2009 Precedent front steering

trigger1937

Hi Guys,... It has been awhile since I last asked for help because you helped me to fix all the other problems. I finally gave up on the 12V batts and put in 6-8volt Trojans. I think the controller in this cart is capable of charging the 6 pack or the 4 pack just as well. Anyway, the dealer said my part number was ok and didn't need a new controller.

I've just about finished the break in period. Anyway,..I bought a new set of tires from Sam's club alrealdy mounted on new rims. It was a great deal. When I replaced the front tires I noticed the wheel on the passenger side could "Wobble" back and forth about 2-3". The one on the drivers side would only move about 1/2"-3/4". Both lock nuts on the bearings were tight so the "PLAY" must be in the tie rods. This is an area I have never worked on and know nothing about. Also the shocks look as if they are covered in grease and dirt. What is the right thing to do and where do I get the parts. I have noticed before that as I drive down the road the right front tire has a tendancy to yank the steering to the right if I run over anything that is not flat. Hope you can help.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

LJ12530

Service Manual:.......2009 Precedent

NOTE: The front wheel bearings are pressed into the spindle and are not serviceable. If excessive free-play is detected the entire hub should be replaced.

FRONT WHEEL FREE PLAY INSPECTION

1. and 2. are the safety stuff, and tell you to raise the front of the vehicle.....

3. Use your hands to attempt to rock the wheel and hub assembly back and forth on the spindle. Movement of the wheel and hub on the spindle indicates that the hub bearing is worn; therefore, the hub assembly must be replaced.

On a personal note. I fixed a cart where the front leaf spring was rubbing the inside of the front tire. I thought it was a hub assembly, but it turns out that the bushings that fit into the ends of the spring were shot. When I removed the bolt the bushings fell to pieces. Replacing them fixed the problem.

trigger1937

Thanks for the notes. For a more detailed inspection I am going to try and move the front hub from side to side and see if the movement is only in the hub and nothing else, such as the spindle or tie rods. Any additional suggestions to tie this down. Also,..is there a way I can test the front and rear shocks to see if they are worn or have leaks so much as to be ineffective?

LJ12530

Regarding the shocks. Check the seal where the strut goes into the shock. There should not be any oil leakage there.

I don't think that the fact that the lock nuts on the hub are tight eliminates the hub bearing from being the problem. If it were a bad bearing the problem would be inside the hub and would result in noise and/or too much free play in the hub.

Before you decide the hub is the problem remove/inspect the bushings/steel sleeve that fits into the leaf spring eyes. Easy job if you use a floor jack to take the pressure off of the spring. From the outside the bushing would look ok. When you remove it don't be surprised if it comes out in pieces. If you check around you will find articles talking about the bushings being upgraded to urethane due to problems with the original design. I think the old ones are black and the upgraded one is grey.

trigger1937

Thanks for the info. I do have a floor jack and stands and they always come in handy. Just when I get set to work on one thing,..something else breaks. I put new tires on the cart and I'm amazed how much faster it goes and how much better the ride is. Now my old brake problem is back. A year ago the shoes where sticking to the back plate and instead of shelf adjusting they would just lock to one side so that when you step on the brake petal you would get a pulsing action. I had ClubCar service them and grease the back side of the shoe but it is back again.

LJ12530

Have you checked this?

If your brake cables have been tightened up previously, loosen the cables under the car just enough that you know that the rear brake levers (which the cables pull on at the rear wheels) are able to return completely to their rear most position. If the cables and the rear brake levers won’t return to the rear most position on their own, the cable may me corroded or worn and should be replaced.

hurstml

When looking at the front of the cart are the bottom of the tires cambered out or do the tires "lean in" at the top?

I had this issue on my 2007 Precedent and talked with enough people to figure out the front wheel bearings were bad. They are pressed into the spindle and are not serviceable so I found a local guy who was selling fixed up and lifted carts on craigslist and called him and bought a complete 2010 front end from him for $40 this fixed my issue.

Attached Images

	Front End (2).jpg (71.8 KB, 0 views)
	Front End (1).jpg (256.3 KB, 0 views)

LJ12530

The top is supposed to lean out the same amount on both tires. Eccentric bolt adjustment in the center of the leaf spring is the only adjustment. Toe-in can also be adjusted and make a big difference on tire wear.

LJ12530

hurstml....you are a far more adventurous/accomplished than I. I limit myself to simple projects. I fear a project like yours is more than I would tackle.

trigger1937

Hurstml,...Great pictures. I can't believe you could get the entire front end for that amount. Can you send me a link and descripe what parts are in the kit. I love the pictures of your cart. That looks like aged Burgandy,... sweet. I did my cart in "Butter Yellow. I wanted "Fire Engine Yellow" but couldn't get the old lady to bite on that one. Anyway I have had dozens of great comments from people in our Golf Club as it is the ONLY cart hear that is yellow.

I'll get back to you on the "lean" of the tires.