jumped the two poles of the solenoid with a battery cable. Nothing happened. So I started over with the first things that I thought I repaired and continued on. I found a weak terminal. The same terminal that I had shook and got the cart running again when this first happened. I tried to tighen the terminal the same torque as all the rest and it actually broke off. There in lies my problem. I will get a new battery Monday and let you guys know how it goes.
thanks again for all your help and insistence on loose or bad connections

Larry

roady89

You can drill and tap the lead to accept a stud. Don't use a bolt because the lead is soft and the threads will strip easy.


Dont drill where the old stud was, drill in the center of the pad right next to that.

banjoman

I am running again. Went to my local club car dealer and purchased a used battery. Got to check load voltage and it looked good. It matched well with my 2.5 year old set.
Thanks for all your help and advice. You saved me from having to haul this farm golf cart to the shop. A note of humor on this is that my wife and I got out our bikes to get around on the farm while cart was down. It hard to carry tools to repair fences on a pair of bikes but we made it work
Thanks again
Larry