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Unread 07-01-2013, 07:53 PM   #11
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Default Re: Battery cable

these batteries have both but I still wouldn't use those style ends and most terminals are a 5/16 thread

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Unread 07-01-2013, 07:58 PM   #12
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Default Re: Battery cable

My marine style deep cycle optimas have both. Of course they are for my boat and I use the auto style for the starter cables as there are some big bursts going through those cables, but I don't think there would be any real benefit to using them in a golf cart. Golf cart bats are not designed for large cranking amps anyway.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 09:39 PM   #13
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Default Re: Battery cable

Some Crown batts used both, I always thought they were a work area hazard. If you melt down a post they are a handy alternative.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 10:29 PM   #14
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Default Re: Battery cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swan View Post
these batteries have both …
Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn’t intended to post further to this thread, I learned long ago I can only educate the willing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swan View Post
... but I still wouldn't use those style ends ...
Any reason for that other than because of what your cart came with to cut manufacturing costs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedchaser View Post
... but I don't think there would be any real benefit to using them in a golf cart.
Two reasons are:
1 – reduced resistance from larger connection area
2 – helps prevent oxidation because of tighter connection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedchaser View Post
Golf cart bats are not designed for large cranking amps anyway.
Here is a DieHard Gold Automotive Battery Group Size 24F with 700 Cold Cranking Amps
Midway down on this page is Pkg C74 "This 700 amp control has a peak output of 800 amps."

Sorry for bothering you with my silly suggestions. I purposely started a new thread rather than to post to shaffer’s battery cable thread so he could ignore my comments if he chose to do so. I just thought some might benefit from what I have learned in my years electrical experience.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 10:54 PM   #15
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Default Re: Battery cable

Sometimes keeping an open mind will help you learn more because from what I have read here and on other threads we could all be better informed.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 11:56 PM   #16
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Doodles I posted to get comments so no worries my expertise is in medicine and people def not working on golf carts so post away have no fear I asked about 1/0 but the people I'm buying cables from steered me away. From the size due to the overkill for MY cart I only have a 500 amp peaking at 575 so the #2 is more than enough for me but through them not much of a cost difference
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Unread 07-02-2013, 01:59 AM   #17
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Default Re: Battery cable

I read the original poster wants no conflicting comments so he can stop reading here. The rest of this post is for the general population.
The link above is to a car battery, not a golf cart battery. There are real physical differences in plate structure of a battery designed for starting engines and a battery designed for running an electric vehicle.
Please people, do not use automotive batteries for electric carts. They will fail miserably at the task. DC electronics are a science different from automotive or household electronics. Lots of times we hear people say they are electrical experts. That may be true in their field, but they just are not familiar with the workings of a DC drive system. I hope this helps somebody avoid a problem.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 07:59 PM   #18
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Default Re: Battery cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaffer88 View Post
Doodles I posted to get comments so no worries …
No problems here. I have no objections to you doing what feels right for you. As I said, I started a new thread so as not to seem to shove the idea at you on your thread.



Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
I read the original poster wants no conflicting comments so he can stop reading here.
What I have a problem with is conjecture, statements resulting from poor observations and/or faulty logic, not unlike yours above. It is a tool of the trade for sales people, particularly those selling snake oil.

One person states, “… I still wouldn't use those style ends …” I ask why and suggest it may be because that’s not what the cart came with. I find it interesting that people can be unwilling to upgrade to a different style electrical connector they can see but have no hesitation changing to a different controller that they know absolutely nothing about other than the sales hype.

Conversely, some feel any change from factory is an upgrade. Kinda the mentality of the custom cars of the ’60. If it’s got, it take it off. If it ain’t got it, put one on. Even if it had no purpose or function like fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror or dummy (non-functioning) teardrop spotlights (but a chopped ’49 Merc. doesn’t seem complete without ‘em).





Another person makes the claim , “They always work themselves loose!”, about the post clamp terminal I showed. I’ve seen people install them with a hammer, I have seen neg clamp on pos post and pos clamp on a neg post. Yes they will work themselves loose if improperly installed. There is a puller available to remove the ones installed correctly. It’s a tapered post with a bolt clamp. The pinion gear on the traction motor of diesel locomotives is just a gear with a tapered hole fit onto a tapered shaft, no key, no spline.

