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Unread 08-23-2012, 01:47 PM   #1
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Default Electrical Woes...

Ok guys, another guy started a thread about voltage reducers, and I have some questions.

I've purchased two in the past couple of months and both were toast in less than a week. The second one in less than an hour.

Here's my setup:

JVC Radio
Sirus XM
12V Accessory plug (lighter)
12V Strobes
12V Standard golf cart lighting / LED Tails

Here's my thoughts: (And what I did the other day.)

I've been running all of that off of the 12V of two combine batteries and I've noticed those two are weaker than the rest of the pack. So I devised a plan because the other issue is when the wife or friends use my cart they wind up leaving something on, and sometimes it drains the battery. This is bad.

So I wanted everything to be OFF when the key is not on. This way I can ensure there is no draw on the battery except for the constant from the radio to keep my programmed stations.

I had a relay (12/24/36/48V) I used in a bagged truck that ran my compressors off of a switch. I've done this before with no issue in that scenario but it's all 12V...

My plan was to power all of my accessories by utilizing my key switch to activate the relay and provide power to everthing once the cart is turned on, much like in a real car.

So I got to work basically rewiring the entire cart.

Ideally, I'd like to have the key activate the relay engergizing the power system and then I have a switch for my lights, strobes. The radio has it's own built in power obviously.

I bought a fuse panel with 4 fuse ports.

So I got it all wired up actually thinking that the key switch worked off of 12V instead of 36V and then I was like... oh.... crap.

Everything was working beautifully until I realized this. The relay seemed very warm. It is meant for up to 48V but I didn't like that it was getting so warm.

Then I had an idea.

The second voltage reducer I bought is only rated at 5A. (Not much I know.)

So I thought ok, I can set that to power my relay, and then I'm good to go.

Well in my haste and wires running all over the place, I must have connected the radio ground to the voltage reducers ground on the 12V side.

So once I flopped my constant (memory) radio wire to the + side of my pack... POOF. Brand new radio toasted with 36V.

I think it toasted the reducer too. So that one might be my fault.

I even had fuses inline and they didn't blow! And the radio fuse didn't blow on the back! WTH?

Anyways. So I basically out of fear and uncertainty I took the relay out of the equation, and went back to using the two batteries.

What I need is a GOOD RELIABLE reducer with a decent AMP rating, something that can handle all my goodies, and I think I need a 36V relay with a good AMP rating. and I can make it work out fine the way I want.

Any thoughts or anyone see a flaw in my plan? Other than me sabotaging it by mis-connecting wires? LOL

Any other guys already do this?

Let me know what you think.

Thanks!
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Unread 08-23-2012, 01:51 PM   #2
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Default Re: Electrical Woes...

When the time comes for me to need something to run any accessories I add, I will just go with a dedicated 12v battery. I want my pack to have one job and that's run the cart.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 01:53 PM   #3
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Default Re: Electrical Woes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by erict View Post
When the time comes for me to need something to run any accessories I add, I will just go with a dedicated 12v battery. I want my pack to have one job and that's run the cart.

I totally Argree
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Unread 08-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: Electrical Woes...

I thought about that, but that poses two new challenges:

1. Find a place for it.
2. Charging it seperately.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 04:04 PM   #5
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Default Re: Electrical Woes...

I have a theory. Those power reducers that take 16v from 2 batteries and drop it down to 12v are always blamed for pulling down the 2 batteries they are connected to. And for good reason, they DO pull those down.

Why? Because that friggin' reducer is constantly on! It's hard-wired to the batteries!

I would be willing to bet that if you hooked up a relay, connected it to your key switch, and had the voltage reducer only come on when the key was switched to the "on" position, I bet those two batteries would experience a lot less "pull down"...
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Unread 08-24-2012, 04:22 PM   #6
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Default Re: Electrical Woes...

You will need a reducer that is oversized for the job and is switched on/off or use a relay to switch it.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 05:20 PM   #7
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Default Re: Electrical Woes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
You will need a reducer that is oversized for the job and is switched on/off or use a relay to switch it.
I agree Scotty. He needs to have a converter of at least 25amps. You are far better off spending the $100-$130 for a good converter..
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