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Unread 01-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #1
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Default Bad Master Cylinder?

Took the cart to get the (typically difficult) 4 wheel disk brakes bled. They hooked up a pressure bleeder that pressurizes the supply lines to the MC and then simply open the calipers until bubbles stop and steady stream of fluid is flowing (right?)........NOT! Pressurized and no fluid coming through the calipers - in fact after proving MC is getting fluid - the MC had no fluid exiting to the calipers. Strange......... And I am told the MC is bad? I believe them.....fluid incoming and nothing exiting.......but am stumped - why would an MC go bad? Is this typical?

This system has been challenging to bleed from day one - perhaps ths one was bad from the start?

I ordered another - but want to understand more about this one - the manufacturer says it is rebuildable - can they diagnose the problem when rebuilding it? Any idea where to have it rebuilt?

Any help here is appreciated - I am not very knowledgable about brakes!

OT
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Unread 01-05-2013, 02:29 PM   #2
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

Forget the pressure-bleeding.Bleed the master cyl.first.Slowly push the pedal,while someone cracks the line loose coming out of it.Usually it takes 3 or 4 times to purge it.Or you can "Bench-Bleed" it,Clamp it in a vise,plug the fluid-ports,fill the reservoir,slowly pump the piston with a screwdriver(slow even short-strokes(don't bottom it out),it will gradually get harder to compress,repeat until it barely moves.Then reinstall.Then,pump the pedal fully and slowly(biggest mistake is fast pumping).After a few pumps,start with your farthest-wheel,just like a car,have someone crack the bleeder,while you slowly,fully depress the pedal.Repeat for the other 3-wheels.After this,now do a regular-bleed at each wheel until the fluid is clear of air.Another trick is to get a oil-can(hand-pump style).hook a piece of hose to it,connect it to the bleeders 1 at a time,and pump the fluid back to the master until the bubbles stop.What grade fluid are you using?Dot-5 can be a real pain to bleed,but doesn't eat paint since its' silicone.Hope this helps.
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Unread 01-05-2013, 04:03 PM   #3
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

Rebuilding a new MC would consist of putting a new seal(s) in it? I guess it is possible it was defective or compromised during manufacture OR some contaminate has entered the system? Your best bet is to call the manufacture. They will know of any trouble with this MC. I have not heard of any nor have we had any problem with the 3 systems I have. I will PM you that number.
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Unread 01-05-2013, 05:55 PM   #4
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

I went through same issues a few times, install and bleed... manufacture told me it was a bad mc, I had a freind come over and pump the brake pedal while I did each cylinder, and the brakes work, about an hour later. It is the old fashion way, but it has worked on seven carts so far that I have installed four wheel disk brakes.
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:09 PM   #5
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

I have power bled these brakes successfully 2 times previously but now - when fluid is pressured into the MC I am not getting any fluid out of the MC - like the seal inside is swollen or something.
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:13 PM   #6
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

IS your stroke correct? What type of fluid have you used?
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:16 PM   #7
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

I believe I have only introduced dot 3 - but initial fabbing trials did not have stroke very well aligned - that was only a few strokes and without fluid.
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:19 PM   #8
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

I wonder if the tubing I am using from the reservoir to the MC could have chemically reacted and created a sludge byproduct inside the MC ?
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:20 PM   #9
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

see your PM
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Unread 01-05-2013, 06:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Bad Master Cylinder?

a few strokes and without fluid. I believe you have to get it on the bench and tilt it to purge it.
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