why would a motor blow a controller

CartTrader

Purchase a used Plum Quick Bandit. Previous owner stated that "while driving heard a sizzle type noise and Cart stopped. Thinking it was the motor and wanting a higher torque motor anyway purchased a D&D motor only to find it was the controller that was bad." So that being said, I too thought it was his controller that went bad and bought the motor. Installed it in my cart. First test run...cart moves maybe 1/2 inch and stops. Smell burning wires or similar. shut everything off, recheck all connections. Check for proper motor wiring, all good no melted or hot wires anywhere. Now all I get is a solenoid clicking. Nothing else. Blew MY controller!! WHY? Motor turns free and easy!! The guy had wanted me to tell him if the motor worked or not even though I bought it as is, no warranty. He is a standup guy and refunds my money. Surprise!! And THANKS!!! By the way he is one of our members!! Now anyone now why it would blow a controller? Thanks!!


CartTrader

BGW

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Sergio

Is it possible that the Field Coil is open in the Motor?
There would be no magnetic field so the motor would not turn and it would be like a stall/short condition with high current demand from the controller.
Did you put an ohmmeter to the Field coils?

scottyb

FYI the new line up Alltrax controls have output side polarity protection to prevent just this type of problem. Series cart controllers available only at this time.

Volt_Ampere

Shorted armature or open field can blow a controller.

Volt_Ampere

Field could also be shorted or shorted to Armature

CartTrader

How would I go about checking these conditions that are presented here to find out what is wrong with motor? I did the motor test that was told on here..shorting A1 to F1 and A2 to F2 then applying power to A1 and A2. Motor turned but VERY slow @ 24v. By the way after reinstalling the old motor the solenoid no longer clicks when go pedal is pressed. Just so you now it is a SEPEX system.

Sergio

The test you did with the motor in the cart, putting the coils in parallel, should have eliminated all of the conditions mentioned(unless you have some fancy compound motor...).
The shunt motor would run very slow at 24 volts, that should be normal.
To perform some bench testing:
Put your multimeter in a low ohms setting and test the following:
A1-A2 = low resistance.
F1-F2 = low resistance but it should be more than A1-A2
A1-F1 = open or infinite resistance.
A1-motor body = open or infinite resistance.
F1-motor body = open or infinite resistance.

CRK

Wow nice of the guy to refund your money!

CartTrader

Yes it was VERY nice of him!! And unexpected!! Lets me know the QUALITY of people we have on here!!

CartTrader

Sergio

I guess the only thing that cannot be tested by these procedures is a short in the motor coils due to insulation melting.
For future reference, does anyone know an approximate cost range to have a motor shop test the coils on a growler?