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Unread 10-15-2012, 08:52 PM   #11
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Default Re: ID fried wire

Sorry, I was being a smartazz!

Seriously, though, I would do a small amount of troubleshooting to be sure of what's happening, before throwing parts at any cart.

I'm assuming your cart still doesn't move when you step on the pedal, as you had posted in some other threads?

Start with this: When you try to go, and step on the accelerator pedal, do you hear a click at the solenoid? If so, then your solenoid activation circuit is good. If no, you may have some other problem.

If you heard a click, try this: take off the large yellow wire from the solenoid, move it over to the red terminal, just for a moment, as a test. Does the cart now function properly? If so, we have confirmed a bad solenoid.
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Unread 10-15-2012, 09:02 PM   #12
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Default Re: ID fried wire

Wish I'd seen this post sooner. If you change that resistor and ONLY that resistor you're gonna need a new one in about 5 minutes. The reason your resistor got burnt is because there's an open short somewhere past it in the electrical system. It's either in the controller or the motor. 9 times out of 10 on a Precedent it's the controller. A little lesson on how that resistor works... When the solenoid turns off or "Opens" minimal power is allowed to pass around the solenoid via the pre-charge resistor in order to keep the capacitors in the controller charged up at all times. This helps to dampen the blow of power to the controller when the solenoid closes. It's a safety feature to prolong the life of the controller. When a short develops in the controller or motor it demands more amperage than the pre-charge resistor will allow, therefore it gets hot and cooks. Here's what you need to do. Put car in TOW, unhook both the main Pos and Neg battery cables. Unhook all 4 wires on the electric motor. Grab your multimeter and perform a continuity test on the motor. Check for continuity between A1 and A2. You should have 100% continuity there. Now do the same between F1 and F2. You should have 100% there as well. If you don't have it, your motor is bad. Also, check for continuity between all four posts separately to the case/shell of the motor. You should NOT have continuity between any motor post and the case/shell. If you do, the motor is bad and that's where your short is coming from. If the motor passes the test reinstall the wires and order a new controller along with the pre-charge resistor.
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Unread 10-15-2012, 10:08 PM   #13
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Default Re: ID fried wire

since I have determined that the batteries are not putting out more than 28 volts, could it be that the resistor and the solenoid are bad, not the controller or moter? I am getting a little mixed message going on.
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Unread 10-15-2012, 10:09 PM   #14
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Default Re: ID fried wire

I know you were kidding, it's all good to pick on your newbees. Thanks for the help.
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Unread 10-15-2012, 10:14 PM   #15
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Default Re: ID fried wire

Whoa! First I heard of only 28 volts...

How are you determining that?

Trust David, he's a real sharp guy.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 02:50 PM   #16
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Default Re: ID fried wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by golfdude View Post
since I have determined that the batteries are not putting out more than 28 volts, could it be that the resistor and the solenoid are bad, not the controller or moter? I am getting a little mixed message going on.
You're only showing 28 volts because it's been smoldering for so long it's discharged the pack. Try the test in my above message and post results.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 07:30 PM   #17
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Thumbs down Re: ID fried wire

I have continuity between both F1 and F2 and H1 and H2. Is there a way to test the controller before ordering one. Also what controller would you put in a stock cart

I tested the batteries by connecting to the positive on battery 1 and the negative on battery 4. That is where I got the 28 volt number.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 10:01 PM   #18
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Default Re: ID fried wire

You have choices and it depends on what you want to do in the future. Ifyou want to stay stock you could probably find a used controller cheap or a new one for a little more that would be an identical replacement.

If at some point you intend to upgrade the motor it would be a good time to get an aftermarket controller such as the Alltrax and a HD solenoid to go with it. When you get the solenoid get the one recommended by alltrax for whatever controller you get and do not forget to make sure you order the correct diode and resistor for the solenoid.

Pretty sure your cart is IQ and that would require an Alltrax DCX preferrably the 500 amp controller. Just verify what you have but I am pretty sure its IQ.
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Unread 10-16-2012, 10:41 PM   #19
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Default Re: ID fried wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by golfdude View Post
I have continuity between both F1 and F2 and H1 and H2. Is there a way to test the controller before ordering one. Also what controller would you put in a stock cart

I tested the batteries by connecting to the positive on battery 1 and the negative on battery 4. That is where I got the 28 volt number.
H1 and H2? Don't you mean A1 and A2? I've never seen a motor labeled "H"

And as for the controller test. You just tested it. It's bad. It's the only other component that can cause your symptoms. Your motor is good. Your controller is not.
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