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Unread 07-10-2012, 01:32 PM   #11
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 14
Default Re: Club Car 48 volt need schematic

nope, that isn't voltage its resistance, appears the 48 volts is just to energize the relay, then the resistance from the pot. inside the foot switch turns on and off switching scr's inside the control box, so its either a bad pot, or that what controls the pot. or a bad controller. since the resistance on the three wires, ( black center tap) doesn't change, I am assuming that the actuater that turns the pot itslef is broken, we will see.
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Unread 07-10-2012, 04:11 PM   #12
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Default Re: Club Car 48 volt need schematic

To test performance at terminals 2 and 3, disconnect the positive terminal at battery #1, take a jumper wire from the disconnected green wire (from controller terminal 2) to the #1 battery + terminal. Put the fwd/rev lever in fwd. take the multimeter set to 200VDC and place the red probe on the disconnected yellow wire (from controller terminal 3) and the black probe on the controller B-. With the accelerator at rest there should be no voltage. Depress the accel. and voltage should increase progressively to +- battery voltage. If you then put the fwd/rev lever in Reverse and perform the same test you should get reduced voltage readings due to the Half Speed resistor in the circuit.
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Unread 07-10-2012, 07:09 PM   #13
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Default Re: Club Car 48 volt need schematic

500K to zero from wiper to both ends verified the pot inside the foot pedal worked, problem is the controller, confirmed by tearing apart and seeing blown scr's, and diodes, anyone have a source for new or used 700 amp, I put in an original 225 amp and it works, this unit has the upgraded motor, computer, and controller, I have the original to trade that all works.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 08:30 AM   #14
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Default Re: Club Car 48 volt need schematic

I used a swing meter to verify the pot inside the foot switch was working at 3 pin plug, once certain the controller was bad, and no place to send it, I tore into it, I found several bad scr's or fets, not sure, but I recognize the numbers and can get the parts, if I can ID there bias resistors, I know as a tech, these all have ratings, I bet I can make a better unit for the same price I can repair one, i.e. use higher amp units, so they run cooler, I need to figure out if there is a market to repair them, I am willing if there is. TV repair is gone, industrial troubleshooting is slow. send to Brock Electronics 5208 cr 3375 Independence Ks. 67301, or call , 620-331-0235 I'll give it a shot, no bench fee and no garontee. all your out is shipping, send all the contact info inside taped to the unit so I can let you know if I can repair it, obviously I now have a cart to test it on.
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