Had a major meltdown with my 2002 carryall 1

Revtodd44

Hello here is my story, I bought a 2002 club car carryall that had no batteries, I purchased new batteries and wired them in series according to the wiring diagram I found on this forum, when I hooked up the battery pack the forward reverse switch started beeping even in neutral and the motor wouldnt engage no matter how i turned it so I unhooked the pack inspected the f&r switch found it to be melted in several places so I installed a brand new one. Hooked up the battery pack, turned key pressed accelerator and it just clicked at first like a dead battery on a car then a loud bang and motor started turning , I think in reverse but I'm not sure because as it turned it growled became faster and faster, I turned off key it didn't stop I threw f&r in neutral it didn't stop then the end blew off the controller fire started flaming out of it so I immediately grabbed a wrench to unhook battery pack (can anyone say alligator clip would have been better for testing purposes !! Lol) by the time I got it unhooked many of the series cables were melted, I have now replaced controller, F&r switch was not effected at all, replaced all cables battery pack is full charge and holding but nothing happens with key on in forward or reverse with pedal depressed, I know I've done great damage but I don't even know where to start, can someone help, it would have almost been funny if it weren't so expensive, sorry for long post but I thought you needed the whole story to know where to start , thanks for any help you can give

BGW

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crash test dummy

welcome to BGW

sorry for your problems ..

will need to know model and volts

first re check ALL wires .. do a continuity test to make sure none are bad .. then recheck how it is wired .. make sure all connections are good
btw ... jack up rear when testing

Revtodd44

Yes thank you, I made sure I put the cart up on blocks the first time thank God or it would have shot thru the garage wall and out thru the woods!!! lol im not even gonna put the wheels back on it until i get it all running well but I will start running down the wires right away, also this is a 3.75 hp 48 volt 6/8 v battery system

crash test dummy

is this the diagram you are useing ?

Dav1774

You may have a bad solenoid as well.

Revtodd44

Yes that's the diagram and I'm thinking your right on the noid I saw a YouTube video on how to check to see if its good is this possible without taking it off and taking to someone thanks

kgsc

You may want to go pick up a 250 amp fuse at your local car stereo place as well. If it were in there it may have gone before the rest did. Should be under $15

Revtodd44

Ok will do thanks a bunch

Revtodd44

A new development , I decided to test my solenoid to make sure it was good so I read 5 or 6 post about testing them and it seemed the most simple way was to use a 6 gauge wire to bridge the two large terminals on the solenoid , I didn't put the wire on with the nuts but I simply held it on the one post and just tapped the other large post and it LITTERALLY melted the end of the wire off and sparks flew like an arc welder an I only tapped the other post, now I'm not claiming to be the sharpest tool in the shed BUT THAT HAS TO BE A DIRECT SHORT OF SOMEKIND RIGHT???? Am I testing it wrong or is something shorted out in my solenoid or shorted somewhere else, I have checked and rechecked the wiring diagram and I have the bat pack wired accordingly so I DON'T GET IT! Any help would be appreciated thanks