You claim, “I always thought they were a work area hazard”, but give no explanation.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
The link above is to a car battery, not a golf cart battery. There are real physical differences in plate structure of a battery designed for starting engines and a battery designed for running an electric vehicle.
Please people, do not use automotive batteries for electric carts. They will fail miserably at the task.
I’m afraid you missed the point entirely on that one.

Speedchaser said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedchaser View Post
My marine style deep cycle optimas have both. Of course they are for my boat and I use the auto style for the starter cables as there are some big bursts going through those cables, but I don't think there would be any real benefit to using them in a golf cart. Golf cart bats are not designed for large cranking amps anyway.
I interpreted his statements to claim automotive batteries produce higher current than golf cart batteries.

I quoted him for clarity:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedchaser View Post
Golf cart bats are not designed for large cranking amps anyway.
and provided a link to a quality automotive battery claiming a capability of 700 cold cranking amps and a link to a 700 amp controller on one of your pages claiming a peak output current of 800 amp. Since it is stated as a peak output current rather than a current limit, like a fuse or circuit breaker, I assumed the 800 amps was attainable, demonstrating that since the controller had no where other than the batteries to get that 800amp current, and since that current was greater than the max cold cranking limit of the automotive battery, the golf cart batteries could provide higher current than the automotive battery. Something I already knew.

I in NO WAY was suggesting using automotive batteries in a golf cart.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
Lots of times we hear people say they are electrical experts.
Stay away from them, there is far too much in the field of electricity for any one person to comprehend.



Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
... but they just are not familiar with the workings of a DC drive system.
Whoa down there. We ain’t even gotten to anything concerning a drive system. I was just suggesting how to provide power to a system with minimal loss of power to voltage drop. Connections, wire and resistance are the same AC or DC, switches aren’t though.


As for the “not familiar”, if it will appease you, I have some familiarity with DC drives.

Rock Island railroad: Electrician on diesel locomotives. A huge DC main generator, coupled to a diesel engine, produces electrical power for the traction motors on the wheel sets.

General Motors Leed’s Assembly Plant: Electrician, worked in 2 control rooms. All production speed conveyors were DC. Multiple drives conveyors. Compound motors, Selysen speed/position control.

Midwest Conveyor: Electrical engineer, project at the Newark, DE Chrysler DC conveyors with compound motors and solid state controllers. Training from a Louis Allis.

Automatic Systems: Electrical engineer, project Wilmington, DE GM plant. DC conveyors with compound motors and solid state controllers. Synchronized systems. More training by Louis Allis.

Automatic Systems: Electrical engineer, project Fairfax, KS GM plant, DC and variable freq AC conveyors, solid state controllers and compound DC motors. Multi drive conveyors and synchronized systems. Schooling at Reliance, DC and variable freq AC drive controller course and on site field training.

Electrical engineering degree University of Kansas.

I’m not an expert but I might qualify as “familiar”.


I’ve been trying to learn about golf cart controllers. As near as I can determine, they use a simple chopper circuit, same as better model train controllers and static drives, varying the pulse width to control speed.

I was a little disappointed, I was expecting a little more sophistication. Those railroad diesel engines start out with the motor fields and armature in series for power then perform a transition to parallel. After that the parallel field current is reduced in steps to provide more and more speed. Total of 16 steps transition in all. I wasn’t necessarily expecting something this complex for a golf cart speed controller but I expected more than a computer controlled chopper circuit.

It would be simple to shunt across the field windings, reducing their current. The parallel circuit produces less resistance than the fields alone. The voltage is divided with more for the armature. Higher armature voltage and lower field flux makes the cart run faster. This may all be impractical as I’m finding that over a given speed, golf carts become a different class of vehicle and have to meet higher federal safety regulations.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 08:30 PM   #19
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Default Re: Battery cable

Yikes. Have a beer
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Unread 07-03-2013, 08:37 PM   #20
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Default Re: Battery cable

maybe a new soap box
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