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Unread 04-24-2013, 07:11 PM   #31
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

Well, she is almost complete. I still need to get seats and I either have a bad solenoid or a bad switch. It operates OK but it takes off a little quicker than it should. Not anything that keeps it from cruising but mildly aggravating just the same. I can't complain, at this point I still have just over 1K in the cart including batteries. Sweat equity goes a long way, not to mention buddies that can get you a discount on batteries and paint.

Here are a few pics for where I have gotten thus far:





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Unread 04-25-2013, 03:37 PM   #32
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

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Originally Posted by KtownCC View Post
75/90, 80/90 or GL-5, synthetic or not. Any of these will work fine, basically any standard weight gear lube should suffice.



I am going to get a voltage reducer but for now I just wired them to the positive on battery #1 and the neg on battery #2, works fine. I am not planning on using the lights much so it would probably be fine as is but I am going to do the reducer in case I get a radio.
When you say "just wired them to the positive on....", I assume you also meant to say the red came from the + side of the fuse blk behind the dash and the blk came from the - side of the fuse blk correct?

Sorry to be so picky but....Thanks again for the advice. Your cart sure does look nice!!
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Unread 04-25-2013, 09:08 PM   #33
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

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When you say "just wired them to the positive on....", I assume you also meant to say the red came from the + side of the fuse blk behind the dash and the blk came from the - side of the fuse blk correct?

Sorry to be so picky but....Thanks again for the advice. Your cart sure does look nice!!
I just ran the red to the + post on battery 1 and the black to the - post on battery 2. If I were going to run the lights quite a bit it would put more drain on those 2 batteries but as little as I will run them I am sure it will make no difference. That being said, I will still probably get a reducer pretty soon.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 02:44 PM   #34
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

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I just ran the red to the + post on battery 1 and the black to the - post on battery 2. If I were going to run the lights quite a bit it would put more drain on those 2 batteries but as little as I will run them I am sure it will make no difference. That being said, I will still probably get a reducer pretty soon.
Ok...I understand where you ran the wires to but at the risk of beating a dead horse did the red and black come from the + and - sides of the fuse blk behind the dash?

Then you wired the lights from the fuse blk right?

Don't mean to be so specific...just don't want to burn any wires

Scott
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Unread 04-28-2013, 09:33 PM   #35
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

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Ok...I understand where you ran the wires to but at the risk of beating a dead horse did the red and black come from the + and - sides of the fuse blk behind the dash?

Then you wired the lights from the fuse blk right?

Don't mean to be so specific...just don't want to burn any wires

Scott
The light kit came with a harness, I wired it directly to the batteries. Don't know what else to say.
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Unread 04-28-2013, 09:38 PM   #36
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

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Originally Posted by sch151 View Post
Ok...I understand where you ran the wires to but at the risk of beating a dead horse did the red and black come from the + and - sides of the fuse blk behind the dash?

Then you wired the lights from the fuse blk right?

Don't mean to be so specific...just don't want to burn any wires

Scott
There is no fuse block involved, you don't need one.
If you don't plan on using the lights very often , hook them up to the first two batts, giving them 16v.
If you do plan on using them often, get a 48-12 reducer to bring down the whole pack and not just 2 batts.
There is no need for a fuse block...
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Unread 05-01-2013, 04:06 PM   #37
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Default Re: Bringing 81 DS Back To Life

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Originally Posted by jakesnake27 View Post
There is no fuse block involved, you don't need one.
If you don't plan on using the lights very often , hook them up to the first two batts, giving them 16v.
If you do plan on using them often, get a 48-12 reducer to bring down the whole pack and not just 2 batts.
There is no need for a fuse block...
Thanks for chiming in...I didn't realize KtownCC had used a 'light kit'. My 84 has a fuse block behind the dash with the + (red powering the fuses) coming from one battery and the - (blk grounding the fuse block) coming from another. The headlights are wired from this fuse block with the + coming from the hot side of the fuse and the - coming from terminals on the block (grounded by the blk to one of the batteries).

I'm just looking for opinions if this will work correctly or not.

Thanks guys for your patience and understanding.
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