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Unread 11-04-2012, 03:37 PM   #11
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Default Re: What else?

My battery numbers are 52 .7 ish when full and drops to 49 ish then comes back up . And id bet the house its the tires. New dot approved stock size tire is only 40 bucks!!
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Unread 11-04-2012, 03:44 PM   #12
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Default Re: What else?

I'm going to check the pressure. I think they may have too much air in them. Sidewall says 22lbs and I'm betting that's what discount tire put in them. My other tires were much lower pressure


Regarding batts I'm reading 8.4 per battery. They've only been charged 3 times now. Will read them again tomorrow to see how they fair.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 03:55 PM   #13
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Default Re: What else?

Link to state of charge

State of Charge Readings
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Unread 11-04-2012, 04:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedchaser View Post
Link to state of charge

State of Charge Readings
According to that my pack isn't doing to bad at 50.4 then. Thanks.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 05:05 PM   #15
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Well I figured out the bumpy wheel issue I think.

Took the front end somewhat apart and discovered that the drivers side of the jakes 3" spindle lift has a loose bolt in it allowing it to jiggle all over the place. I've tried to tighten it to no avail so I'm guessing the bolt is stripped some how. To further complicate matters the grease zero ripped out when I went to pull the grease gun off of it completely destroying threads.

I'll have to call jakes tomorrow to see what I can do about both items. Hopefully getting this item squared away fixes the front end hop up though.


Edit: just took the drivers side spindle completely apart, checked it and reinstalled and it just won't get tight. I'm not sure what could be the issue but I am starting to think its been like this ever since the installer put it on. The other side seems pretty tight and the fit seems just fine but this one looks to have an issue. I'm hoping that it can be fixed by just replacing a part or two from the kit and it looks like this might fix my bouncing issue. Fingers crossed.

Here is the passenger side:


Here is the driver side:


If you look at these, the central bolt running vertically has the spring holder welded onto the bottom and a lock nut on top. This is nice and tight on the passenger side so there isn't any slop in the joints, but on the driver side there is a 1/8 inch of play and I can't get it any tighter even with tightening the nut. I notice that there is more bolt protruding above the nut on this side too. The only thing I was thinking is that maybe a large washer would help to snug up the fitting to take out the slop that I am suspecting is causing the bumpy front end. Not sure but will check with Jakes when they open tomorrow.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 07:19 PM   #16
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Default Re: What else?

Okay another update. I put two large washers between the spindle arm and the upper spring mount on the drivers side and it seems to have taken out the play and tightened it up similar to the passenger side. I'm hoping that this will take out the movement and clunking that I'm thinking might be causing my tire bounce issues. Will see tomorrow when I can get the tires back on and test drive it.

If so, then I'll just need to find out grease fitting thread size and grab a replacement fitting.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 07:24 PM   #17
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Default Re: What else?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedchaser View Post
Go here as it has the best desrciptions of motor options that I have found.

http://www.golfcarttrader.com/Electr...Club%20Car.htm

Also, GE does not make golf cart motors anymore and instead you would go with an Advance brand motor. And remember whoever you get a motor from that there is a difference between peak hp and sustainable hp as well as rpm. Advance motors are usually rated for sustainable hp while most others advertise peak. A 5hp sustainable might actually peak around 28hp.
Per your link, all of their motors are rated in peak. ????
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Unread 11-04-2012, 08:09 PM   #18
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Per your link, all of their motors are rated in peak. ????
Not all of them, the ones that state peak are but the others are rated at sustainable hp. The one lable "eye opener" is the one I had in the GE version.

What I like about that site is they give a good descriotion of the type performance you should expect.

Basically the higher the hp at lower rpm will give greater torque and the higher hp at higher rpms will give the most speed and a torque boost over stock.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 08:51 PM   #19
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Have you seen any of their motors outperforming their ratings? Ie My d&d vic said would go 23 ish but it goes almost 29??

You got me wondering now, is it hp or rpm thats getting me my speed? I need to do the math and see how many rpm the motor is turning with stock tires at 29 mph..
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Unread 11-04-2012, 08:56 PM   #20
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The motor I git from them did what they advertised.

Based on the motor I have used and their rpm ratings I thinking about 204 to 230 rpms per mile per hour.
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