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Old 09-26-2012, 10:09 AM   #11
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Yes, move the red wire over to the yellow wire. Or, simply jack the rear of the cart up, so both tires are off the ground. Then, use a wrench to short the terminals. Then, have assistant bonehead step on the accelerator pedal.

Do the wheels spin? Confirmed bad solenoid. Did the wrench get hot? Confirmed you should have worn gloves.

Hopefully your cart isn't as dirty as mine when it was returned to me:

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Old 09-26-2012, 11:10 AM   #12
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

I can do that. I"ll try that and report back.

If it is the solenoid, since we do a lot of towing with this cart, would it hurt to put a larger solenoid in? The current one is the stock one, which is a 75 amp solenoid. If i put a 200 amper in, would there be any benefit?

"Assistant Bonehead" I like that :)
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:56 AM   #13
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

put it this way if it is solenoid its not gonna hurt it at all to go to a HD one and if you do tow with it yes i would go at least 200 amp......................
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:02 PM   #14
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Good deal. Maybe this won't happen again, then. Low voltage or current would explain why the controller hums so quietly when I hit the gas... And... Come to think of it... It's almost like a capacitor is discharging, because I can hit it, and it'll try hard for a split second, and stop. Then if I wait a second or two, it's a weaker jerk, but if I wait 10 or 20 seconds it's just as strong. So that would mean either the solenoid isn't opening because of bad computer signal ( which, I think I outrulled by bypassing the OBC), or bad solenoid. Controller is likely good then, right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Club-Car-Gol...item3a703a685b Would this guy do the job well?
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:38 PM   #15
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonTamer View Post
Good deal. Maybe this won't happen again, then. Low voltage or current would explain why the controller hums so quietly when I hit the gas... And... Come to think of it... It's almost like a capacitor is discharging, because I can hit it, and it'll try hard for a split second, and stop. Then if I wait a second or two, it's a weaker jerk, but if I wait 10 or 20 seconds it's just as strong. So that would mean either the solenoid isn't opening because of bad computer signal ( which, I think I outrulled by bypassing the OBC), or bad solenoid. Controller is likely good then, right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Club-Car-Golf-Carts-48-Volt-Heavy-Duty-200-amp-Continuous-800-Amp-Peak-Solenoid-/250990979163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a703a 685b Would this guy do the job well?
The purpose of the resistor is to keep the controller's capacitors charged. This is to prevent a large arc ( what you experienced when you jumped the solenoid ) at the solenoids contacts when it engages. The cart will operate without the resistor, but the contacts in the solenoid will be damaged in time. Hope this helps!
The lunge is the capacitors discharging through the motor windings. Since there is no B+ power ( open solenoid ) to run the motor, it immediately stops. Letting the cart sit recharges the capacitors again and the process repeats. :)
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:32 PM   #16
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

You need batteries, what you describe is what my 95 did when I had bad batteries also you may want to check your f-r switch to make sure that is is ok may be deformed from high amp draw when plugged into reverse.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:56 PM   #17
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Solenoid is indeed shot.

We have a 275 amp controller, so would a 200 amp solenoid be good, or should we go ahead and get something that can handle 300 constant at 48 volts?
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:07 PM   #18
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Bigger is always better, but the cost difference is totally up to you. The stock controller will probably be the next thing to go. I use my cart to tow also and haven't had any great problems yet. I did have the F-R switch go bad. Mines a series cart and all the current goes through the F-R. If you contemplate upgrading your cart, I would start with a heavy duty set of cables, heavy duty solenoid, and heavy duty F-R switch ( if your switch has a lever by your right knee ). These are the most inexpensive items and you'll need all of these to upgrade a controller anyway.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:16 PM   #19
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Definitely going to upgrade wiring soon... Like... Friday. The F/R switch doesn't have any real power hitting it, it goes into the OCB/Controller. I imagine the controller isn't going to like the extra load, though. Just want to make it as easy as possible for it to get the power it needs for the motor to tow... It's about 1500 pounds of gear, and mostly offroad stuff up small inclines. It seems to handle it well, so far. Solenoid was the result of a bonehead :)
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:51 AM   #20
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Default Re: Electric Club Car Clicks, and moves for a split second, then stops

Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonTamer View Post
The F/R switch doesn't have any real power hitting it, it goes into the OCB/Controller. Solenoid was the result of a bonehead :)
Not true. The F/R switch has full pack voltage/amps running thru it. Here's a pic of one, after being smoked. Note the thin aluminum bus bars in the OEM switch, and melted plastic:



Fortunately, there is a HD F/R switch. Several, actually. TahoeDawgZ71 told me about this one, the Club Car 36v F&R Switch Assembly, part no. 1011997. Best of all, it only costs $44. Here's a pic of one. Note the solid copper bus bars:



This needs to be converted over to use on a 48v cart. Take those 2 aluminum bus bars from the OEM switch, and put them across the bottom of the new switch, as shown in this picture. These aluminum bars will only be used for reverse.

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