Carryall Turf 2 no go!!!!

SC Carts

This is why we specialize in Precedents these older style carts drive us nuts!

Cart:

2003 Carryall Turf 2 48 volt with the forward and reverse handle on the body under the drivers knee.

Problem:

Cart will no go in forward or reverse, solenoid clicks when pedal is depressed.

Things we have done:

Jacked up the cart, changed the controller 3 times (1 original and 2 used ones that came out of working carts)

Changed the solenoid

Changed the OBC

Cleaned all the F/R switch

Brand new batteries are installed, with brand new cables.

We have 50 volts on both sides of the solenoid, we jumped the solenoid and nothing....

We tried two other MCOR's, the only thing that was a bit odd with this unit was that the MCOR wires were cut off as if someone needed the plug ends, so we re wired new plug ends on the cut wires (obviously with the correct colors) when we activate the pedal the solenoid is clicking.

When we put our voltmeter on the negative terminal of the last battery and put the positive on the A1 we get 48 volts, with no key on and the F/R in neutral is this normal?

Where to look now? Could it be the motor... we have yet to have a motor fail but where else do we look???

Once we get this complete we can go back to working on our adored Precedents, PLEAAAASE HELP

BGW

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SC Carts

Just changed the motor with another used one that we know works and that has not solved (as we suspected)

Interesting thing we found is that when you put the F/R switch in reverse the beeper doesn't come on, however when you put the F/R switch in neutral and pull up on the micro switch the beeper will sound, but as soon as you turn the F/R switch to reverse or forward the beeper goes out, even if you continue to manually hold the micro switch up, as soon as it goes back to neutral the beeper sounds (so long as you are holding up the micro switch???

kramsee1957

Sounds very familiar problem to mine. My problem was the settings for full on and full off on the potentiometer arm settings. On my 94 cc they have to be spot on or some built in safety factor stops the motor from responding.

See my thread, about two threads down from yours.

TahoeDawgZ71

Unplug the yellow wire and the green wire from the blade terminals on the controller. Insert multimeter probes into the end of the wire connectors, polarity is not important. Set meter to monitor for ohms. You are looking for around 6100 ohms at pedal up to around 1100ohms at the floor. This will confirm that you are getting throttle signal to the controller. Also, make sure you're getting voltage to the red wire (blade terminal as well) when the solenoid switch clicks. The solenoid coil circuit and this wire should work with each other and power up as soon as the pedal is depressed. Pull the wire off of the controller. Insert positive lead of multimeter and put negative lead on the B- post of the controller. Put car in forward and turn keyswitch on. Depress pedal. You should see battery voltage. Let me know what you find.

SC Carts

Thanks for the response, the only issue is this cart doesn't have a potentiometer on it...

And we have tried several MCOR's. It's very frustrating.

TahoeDawgZ71

The MCOR is a potentiometer...

SC Carts

Ok we are on this right now! Be back shortly.

SC Carts

I am getting a sorts of sporadic readings? Maybe just a crappy voltmeter, my good one is at the other shop.

So you think the fact that the wiring harness was cut could be the issue. I know we had issues with a precedent when it had the incorrect wiring harness in it because it didn't have the proper resistance, could this be the case. Or what do you think?

kramsee1957

sorry when I referred to " potentiometer " in both my reply and in my thread,.....I meant the v-glide

sorry for any confusion

SC Carts

No worries! I appreciate any feedback! Still trying to get this thing to run as we speak!